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Spindrift 10, #1329 -- "Seabiscuit" . .


Pete McCrary

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Joe,...  Not really sure.  Maybe a couple of reasons: just to have a clear midship thwart, or perhaps because one of B & B’s drawings showed it on the keel.  Really should have waited until after a few hours of sailing in various conditions.  But I can always relocate the cleat.  Maybe tryout both locations.

 

And I like the elliptical shape of the white oak base — plus I had a scrap piece just the right thickness.  Also, I love the conic sections upon which our plywood panels may be bent into neat boats.  
 

I especially like the ellipse which may be easily drawn.  Below is the sketch I generated for the cutout pattern.  You just hold the string firmly at each foci and (with a pencil keeping the string taut), rotate the pencil & string — marking the profile of the desired ellipse.

 

52367405-37EA-497B-980C-547C3432D534.thumb.jpeg.b7b606ae77d7f4cb351ee6d8b02c70c9.jpeg

 

Besides, I really like messing about in my shop.

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That is a cool trick.  I will make a note of it and be on the look out for a place to use it.

 

When I was deciding to build a Spindrift I spent a while debating whether to build the S10 or the S12.

I almost went with the 12 because of the extra room making sailing with a passenger more practical.

I have found that if you are moving from sailing a larger boat sailing the Spindrift takes some adjusting.

Whether you face forward or aft during a tack, how you switch the tiller and sheet in your hand and the placement of the mainsheet all needed to be coordinated. Not so much when the wind is light but more so as it picked up.

Best of luck with your adventure and thanks for all the shop tips and tricks.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Suppose you’re sailing your Spindrift 10 nicely and the wind just quits.  No problem, you think.  After all you’ve brought along a pair of oars.

 

But the boom and ferruled sail are now in the cockpit and seriously in the way.  Repurpose the halyard into a topping lift?  Yes, but to keep the boom from flopping around you sheet it in — then the sheet is in the way, hindering easy rowing.

 

So, I conceived of a “boom jack” — weighing just under a pound and easy to stow in the bottom of the cockpit.  It can hold the boom (with feruled sail) on the boat’s centerline at a height above the rower’s head, or lower, but to either side above his shoulder.

 

It’s just two sticks arranged like “scissors” and held together with a carriage bolt and wing-nut.  Here are proof of concept photos:

 

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The geometry is stable, the X of the jack held against the cheek block and fairlead near the end of the boom.  Especially when the boom is tensioned down with the sheet.  Quarter inch plywood “dogs” glued to the seats will restrain the bi-pods from slipping.

 

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Boom-jack collapsed.  Note the 2nd hole in the top leg near its center.  That is used to make the bi-pod asymmetric — holding the boom to one some or the other.  Skipper’s choice.

 

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Boom jack, stowed.

 

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Jack made to be asymmetric, showing boom to port over the rower’s right shoulder.

 

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From this perspective the boom looks close to rower’s head, but it’s actually at a comfortable distance.

 

I’ll have to wait for warm weather to try an on-the-water deployment.  Report to follow.

 

Comments and suggestions welcome.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Now that Seabiscuit’s oars are approximately 7’ and can be slipped under her midship thwart, they need to be made secure for road transport and vigorous sailing.  So I fabricated a pair of “jam cleats” (? nautical name suggestions please ?) shown here:

 

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They’re made of 1/2” maple pivoting on 5/16” carriage bolts each held in place with two 1” ss washers and a nylon lock nut.  The nuts allow adjustment “just-so” the jam cleats may be rotated outboard and under the thwart — like this:

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Notice the stowed starboard-side cleat’s foot just showing under the the thwart’s aft crossbeam.  To engage the cleat — it is simply rotated down to the oar, which is manually depressed by about 1/4” as the cleat is slipped over [it].

 

The final photo shows the oars in place (only starboard cleat engaged) with rudder/tiller assembly, CB, throw cushion, and combination paddle/boat hook — all stowed in the cockpit:

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With the oar blades flat on the cockpit’s sole, the oars are mostly out-of-the-way and could even provide some “purchase” for the crew when hiking.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 11/11/2020 at 7:40 PM, Pete McCrary said:

Today the boot got its 2nd (and) final coat of Interlux Brightside paint.  Tomorrow I’ll mask the entire boot and apply Sea Green for the bottom and White for the topsides.  Note that the color scheme will include the CB and Rudder Assembly.  But the rudder itself will be left showing its last coat of neat epoxy.

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There will be a line painted on the CB so as to show (above its trunk) when the end of the CB is positioned just at the keel.

