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Jessy 15’ build log - Philadelphia, PA


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Keel and stringer locations are marked out in pencil. 
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Should I coat the stringers and keel with epoxy now? Should I do it after they are attached? What’s the best/easiest method to glass around the corners of these pieces?

 

Possibly add fillets to the edges thus rounding them and avoiding corners altogether? 

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Justin,  Looking good. Glad to see you post some pictures and that you were able to get started on the boat finally. I like your casters on the support frames i'm sure you will enjoy being able t

I usually just measure it into a cup carefully the ratio has a window of about 5-10 percent in my experience (I've never had any issues with paint mix ratio).    I don't usually thin the 545

I have been priming the interior over the past few weeks. I have also installed the aft corner knees and built stern brackets to support the aft well/seat. I’ll provide pictures shortly.   I

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What Chick said and I would add: either don't epoxy till installed, or at least scuff  the mating surface well if you did epoxy it first. I epoxied after. I was afraid the keel would become brittle with epoxy and not bend into place well. I do not know this to be an issue for fact.

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@Hirilonde and @Chick Ludwig - thank for your input. I realized I was overthinking this but nonetheless was on the right track. I had already installed side stringers and thus have done this before. I decided to install with screws and large washers. I predrilled the holes about every foot and used 1 1/4” screws on the bottom strakes.

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I have not yet installed the keel (too hot yesterday and barely got the strakes installed). However, the keel is pre-drilled and ready for 1 1/2” screws/washers.

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The forward end of the strakes are cut to the profile of the hull then mitred at 80deg.

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The pieces are uncoated at this point. As you have said, I suppose glassing them will not add much abrasion value. So, a few coats for epoxy and that’ll be that.

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It isn't just that the glass will ad little abrasion resistance.  The keel is a semi-sacrificial component. As such, being semi-easy to replace is a plus. I figure I can chisel mine off in pieces and grind off the screws and replace it. Hoping I don't have to.

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9 minutes ago, Hirilonde said:

It isn't just that the glass will ad little abrasion resistance.  The keel is a semi-sacrificial component. As such, being semi-easy to replace is a plus. I figure I can chisel mine off in pieces and grind off the screws and replace it. Hoping I don't have to.

I'm hoping to not have to do that work. I'll be careful where I take it as I'm sure the thought of the work to replace it will be enough to dissuade my curiosity. 

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9 hours ago, Thrillsbe said:

“Install and then epoxy” sounds like there will be no epoxy between the hull and the mating surface of the keel.  Surely you don’t mean that.

Meant that I instal the keel (withpoxy) before poxy coating it rather than coating it first and then installing it. That was in reply to what Hirilonde said.

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FWIW or what you paid for it, when using fasteners to hold parts down in place while your glue dries, personally I use fine thread screws, which do not grab and hold onto thickened epoxy that's not only dried but cured solid before removing the screws and washers. In many cases they will wring off . If you see that you are having problems backing them back out, use a soldering iron on the head or a small propane torch for a few seconds to heat them up and normally they will come right out without a problem.

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Between using screws to temporarily hold the side stringers, bottom strakes and keel, the screws don’t seem to be locked in if removed within 14hrs. The epoxy is very hard by then and no further compression by the screws would apply. 
 

On a side note, I had family over this past weekend for my kid’s birthday’s party. I needed some help flipping the boat right side up to continue working on the interior. I have a small center console partly stitched together. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I scribed some leftover okume ply to the front and sides of the center console front seat. I centered the console laterally and marked pencil lines on the centerboard frame and cockpit sole. I then cut some pieces of cardboard and hot glued them to the console seat. 
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Extra ply was used to fill in the gaps. I used neat epoxy on the raw wood then thick epoxy to butt joint the pieces onto the bottom of the console seat.

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The end result:

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The little gap at the corner(s) is due to me cutting the front part so the corners overlap alternated. When I did, the angle changed slightly and I didn’t want to cut another side piece. Thickened epoxy will fill it in.

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Moving ahead - time to start adding the hardwood stiffeners. 
 

This one goes along the top of the longitudinal bulkhead and where it meets the inside transom, there is a small gap. I can cut out the piece in the transom and make this extend to it. I have room up front for this after the center bulkhead stiffener is installed.

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For the seat tops, is it best to position them flush with the center frame bulkhead as shown below?

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  • 3 weeks later...

I'm preparing to start the mechanical work: engine, relays, fuel lines, etc.  I am going to run this through the foam compartments to the port & starboard.  I am thinking of using PVC, however, does anyone have experience affixing this to the wood. I will have an opening aft (near the engine mount) and up front (under/near the center console) and I don't believe the epoxy will bond with plastic. What is a good solution?

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Like Peter I have used the flame method but I did not realize that pipe glue was compatible with epoxy. When running PVC wire chases I used to just rough up the surface where I need to bond and glass the back side to the frame or bulkhead and have the PVC stand out far enough to get a nice fillet all around the pipe. The object was to waterproof the joint as the PVC passing through the frame and mechanically connected to the glass had more strength than it needed.

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