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Core Sound 20 Mk3 #23 - Williamsburg, VA


Todd Stein
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I hadn’t thought about recessing nuts, but know since you mentioned it........??. I think the wedge might be overkill but I figure I could always trim down. I’m currently awaiting U bolts  from Amazon for the stern.  I still strongly desire a boomkin but it will definitely be of a asymmetric design. Still holding hope to have room for windvane, although I very pleased to hear the boat, once properly trim can often sail herself. Now back to sanding on this windy, windy day.

 

Peace, Out.

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  • 2 months later...

Holy smokes! It’s been more than 2 months since last post and want to provide some pictorial update. Truth be told progress has been steady albeit slow which I attribute to the social isolation protocols and unexpected lack motivation. Although for me boat building seems to have been a sound constructive activity to remain semi-isolated, I’ve often felt guilty as friends, neighbors and acquaintances undergo job losses, financial struggles and other effects of COVID-19. The impact has been difficult on all of us, some more than others and my heart saddens for those who have experienced loss and continue to struggle. I have faith we, as a nation will overcome these crises.

 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

With the help of family the boat building is steadily progressing. Last Friday with the assistance of Jim and my mother, (Aka “Rolling Stone”) we glued and screwed the cabin roof in position. We affixed it as one piece and it appeared to have kept a consistent camber throughout. Using several chalk lines Topsides to mark the longitudinal cleats really helped when it came to temporarily screwing down the piece. We also used weights along the center seam. 
 

The masts have been primed using Rust-Oleum marine coating primer for metal. The big box store had only one quart can left which was white. Since final coating will be white I thought I should add tiny amount of pigment to the primer, hence the nauseating blue green. I’m giving a couple extra days to dry before applying first coat. I made the epoxy ramps for the sail track using leftover pieces from the ballast tank epoxy/fiberglass flanges. I sandwiched them between thickened epoxy and then covered and clamped the enchiladas.

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  • 3 months later...

The construction of our Core Sound MK3 is steadily progressing as expected. The hull was inverted successfully with no issues. Using our Boy Scout skills we rigged an “A” frame for the bow using 2x6’s and rope. For the aft end  we rigged a continuous rope/line which turned as we rotated the boat. After hull is painted I think we’ll rig a board to the transom eyes and rotate like Amos did.

Currently the hull is glassed and two coats of microsphere epoxy have been sanded and faired. There are quite a number of undulations and imperfections remaining and I’m thinking a fairing compound is in order before the primer coating. As per Alan’s video, I used a long board and a new Mikita half sheet electric sander making short work of it using mostly 80/150 grit. I built putty up along aft section of chine and transom which will be faired squared. I plan to finish the transom bright and varnished.

 

 

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Hi, and hope everyone is well I am about at the point that you are the bottom of the hull is done rolled her back over made the new hull support and once again started working to finish the inside I have built and installed the rudder/tiller assembly and just yesterday glued down the port seat top the starboard side is still under construction with the ice box being built . Your boat looks great and unless you have built one you have know idea how much work it took to get there. Hope to see next mess-about I’ll try to be there.

 

mark

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I’m working on the keel strip using African mahogany. I’ve finished building up a “sharpened” chine starting aft of the centerboard as well as the bottom of the transom. I hope it holds up to wear and tear and provides the added performance when the wind pipes up. I used a chisel and dremel sander to recess the two ballast bailers which I hope to mount this week. What would you all recommend to seal the bailers, polysulfide? Last picture is a tiller lock I saw on the internet and wanted to inquire if anyone has had experience with using one? I’m unclear if the hardware could possibly work on the CS.

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I used polysulfide, but mine sits on a trailer most of the time. I think Alan uses a butyl rubber from the travel trailer industry.

 

That tiller lock is wickedly simple.  I love it. But how do you keep the part attached to the tiller from scraping on your brightwork, when the other part is flipped down.  

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Valid point I’m having to look at carefully, best to be sure tiller doesn’t bend down. Maybe a thin veneer strip of starboard ? I appreciate the feedback of sealing the bailers. I’m leaning toward using polysulfide (small tube). It’s always frustrating having the darn stuff dry hard in the 10 oz cartridges. I had to chisel out a lot more wood to get the bailers flush. A mistake a made was having the bailer cutouts to close to centerline causing the bailer flange to impinge on the keel strip, ugh. Work around was to set the bailer a little bit deeper. Another huge lesson I learned while pre-screwing the keel strip was to use the ever present dry wall screws which I used throughout the build. Forgetting the hardness of mahogany, I had 3 of the dozen or so screws shear off causing frustrating time digging and pounding out the embedded screw. That provided enough reflection to replace all with beeswax dipped s/s screws. Ah the lessons I learn along the way. Kinda wish I could take a sabbatical to a wooden boat building school!

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BoatLife LifeCaulk, a polysulfide, comes in tooth past tubes as well as cartridges.  Their cartridges have removable tips.  If partial for a while just twist of the tip and pull the hard stuff out the easy end. I just used a partial cartridge that was over a year old.

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  • 1 month later...

Help, Please!

 

The boat is coming together nicely and I’ve begun working on the bowsprit assembly using a high carbon content sailboard mast. I watched the B&B video which shows Alan making a mast sleeve and followed the steps closely. However after epoxy kicked off I couldn’t release the epoxy sleeve. I’ve tried pulling out the longitudinal strips with negres(negative results), heating the sleeve with tea kettle water, spraying multi-purpose lubricant between mast and sleeve, banging down alternating on mast base and mast tip with little results. Since mast is slightly tapered I was able to move the epoxy sleeve 5-6 inches towards tapered end. I tried heating sleeve with heat gun and then grab hold of sleeve and repeatedly slam mast tip, all with negres. Can somebody please suggest another technique before I have to cut the durn off and start again?

 

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Hi Todd, boat is looking good, I really like the colors you chose!  I had the same problem,  I couldn’t get the “form” out of the layup.  I think my problem was the plastic sheet was too thin, when I pulled it did the “Chinese fingers” trick.  I had to cut a thin relief cut to get it off.  Boat is almost 5 years old, and I still have shards of light plastic inside my tube.  I made another for the Flinders project with the same weight plastic that the contractors put under a concrete slab and it pulled right off.  

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This was my experience:

 

 

I was thinking HOW to do it, to get enough counteracting force since my first hands only effort didn’t work.  One thought I had, but didn’t need to act on, was to put a rope cinch on the fiberglass tube (or maybe some way to hook onto the end of the tube) and another cinch  on the aluminum tube... then flipping the jaws of a bar clamp around to be a spreader... and hopefully...

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Don’t know if it would have worked.  My all-I-had max-force arm-isometric approach was enough to make it juuuuust start moving.  I needed a lot of rest times between my 1/4 inch moves. 
 

By the way, how LONG is the tube you’re trying to make?  I think I could not have manually pulled the tube off if there was any more length to increase the friction. 
 

Admission of tube-making defeat by Alan:

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Todd hi!

I guess I got lucky on my bow sprit tube it came off fairly easily but I did  use some blunt force to get it off the mold. I cut a block of hard wood to use as a tapping block placed it at the end of the tube and hit it with a dead blow hammer driving the glass tube off also a strap oil filter wrench will allow you to turn the tube without application of pressure at any one spot while your tapping it. But to go back a step when I made the mold I wrapped a couple layers of duct tape around the mold wit a wrap of Teflon tape on top to keep it from sticking. Back when I was working we made one off parts out of styrofoam glassed over them and then to remove the mold we poured acetone into it and it dissolved the foam leaving the hollow shape

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