Spindrift 10, #1329 -- "Seabiscuit" . .

[Pete McCrary]

I figure that even with the bailer 6” off the keel line, nearly all water will soon be ejected because seldom is the boat plumb upright.  Just a few weight shifts and/or sheet adjustments will slosh around the water [enough] to get the last drop out.  And with that 6” offset I need not ever have to remember to close the bailer for either launch or recovery.

 

I noticed the check-valve “flapper” (which had to be removed) when I installed a reversed bailer as a scoop to fill Chessie’s ballast tank.  I wondered how effective it was in preventing “back floe” at slow or no speed?

 

 

[Aphers]

The self bailer flap won't seal perfectly if it's been damaged in any way- in my experience you need to pull the bailer closed when below self-bailing speed, otherwise water will seep in to the boat.

[Paul356]

Aphers is right, the flap is not a positive lock, but it's still fairly good.  I think the general idea is that if you're going slow enough (light air) that you're not getting suction from the bailer, you probably don't have a boat full of water anyway, since there hasn't been enough wind to take on enough water to want to open the bailer in the first place.  I think the flap is probably there to prevent onrushing water while you're tacking, etc., if the boat slows down for a few seconds.

 

I'm sure mine is at least 6" off the center line, given the inner and outer keels and a little room for clearance of knuckles, etc.  No worries.

[Pete McCrary]

Some “fairing” advice, please.

 

I just (2pm today) spread thickened (peanut-butter stiff) fairing compound to smooth out the edges where 3” FG tape was used to strengthen joints at the keel, chines, etc.  I did this for the Two Paw 7 several years ago — but don’t remember the timing sequences.

QUESTION:  With shop temp at 65 degrees when applied and kept above 55 degrees overnight, would 10am next day be too early to sand smooth with 80 grit?  Or, should I wait another day or two?

 

[Hirilonde]

Probably, but if the paper is getting clogged/gummed up, then no 

 

[PadrePoint]

I found that timing a bit too short and gave things a little more time. I let the gumming up of sandpaper verses creating actual sanding dust to be my guide. 
I did, however, do some scraping with a chisel and/or scraper before the epoxy hardened sufficiently. That can be effective before sanding. 

[Pete McCrary]

Thanks guys.  I hadn’t thought of using the scraper.  I’ll sharpen up the scraper and use it tomorrow and give it another day to cure before using the 80 grit.

[PadrePoint]

Pete,

You’ve offered so many great ideas and innovations... it’s nice to flip a little alternative your way.  

[Aphers]

I've used chisels extensively to trim off high spots and tape edges, but you need a steady hand.

[Chick Ludwig]

These Shinto rasps are GREAT! https://www.amazon.com/Saw-File-S/dp/B001AX0X12/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3QMZNYP85WEM&dchild=1&keywords=japanese+file+rasp&qid=1616158894&sprefix=japanese+file%2Caps%2C183&sr=8-4

[Randy Marshall]

I also but a sign on the trailer winch to 'Close the Bailer!' before launching. Doh! I'd thought it would be self teaching, but I guess I'm a slow learner.

[Steve W]

3 hours ago, Chick Ludwig said:

These Shinto rasps are GREAT! https://www.amazon.com/Saw-File-S/dp/B001AX0X12/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3QMZNYP85WEM&dchild=1&keywords=japanese+file+rasp&qid=1616158894&sprefix=japanese+file%2Caps%2C183&sr=8-4

I learned from a serial boat builder (yeah, you!) about these and they are a go to tool in my shop.

[Paul356]

Another thought is to put some clear epoxy on, for smoothing.  Might be too late for that tomorrow.  If applied soon after the thickened, the clear will help smooth things out and leave less to sand.

[Pete McCrary]

Not too late for most of the job.  The first application was just for the bottom panels.  Their concave surfaces made smooth application a bit more difficult.  Today I’ll do the rest of the interior — seats sides and tops up to the gunwales.

.

QUESTION: How soon after applying the fairing compound should the clear epoxy be applied?  Before the “thin film is set”?  Immediately?

 

Thanks for the suggestion.

[Chick Ludwig]

"I also but a sign on the trailer winch to 'Close the Bailer!' before launching. Doh! I'd thought it would be self teaching, but I guess I'm a slow learner. "

YES! That's one you don't wanna learn the hard way!

 

[Paul356]

Before it's hard.  While still tacky.

 

[Pete McCrary]

I haven’t sailed Seabiscuit much — in fact, just once, at the 2020 Messabout.  However, I’ve been thinking a lot about what might be problems for a solo sailor.  Like lowering the sail as the wind starts getting out-of-hand.  Seems to me it could be a challenge: just two hands, and (skipper forward), simultaneously handling the halyard, sail (needing encouragement to come down), and zipper (unzipping).  I have some ideas on those issues, which I’ll try out in the drive way or in shallow water this spring.

 

But for now I've been concerned about a separate potential problem.  As constructed, Seabiscuit’s mast is held upright by a “step” on the keel that is about 2” deep and a 3/4” thick mast “partner” that is 13” above the step.  When sailing, the mast assembly is held firmly in its step by the downward pull of gravity AND the cleated halyard.  However, when the sail is lowered (as during the reefing process or lowering the sail altogether), the mast is held in its step by gravity alone.  Seems to me that when there is no downward pull (other than gravity), then vigorous wave-action or a knock-down could cause the mast-heel to slip out of the step.  If that were to happen, and the mast became misaligned (i. e., fell away and/or not perpendicular to its partner) — then damage to mast and/or partner is bound to occur.

 

My concept to eliminate this possibility would be a tube like used on the CS20's mizzenmast.  It could be fabricated and installed something like this:

Or, even simpler, on could drill & tap a hole thru the partner — into which a 3/8” thumbscrew could be “set” to hold the mast firmly in its partner.  Of course, to be effective the skipper or crew would have to remember to tighten the set-screw after stepping the mast.  Better not to have to remember anything.

 

Comments, suggestions welcome.

[Captain Tim]

Pete if you make a fiberglass "washer" you can put it on your mast just under the mast partner held there with the right sized hose clamp. This will keep your mast from leaving the step even if you were to turtle. Mast will also still be able to rotate.  Wax a smooth flat surface then put down 4 or 5 layers of epoxy saturated fiberglass cloth. Cut your "washer" out of this when hardened. Use a nut driver to tighten the hose clamp.

[Hirilonde]

Pete, how about a line that goes from an eye on the mast below the boom, to another eye at/on the partner.  You tie the mast to the boat. If you forget to untie it, you can't remove the mast until you do is the worst that can happen. I did this with my mizzen on my Lapwing.  The main has 3 lines coming to the deck that hold it in should I go over.

[Pete McCrary]

Had not thought of the washer idea — but I’d like something I didn’t have to think about.  Not concerned about mast rotation — a key notch in the step prevents that anyway.

 

And I’ve thought about tying the mast as Dave suggests.  But again, that’s just one more thing to remember.

 

With a tube, and the worst happens (boat “turtles”), the mast just slides out — but only so far because the vang and reefing lines are still “stop-knotted” behind their cleats.  And even if the sail is stowed and boom still hinged to the mast, the boom will be in a crutch (aft) or held up by the halyard (used as a topping lift) — and pulled down with the sheet.  Only with the mast as a bare pole would it be lost altogether.  I THINK ! ??

 

If I were in “blow” and managed to lower the sail, I wouldn’t stow it altogether, but would furl it — then try to row (or motor), and failing that, toss out the anchor (which I consider a safety item like a PFD).

 

Still considering the “tube” fix.