 

Below are a few pixs showing a nuisance problem when transporting the mast with the tubes nested within each next-bigger tube.

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Notice that on the mis-sized tube there are smudge marks at a few places along its length.  These are caused by the outside of the smaller tube being jostled and rubbed against the inside of the (unfinished aluminum) larger tube.  That’s dirty aluminum oxide residue transferred to the nicely finished outside of the smaller tube.  There’s only a 3/16” separation of the surfaces.

 

Notice that there aren’t any such smudges on the smallest tube.  That’s probably because there’s 3/8” separation of the surfaces — twice that of the other tubes.C7508562-4006-4C29-BD33-59095EF846B4.thumb.jpeg.2f9fafa47cd6ae7e28505e1ba53f677b.jpeg

Here the tubes are assembled for transport.  The largest tube is to the right — and the mid-sized tube has been inserted from the left.  It doesn’t go all the way in (up to its stop-collar) because it has (within it) the smallest tube — and its stop-collar keeps if from being fully inserted.

 

My solution will be to fabricate 1” FG-tape bushings at each of the two smaller tubes of only 3 or 4 wraps (~ 3/64” thickness, an OD increase of 3/32”) and sand them smooth with tapered edges.  They will be a loose fit so as not to impede their “nesting,” but will create a very thin tube a air between the inner and outer surfaces of the nesting tubes.  The pixs below show the locations (blue masking tape) of the 4 loose-fitting bushings.

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The largest diameter tube is at the top.

 

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Comments and suggestions are invtied and welcome.  It’s an off-season project — so I won’t be doing it right away.

 

Hi Pete,  I like your mast for transport. My question is: How do you make your bushings so the tubes can separate? Do you slightly overwrap them with FG/epoxy & let them cure separately? Then sand them to a snug fit? I assume that if I make the bushings & insert 'tube in tube' while wet (like Alan's CS video), it will cure permanently fused.  This is my first mast so I'm not sure of myself.  Thanks.

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There are 2 major steps in making sectional masts that come apart, the bushings and the tapered transitions that act as stops and to smooth from one section to the next. I hate sanding. I built up my busings in steps until they were just a tad snug, then sanded to a very close but not snug fit. Then I dry fitted the pieces to the depthth called for and built the tapers out of tape, resin and filler. The whole thing is rather "fiddly".

 

Left shows piece that fits into the step and keeps mast from rotating.

Center shows section 2 that fits into the top of left section.

Right shows the wooden section that fits into middle.

1750240680_Wingeinyard006.thumb.jpg.e9e07b46ba38e753acd243e0ef282dc3.jpg

 

Middle section partially inserted into left/larger section.

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Fully inserted joint.

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I think Dave has it right.  If you want to separate the tubes for transport, you'd never insert the tubes while any epoxy is not yet cured.  Dave made his bushings one layer at a time until just a little too big, then sanded down to a proper fit for steadiness and ease of separation.

 

My procedure was to wrap (modestly tight) the smaller tube with FG tape (end secured with masking tape) until the thickness was just the ID of the bigger tube (measured with a "mic") -- then [I would] lay out the FG on bench (surface covered with packaging tape) and wet it thoroughly with epoxy.  Then lift it off the bench and wrap it (keeping it taut) on the tube.  After cure, the thickness should be slightly more (than measured) because of the epoxy.  Then sand to the fit that you want.  Worked OK for me.

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39 minutes ago, Pete McCrary said:

I think Dave has it right.  If you want to separate the tubes for transport, you'd never insert the tubes while any epoxy is not yet cured.  Dave made his bushings one layer at a time until just a little too big, then sanded down to a proper fit for steadiness and ease of separation.

 

My procedure was to wrap (modestly tight) the smaller tube with FG tape (end secured with masking tape) until the thickness was just the ID of the bigger tube (measured with a "mic") -- then [I would] lay out the FG on bench (surface covered with packaging tape) and wet it thoroughly with epoxy.  Then lift it off the bench and wrap it (keeping it taut) on the tube.  After cure, the thickness should be slightly more (than measured) because of the epoxy.  Then sand to the fit that you want.  Worked OK for me.

Thank you Pete & Hirilonde for your descriptions.     Did you pay attention to the FG thicker selvage edge?  My impulse is to position them as shown....

 

1 hour ago, Pete McCrary said:

I think Dave has it right.  If you want to separate the tubes for transport, you'd never insert the tubes while any epoxy is not yet cured.  Dave made his bushings one layer at a time until just a little too big, then sanded down to a proper fit for steadiness and ease of separation.

