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Jknight611

Mathew Flinders 246

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No, but I have considered a sun room instead of a quarter berth!  The huge laserett is on the port side,  building some shelving in there to prevent the “toss it in the bottom “ syndrome. 

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Keep these updates coming Jay, it's a bit quiet around here! We need Chick to build another B & B boat!

 

BTW....I once traced a perfect headliner replacement for a vintage car I was helping someone restore and cut it out reversed, wasting the only piece we had.

 

Besides, making your 5th should be much quicker than the previous ones so there is that.

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Steve, fortunately there is/was only one rather large tapered hatch on the port side,  we plan to go offshore some and I wanted as few openings in the cockpit as reasonable.  We took a wave one night in our Orion, completely filled the cockpit, made a believer of me!   

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Well, the cabin is coming together,  the insulation is in place an looking good.  I am in a quandary on the hatch on the cabin top, originally I wanted a butterfly hatch simulated,  I mean it would look like a butterfly hatch when closed and open similarly to a regular hatch, but after visualizing the cabin I am leaning towards a “store bought “ hatch.   One of the funs in boat building is you have choices!

 

My remedial hatch frame is completed,  and the one I built backwards sure looks good, other than being...... well who hasn’t built 2 lefts an no rights.

 

Glassed the rudders ( a big un an a little un). The core is Airex PXC is super strong, light, rigid, waterproof, chemical proof,  nuclear weapon resistant and the absolute work of the devil!  I sanded the mill marks and rounded some areas....... I will be scratching for a week!  Never imagined it was that nasty to work with. 
 

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Happy New Year Jay.

  Thanks for the update. Can you give some more details of how you have constructed the cabin? How were the sides constructed?           Is there  an inner ply skin? I am assuming you will glue a plywood skin on the exterior. Does the main sheet attach to the cabin top?

How did you establish the roof camber?

 

 

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And a very happy New Year to all!  

 

Here is a picture of the cabin before the foam insulation.  The inner skin is maybe 3/16 inch and it was easily formed over the fore/aft building jig, yea the one that knocks my head.    Simply filet an tape to the equally thin side inner skins.  The 3/4 inch SYP is just formed over the fore/aft  building jig on the cnc drawn lines on the top side of the inner skins. I then installed a 3/4 inch blocking (thickness of the insulation) on the outboard sides of the overhead panel and sidewall intersection for a landing spot for the outer top and side skins.  If you notice the blocking just aft of the top hatch that is where the forward cabin knees tie into the overhead.  There is some 3/4 blocking on the side walls to carry the deck house top loads to the deck carlins.   I plan to epoxy the foam to the inner skin when I install the top skin,  kinda bond the entire skin and insulation assembly at one whack.  The cabin top is at a stopping point till the foredeck is installed,  and that is dependent on a bunch of seemingly minor stuff in the head and main tabernacle, because the cabin front sits on the foredeck.  So chickens or eggs.... 


The location of the main sheet......errrrr probably not on the cabin top, might be a little far forward on the wishbone sprit weldment.   I will be building the tabernacles soon, I want to extend the tabernacles so we have access to the cabin with the masts lowered, so with the mizzen tabernacle a little taller,  possibly a block on the mizzenmast tabernacle up high with the sheet following down the tabernacle to a block/cleat arrangement at the base if the tabernacle and bridge deck.  If I find I need to control mainsail twist I may make a twinger arrangement in place of a main sheet traveler. A taller tabernacle might make a good support for the aft tube support on the dodger too!   Time will tell.  

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I bet I am not to first to have “problems “ holding light fiberglass cloth up while you fit and apply the epoxy, I was glassing the ice box today and it is kinda hard to reach (didn’t think to do this before I installed the foam box).   It came to me to try basting tape,  I have a heavy sewing machine and basting tape is something I use a lot of.  Well, a little strip of 3/8 basting tape holds the dry glass in place perfectly while you fiddle around getting it “just right”. After you apply epoxy I couldn’t find evidence of the tape through the laminate.  Sure made it easier messing with the light glass.   I may try using this technique when we glass the hull.  

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Although it is in german i find in that video they show a good method to apply glass and epoxi over head.
You don't necessarily have to understand German to understand the steps of glassing…
the interesting part starts at 8:00

 

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Many thanks for the link to the video.  We are nearing that point, and a video is worth 1000 words.  I think we will glass the deck before tackling the hull, to get the glassing mojo warmed up.   Currently finishing making drawers and some storage ideas for the laserett, and the ever glamorous rebuilding the head pump.   Graham and I discussed an end plate for the rudder so I layed up a 1 inch thick fiberglass foot for the rudder with the intent controlling the hi an lo pressure water flow, like the current trend of winglets on airplanes. Cabin top is nearing complete,  insulated deck and cabin “should “ help with condensation.   I keep delaying applying primer in the cabin,  want to make durn sure all my ducks are in order before I start that phase.  

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You are making good progress.👍
The endcap seems to be a good idea. Seen it sometimes at workboats that operate slow in shallow waters. I think with an endcap the rudder needs not reach so deep as without…

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Hi Joe, dat green thing is the base plate on da foot of the rudder,  trying to control the higher water pressure from slipping over the bottom of the rudder.   Fixed rudder so it might make it more efficient.  It may turn out to be just something to stand on when I do my walking on water act.

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Well, I am sure it will gather some sargassum grass along the way, but there is a stub keel, and a electric motor pod ahead of the rudder which will help.  We plan to use the boat in more open water and that should/maybe help.  The actual foot plate doesn’t protrude ahead of the rudder leading edge, that will help too.  

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Been busy on Matthew,  got the interior primed and the decks glassed from the aft end of the deckhouse to the pointy end.   The Torqeedo pod, battery and all the charger stuff arrived.  

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Torqeedo pod looks pretty hydrodynamic!  Sleek!  The interior is primed and ready for the final paint,  all the trim pieces are completed and we’ll go mostly where the blue tape goes.  My “supplier” of the planned on pecan trim became a “guest” of the state,  I want to complete the boat before he “is available “.   I have enough pecan to trip the bulkheads and drawer fronts.  The larger pieces are cypress.  

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That motor looks quiet nice and compact. But isn´t the mounting flange a little bit small?
Wouldn´t a larger flange distribute the load when hitting an underwater obstacle better?

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