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Lapwing 16 Build


Murray

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Sanded myself to a standstill today, 80 grit, 120 - back to 80 grit. I love sanding - it brings out the black humour; "I haven't had so much fun since... " ...put in your own line. The wardrobe knobs on the long board have taught my hands a new resting position... And at the end of the day, the obvious becomes obvious; do the edges first before tackling any of the high bits on your planks - once the edges are (sort of) straight, the highs and lows are a little different...

 

Still, I think I think I got the stern half of the starboard side half way there. plenty of time for the black humour left...!

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 6/15/2021 at 5:34 PM, Peter Batchelor said:

Looking great Murray!

Are you planning on a clear finish?

Peter

I was thinking of it, but after many an hour looking at it, I decided it wasn't as fair as I'd like, so I've put rather a lot of filler to build some bits up a little. It looks better, I think, but after a while I find bits that I thought were low, might now actually be a little high. I'm confusing myself I guess. So to answer your question, no, since there is 410 filler in places,  I think I'll either go with an off white / grey, with clear topsides.

 

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On 10/16/2020 at 7:14 AM, Hirilonde said:

You're cruising.

 

I made u shaped clamps out of plywood and shims to tighten them for the planking laps.  Your screw/pad idea seems to work well also.

 

Snazzy router sled for making the gain rabbits.  I did mine by hand with a rabbit plane. This detail is so important. getting each plank lap to go flush for the last inch or so looks so cool later when all are done. I used a block plane for the varying bevel on the plank being lapped.  This detail is important to keep the lap thickness consistent.

 

After each pair of planks make sure to step back and view the boat from all angles.  It is easy to get something unfair when you are on top of the work.

 

String, plumb bob, levels, you can't check details like the stem too often. You seem quite on top of this.

 

I finished my Lapwing over 5 years ago and this is the next one to document here.  Bringing back memories of the build.

Dave I see in your build, you have a batten running under the top plank - or perhaps along the bottom edge of the 87th plank - like a lower gunwale. At what point did you put this on and is it just glued? Certainly helps clean up any wobble in the plank.

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That trim piece/batten is a thin version of the rub rail and it is glued onto and flush with the bottom edge of the shear plank. Both the rub rail and this trim piece (I know of no name for it) are Teak. The two, frame the plank and add some pzazz the the look of the hull IMO. Tom Lathrop, who conceived of the Lapwing did this and also painted the shear strake green. I have been debating the idea of painting my shear strake a dark blue green myself since I built the boat. But there is just something about white and varnish that is complete as is.

 

I glued the trim piece and the rub rail on after the planking was sanded and ready for paint.  I varnished both first, allowing a little varnish to be feathered onto the hull.  Then I masked the Teak and primed and painted the boat. It is a tedious detail to make and maintain, but I like it.

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  • 2 months later...

I've been plodding along - very slowly I might add. Two coats of epoxy on the hull, now sanded ready for a final coat - with just a couple of little dents to fill first. Fillets done so nearing the end of hull prep. I finally found a steamer (covid delay) so I'll make up a steam box and steam the false stem. When fitted, final coat of epoxy then paint. I wasn't going to, but I might clear finish the transom - there are a couple of filler lines when the timber was damaged, but it's still a nice piece of ply.  I have had the boat t'other way up - just to see how it looked - y'know sitting with a pretend tiller in my hand, faraway look in the eyes... Dreamer. While right way up, I filleted all the planks internally although they are still to be sanded...

 

 

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12 hours ago, Murray said:

 I'll make up a steam box and steam the false stem. 

Why? Just cope one out, use 2 pieces if you have to and scarf together.  It is just decoration and maybe a bumper, depending on how you sail. Almost all stems, even in the day, were cut on band saws.

 

I would varnish the tramsom.  Actually, I did, but mine was Sapele though.  You can always sand and paint if you don't like it. Flat surfaces at least are easy.

 

Looking good.

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On 9/22/2021 at 4:52 AM, Hirilonde said:

Why? Just cope one out, use 2 pieces if you have to and scarf together.  It is just decoration and maybe a bumper, depending on how you sail. Almost all stems, even in the day, were cut on band saws.

 

I would varnish the tramsom.  Actually, I did, but mine was Sapele though.  You can always sand and paint if you don't like it. Flat surfaces at least are easy.

 

Looking good.

I like they way you ask good questions of us Dave. Why steam? Well I don't have access to a band saw, nor actually a coping saw, although they are pretty cheap so not a reason. The simple answer is, I want to. And in the process, I'll get some experience for when I need to steam some of the decorative trim which I'll make in Jarrah. I tried to bend some Jarrah for the rub rail - early lesson; it doesn't bend.  

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A couple of shots of the false stem. Occurs to me that the laminated stem will be immensely strong, adding the the stiffness fo the boat. Still I was surprised at the amount of time it's taken so far to finish it - still needs a little more filleting. However we are close now to putting on the final layer of epoxy. After that I think I'll put one or two coats of white paint on, putting the final two coats after turning the boat over and finishing the topsides. excuse the knobbly knees...IMG_7947.thumb.jpeg.f4d001a2094fe3a2983b7d4bdc8a1754.jpeg

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Compared to stitch'n'glue the Lapwing sure is a tedious hull to build. The effort will be worth it when painted.  I don't know that the false stem adds any real stiffness to the hull, but it is a bumper, especially if a metal chafe strip extends from the bottom up the curve of the stem.  Just make sure to form the bend before you drill the screw holes, to maintain a nice fair curve.

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On 10/6/2021 at 11:54 PM, Hirilonde said:

Compared to stitch'n'glue the Lapwing sure is a tedious hull to build. The effort will be worth it when painted.  I don't know that the false stem adds any real stiffness to the hull, but it is a bumper, especially if a metal chafe strip extends from the bottom up the curve of the stem.  Just make sure to form the bend before you drill the screw holes, to maintain a nice fair curve.

bend the strip first - excellent piece off advice - i wouldn't have thought of that...

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On 9/23/2021 at 12:24 AM, Don Silsbe said:

After you apply primer, a whole new crop of surface undulations will appear.  But these will be your last.  Press on!

I just applied a coat of epoxy - see pics - yes - you are right - a few more undulations. Hard to know where to stop really....

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So I think I have pretty much got the exterior of the hull as good as I am prepared to go. Seems you could go on forever, but there are fair winds coming, and I want to catch a few of them while there is life in the limbs. And get some fresh air in the lungs rather than epoxy fumes!IMG_8020.thumb.jpeg.59fd3bde1bb981e4645ca0eef8cbf295.jpeg

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I'll start with a coat of paint this Friday - see if Don is right - too many more undulations that i can't just ignore them! Really looking forward to turn the beastie over and starting too put some more wood in.... Thanks guys for the comments - advice gratefully received. 

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