 

My procedure was to wrap (modestly tight) the smaller tube with FG tape (end secured with masking tape) until the thickness was just the ID of the bigger tube (measured with a "mic") -- then [I would] lay out the FG on bench (surface covered with packaging tape) and wet it thoroughly with epoxy.  Then lift it off the bench and wrap it (keeping it taut) on the tube.  After cure, the thickness should be slightly more (than measured) because of the epoxy.  Then sand to the fit that you want.  Worked OK for me.

 

IMG_1571.jpg

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9 hours ago, J. Cote said:

Thank you Pete & Hirilonde for your descriptions.     Did you pay attention to the FG thicker selvage edge?  My impulse is to position them as shown....

 

 

IMG_1571.jpg

Actually, I think I answered my own question.  I'm going to remove the thick selvage edge from the top 3" wrap so the taper is more gentle.  Thank you all for helping think this through.

 

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  • 1 month later...
On 11/7/2020 at 12:49 PM, Pete McCrary said:

Now I can “flip” Seabiscuit as well as lifting her.  Here are the photos:

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Level side-to-side.  Note wedge forcing lift-vector to starboard a little.

 

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Pretty close to level fore-to-aft.

 

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Under, looking to starboard.

 

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Looking to port.

 

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Hanging by a thread(s?).

 

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C.G. about 5” aft of CB Trunk.

 

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A loop thru a pulley.  Ready to be flipped, starboard down.  I rotated her about 45 degrees (1/4 of a half-roll) with ease — but stopped there because the cradles weren’t yet rigged for a top-down boat.

 

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Now I’ll drop her top-side-up and mark the waterline.  Then flip her for masking and painting the boot (red).  Haven’t decided whether to leave the bottom with just the AwlGrip 545 primer— or use the Interlux Sea Green that I have.  It won’t be any anti-fouling paint.

 

Hope to get in one more sailing day this year.  Looking for a warm day!

 

 

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Very clever!  I appreciate your photos.  I'm finishing an S12 now & you've taught me a few things.... like how you attached the halyard & gooseneck so that your mast will still nest for storage. Your photo of the end of your boom answers another question I had about how to route the outhaul line.  Thank you!

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
Spring is almost here and Seabiscuit’s just about finished — and I haven’t decided if I should instal the mini bailer.  I think it would be most useful if the skipper had shipped a lot of water over the lee rail while sailing aggressively in a breeze.  He could easily extend the bailer and quickly eject the water.  The same with water from a downpour.
 
Question #1:  With the flotations in the bow and under the long side-seats — and after the boat is “righted” following a capsize by its solo skipper, could the result be that water in the cockpit is high enough so there would be outflow thru an opened bailer down to the same level as the River water?  And could the boat (with a solo skipper) then still make sailing headway sufficient to eject the cockpit “dry”?  Rowing?  No bailing by crew required?
 
Considering the above — I’ll plan on installing the mini bailer.
 
Question #2:  Recommendation as to location, ... anyone?  Recall that the sheet’s cam-cleat is mounted on the keel about halfway between the center and aft thwarts.
 
Comments and suggestions are welcome.
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I've not completed my Spindrift yet so cannot comment specifically, but I have done quite a lot of sailing on dinghies equipped with these bailers.

They are really designed to keep up with green water and spray coming aboard in lively conditions. And they do that very well indeed. You need to be going pretty fast for them to work- in fact when going too slowly they can let water in, so you generally only open them when going upwind at a good speed.

 

I don't think you'd ever have a significantly higher water level inside the boat than outside. The boat will be designed to float when swamped with the centreboard case out of the water- otherwise it becomes unrecoverable. Opening the bailers on a swamped boat that isn't moving won't do anything, and my gut feeling is that it could be counterproductive.

A swamped dinghy cannot be sailed fast enough for the self bailers to work. You'll need to bail some of the water to lighten the boat, then run off on a broad reach and let the bailers do the rest. All this time you'll have almost zero stability due to the free surface effect.

 

Unless you are an Olympics-level rower I don't think you could row fast enough for bailers to work.

 

My experience is on large traditional dinghies like Wayferers, and some more modern open transom types which don't really count for this discussion. Perhaps the Spindrift behaves differently, but the laws of physics are the same so I guess not.

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Hi, Pete,

I put in an Anderson bailer on my 17, pretty much as described above.  It can remove a LOT of water quickly if you have any speed at all.  There is a flap designed to keep water from coming in if the scoop is down but you're not moving fast enough for suction.  I put it near the center line, more or less under the center thwart, at what I estimated to be the low point of the hull.  I try to remember to leave it open when trailering, and it seems to do a good job with any rainwater that comes in through the cover, too.

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