Jump to content

ForthBridge

Nidaplast and carbon Spindrift N11 build

Recommended Posts

You're right about the odd bit of epoxy here and there adding to the weight. It's difficult to keep on top of the incremental rise. A big learning curve. I think if I'm 15-20% overweight I'll be doing well. 

However, I'm not hugely concerned about the extra weight being too much of a problem. If a skinny half N11 comes in at 16kg and mine is over 20kg it's no real problem. My wife I are getting used to shifting the two sections in tight spaces and they're not too much for us. It's getting used to the size and shape. A block and tackle on a halyard will make quick work of a deck launch. 

I do like the look of the CS17 in aluminium and the fact that she could stop a .38! She must have been an ice breaker in Alaska. Avoiding being overbuilt is the challenge but that's still impressive metal working! 

Weight is always a concern - I thought that a Bruce Roberts design would be perfect for us until we met someone who had a PCF 40 (which wasn't a design we were considering but a similar length). We helped them berth in a breeze and the weight of it was immense. Way too much to handle. Put me off steel completely. 

Anyway, an interesting off topic interlude...back to thinking about cam cleat positioning 🙂

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...


Supporting Members

Supporting Members can create Clubs, photo Galleries, don't see ads and make messing-about.com possible! Become a Supporting Member - only $12 for the next year. Pay by PayPal or credit card.




  • Similar Content

    • By William
      For want of a decent local plywood supplier I will be building in 5mm nidacore honeycomb sandwich, carbon outside, vectran and glass inside. If I can get my hands on some affordable basalt fabric I am sure I will find a few panels for it to feature. It is certainly not going to be as enjoyable as building in wood but at least I will get to learn a few new skills along the way. A lighter boat is almost a guarantee, but that all depends on how many laminates will give me the impact toughness I require. 
       
      I do have a partial sheet of nice 6mm ply and will cut the transom, mast partners and a few other small parts from that.
       
      The nidacore sheets are 7ft x 4ft, which, as fortune would have it, is just long enough to cut the main hull panels from 3 sheets, one being halved and butt-joined to the full sheets just like the plans for plywood.
       
       
    • By Luke
      Hi everyone, this is my first post--I've been lurking here getting lots of good info as I build and finally have a few questions myself!
       
      By now the boat is 3D and wired together. The hull, bulkheads, and transom all seem to fit well, and the boat has no twist in it that I can discern. Measurements from the peak of the bow to the corners of the transom are 109" +/- an 1/8", and sighting down the centerline, the tips of the nesting bulkheads "disappear" below the transom at the same time.
       

       
      I've made a number of spanish windlasses to pull the sides together between the forward and mid bulkhead, to pull out the 1/2" gap between the bottom and the bottom of the nesting bulkheads, to pull the forward bulkhead forward onto its lines, and lastly to try to flatten the bottom seam between bulkheads slightly to close a gap in the bottom panels.
       
      The question is how much of a gap along the keel seam is acceptable? It goes from no gap at the transom and widens to about 1mm around the nesting bulkheads, and up to a maximum of about 3mm halfway between the forward and mid bulkheads. I think the epoxy fillets will cover it just fine, but I just want to make sure it's not a symptom of a larger problem.
       
      Also, the plans don't really give dimensions to make a breasthook or quarter knees--do I just make these to fit the shape of the hull as it stands now? The instructions say the breasthook (included with the kit I suppose) is important to ensure the bow takes the correct shape--so what gives? The sheer lines look nice.
       
      Lastly, I centered the kerf gap of the nesting bulkhead on the "center frame" lines running down the sides--is that correct?
       
      Thanks!
       
       
       
      Additional photos
       
      Looking aft:

       
       
      chine

       
      bow and gap

       
      forward bulkhead

    • By PlaneCrazy
      As my first post on this forum I may as well start a build thread.
       
      I should start out by saying I have little to no experience with boats, but I love building things and my wife says we don’t need any more bookshelves or lawn furniture.
       
      I have read many of the build threads on this site and have appreciated being able to get a more in-depth understanding of the process.
       
      I also watched Alan's set of videos.
       
      So one day I called and talked to Alan, and ordered the kit.
       
      The next thing you know I have a large stack of wood parts, several bottles of epoxy, and rolls of fiberglass tape.
       

       

       
      Onward,
      Mike
       
       
    • By mjshp
      Progess!
      So the breasthook is in, gunwales are on and the quarter knees are secure. I have tacked togeter the panels between the wires! On to the next step of filet and tape.
      So last night I was laying everything out to fillet and tape the aft starboard chine, and doing some basic prep of the tack "welds"--pulling the wires and knocking down a few big bumps left over--to make the next step easier, and it occured to me, things would go much better if I could pull all the wires, prep all the seams and fillet, then tape the boat in one fell swoop.
      The question is, given that I have a small fillet of epoxy between every wire, can I take out all the wires and prep all the seams, or should I leave the wires in as I work on one seam at a time? I have visions of the boat poping apart as I remove the wires--oh the crazy visions that come from having never done this before.
      As always, thanks for the help and advice.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.