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Spindrift 12 #1275 - Attaching the Bow Eye


J. Cote

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The plans say to use 2 layers of fiberglass tape.  But I'm not sure of the layering order of the bow eye plates, block, fiberglass & fillet.  Below are the plans & a sketch of my "guesstimate" of the layering order (glass tape on fillet as usual for a seam, then the block & then the second glass tape over the block).    Any words of wisdom from the pros?

Bow Eye layering.jpg

Bow Eye.jpg

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With your stem taped inside and outside you don't need anymore glass tape there. Glassing the top of the backing block on the other hand provides additional compressive strength and ensures water resistance. Lapping that glass onto the ply of the hull helps distribute the stress load. Moisture ingress is a potential problem here. Drilling oversize holes and making epoxy bushings before putting the eye in is an excellent solution. PeterP

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15 hours ago, PeterP said:

With your stem taped inside and outside you don't need anymore glass tape there. Glassing the top of the backing block on the other hand provides additional compressive strength and ensures water resistance. Lapping that glass onto the ply of the hull helps distribute the stress load. Moisture ingress is a potential problem here. Drilling oversize holes and making epoxy bushings before putting the eye in is an excellent solution. PeterP

Thanks Peter.  Since the eye doesn't screw in, do I fill the oversized hole with epoxy while installing the eye so that it cures around it & in the threads between the two plates?

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12 hours ago, Hirilonde said:

I just drilled a hole through the bow just below the breast plate and epoxied it like the rest of the boat.  No hardware at all.

I'm not sure I understand this one Hirilonde. Did you epoxy seal a "through hole" for a rope to feed through? If so, that's a pretty a cool idea...

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J

  I am by no means a pro but the process of installing my bow eye or any other bolt or screw are to use a non hardening bedding compound, for bolts I drill the hole slightly oversized to allow the compound to fill the void, with screws drill your pilot hole screw in your screw dry remove fill the hole with compound also apply compound to the part to be installed and a little on the screw and install and you should have a little squeeze out. This should prevent any water intrusion and if you should need to make a repair at a latter time it will make it easier to remove the faster.

9DCB6FA4-55BE-448B-860B-AA6F8CBC6B19.jpeg

7643517F-CCB2-4AEF-BFCC-A19C93AA07AF.jpeg

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Mark just beat me to it. His is a good way of doing it. Your thinking of epoxying the eye in works but if you need to take that thing out later  it'll be work. Making the epoxy bushing takes time upfront because have to drill the same hole twice. In fact if you aren't careful and let your drill bit wander you could be drilling that final whole more than once. I have done that. PeterP

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4 hours ago, Mark Rendelman said:

J

  I am by no means a pro but the process of installing my bow eye or any other bolt or screw are to use a non hardening bedding compound, for bolts I drill the hole slightly oversized to allow the compound to fill the void, with screws drill your pilot hole screw in your screw dry remove fill the hole with compound also apply compound to the part to be installed and a little on the screw and install and you should have a little squeeze out. This should prevent any water intrusion and if you should need to make a repair at a latter time it will make it easier to remove the faster.

9DCB6FA4-55BE-448B-860B-AA6F8CBC6B19.jpeg

7643517F-CCB2-4AEF-BFCC-A19C93AA07AF.jpeg

 

Thanks Mark.  I think your approach is going to be the one I use.  Thanks for the photos. It really helps me understand it.

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2 hours ago, HighDesert said:

J, thanks for asking the question and you other guys for the guidance.  I was just pondering the same task myself.  What is the preferred non hardening bedding compound?

The compound recommended to me was "Boat life bedding compound".  It has poly-sulfide as the ingredient.

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Page 136 of "the book" covers bonding fasteners and resin bushing holes.

https://www.westsystem.com/wp-content/uploads/GougeonBook-061205-1.pdf

An excellent practice for all hardware on a wood boat. If all bolts and screws are drilled, filled, and drilled then all the better for preventing water from getting to the wood and causing swelling which will crack an epoxy joint in no time. Especially watch out for fasteners into long pieces of solid wood such as the transom beam. 

 

For bedding compound I use butyl rubber and make a little doughnut of it around the washer of my fastener or on the contact pad of the piece of hardware. It oozes out nicely, seals the joint and does not harden. Same stuff they used to install windows in RVs. This much would least you for years and years. Store it in a plastic bag because it does dry out a little after the first year or so (like play dough). 

https://www.amazon.com/White-Butyl-Tape-Mobile-Single/dp/B07BJLHH24/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=butyl+tape&qid=1593041102&sr=8-5

 

They also make a butyl rubber caulk which is more pasty for bedding things with more surface area where the tape which is more or a soft pliable rubber would be too stiff to be squeezed by the fasteners. So for something like the Eye bolt I'd use butyl rubber or nothing because it would only leak into the anchor well or onto the deck so it doesn't really need to be watertight. 

 

Also be very careful when installing hardware not to crank down mindlessly on the nut our you will simply crush the wood and and thus crack the epoxy seal. I try to never use power drivers to install fasteners to the final tightness because it's so easy to over torque them. 

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On 6/23/2020 at 10:12 AM, J. Cote said:

I'm not sure I understand this one Hirilonde. Did you epoxy seal a "through hole" for a rope to feed through? If so, that's a pretty a cool idea...

That is exactly what I did.  I didn't dream it up, I believe Graham did.  It might have actually been in the plans. I put holes through the quarter knees for the traveller as well.

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