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Todd Stein

Core Sound 20 Mk3 #23 - Williamsburg, VA

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Well now it’s officially been 365 days since I have taken delivery of our boat and throughout the day have been reflecting on this project.

In the early days and weeks of this build I initially set a goal to have the boat completed within a year, not fully realizing my novice skill and speed of work. The reality I’ve learned and now fully accept is that it doesn’t really matter how long it takes and I should avoid time lines as a tool of project measurement. Many a friend have taught me to “enjoy the process”, “embrace the build” and “it’s the journey-not the destination “ and many other manner of wisdom. Their words ring true. At times I have been frustrated because I was so messy with taping and fillets or became irritated with myself for making mistakes after mistakes. Aside from my “opportunities for growth” this has been a life long dream and something which has provided satisfaction and fulfillment. I look forward to getting out on the water whenever that occurs and start a new sailing chapter. But for now I’m profoundly grateful to have a project like this to undertake and keep me busy.

This has been such an adventure and learning experience and I’m glad I chose to build this boat. Big shout out for all who have helped me and been supportive. Jim - thanks for your wonderful suggestions and talents during our Friday sessions. 

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Great progress. That brings back both good memories and some bad ones!

 

If Alan is reading this has the CB been moved forward a bit? It looks like the pivot point is more forward than my original.

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Steve,

 

Seeing that I was responsible for positioning the board and moving it forward, I will tackle your question.

 

There is an enormous amount of pushing and pulling, balancing and compromise in creating a new boat. One of the tough decisions was the positioning the centerboard so that the boat would balance under a wide range of sail combinations and not interfere with access to the port bunk. I moved the rig as far aft as I could and you may recall that I put a trimming board forward on Carlita.

 

The trimming board may have helped but it was too small to be able to feel it. I found that I always reefed the main first and when I reefed the mizzen I put the second reef in the main. As wind pressure goes up by the square of the speed, once the boat cannot absorb any more power you must reef, therein after the windage of the boat increases while the power of the rig cannot, at the same time drag increases. This is so with all boats but the windage of this boat being more forward, there can be some lee helm when the boat is reefed proportionally unless you sheet the mizzen in close and ease the main. I never had any real issues in heavy weather but if I did I planned to rig a line to haul the mizzen slightly to weather.

 

During my trip to the Pacific North West, I lived on the boat for about 5 or 6 weeks and had plenty of time to think about this issue and to try out ideas with the interior ergonomics. I don't know why it took so long to come to me that I could move the board forward by the length of the step and even slightly more if the top was rounded without hurting the interior.

 

While at the Port Townsend Small Craft Festival, I must have heard it a hundred times, " I really like this boat but I need more headroom". I had felt that many of the clever ideas that we incorporated in the assembly of the boat like building the cockpit module first, actually made the boat tiresome to glass in place and required more diligence to make sure that there are no leaks through the many intersections of the baffles which were also structural members.

 

On the long drive home I decided to redesign both versions. Raise the free-board 2", move the board forward and eliminate running the baffles into the tank. Instead the ballast tank would be made like a tub and glassed in one one shot before adding the baffles. 

 

Alan was less than enthusiastic as we had put in more than a year perfecting all of the files and the plans were very comprehensive. It took another year to be back where we were with what I call the mk3.2. I think that Mark was one of the many wishing for more cabin height and I believe that he got the first 3.2.

 

Will the boat have weather helm with the change? It can but it can easily be eliminated by raking the board aft. What about boats already built. There are two choices, adjust sails as necessary or rework the trunk. I have had it on my list to make the change to Carlita but I have not felt that it is important enough to put it at the head of my other needs yet.

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IF you remember that was a concern of mine, but I'm happy with the headroom. I'm 6'0" but long legged which means my torso is shorter but I have had some passengers with issues.

 

I find that the helm is so neutral it's a bit scary, like it could sail away on me. But my 12 years of sailing a Sea Pearl have gotten me real used to reefing to a schedule and keeping my mizzen sheeted tight. I think that is why the pic of the split mizzen sheet shown recently appeals to me. This whole quarantine has got me stir crazy. I need to get Skeena out and about. I really want to do the EC next year and I know nothing. I'm hoping the B & B crew has some team tips.

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Steve, I’m in accordance with your thoughts as well. At 6’ and slowly shrinking the cabin height appears just right, especially when I can clearly see through the dead lights without having to scooch up or down. I see if that changes when I add foam on the bunks. 
 

Additionally I too would like to sail the EC, however there’s a number of benchmarks I need to accomplish. The wife supports my goal as long as I don’t go singlehanded- nfc.

 

Lastly, I’m nearing the point of fabricating the cutout for the outboard well and wanted to ask if there’s any diagrams, pictures  or suggestions you could share please? I purchased a used 20” shaft Tohatsu 6HP and plan to transom mount, starboard of rudder. How far below bottom of transom do you suggest for cavitation plate? Outboard has reverse gear so 360 pivot is a non issue. Thanks again for all your suggestions and kind support. This is a special group.

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Todd, I'll take some pics and measurements later but you should dig into my build thread. The motor mount came out great and looks nice, but if you are using that big of a motor I'd build a fake stern out of luan or even cardboard and test it. My motor has to swivel so that made for getting things perfect. I did screw up and use a short shaft motor which worked until I went anywhere forward of the companion way. The long shaft is great. 

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After a couple weeks of working on other parts of the boat, time finally came to decide where and how to locate and mount retracting swim ladder and outboard motor well. I was definitely apprehensive about cutting a 3” hole (least it was above the waterline) so I asked my brother in law, Jim to the cutting. I jokingly told him I’d rather have someone to blame if it was wrong, lol. The difficulty was figuring out the correct angle for both the backing plate and the exterior cheek wedge for mounting the ladder. We cut 1” thick mahogany into three 6” x 8.5” and epoxied them together. Once cured I’ll cut out a 3” angled hole after which the piece will be cut diagonally lengthwise. This should give the correct angle to mounting the recessed storage tube and mounting plate. 
 

The outboard motor mount and recessed tray was straightforward but needed a few adjustments. I wonder how to minimize engine vibration and I’m open to any and all suggestions. Thanks Steve for the walkthrough video and Jim for the 3D math skills.

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Todd, that looks great. I think if you are going to use that bigger motor with FNR, you probably have less challenges, but if you can put the  motor in and run it through it's range of motion. What did you decide on the boomkin and steering vane?

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I had a phonecon with Alan regarding boomkin placement and he suggested it can be mounted asymmetrically and doesn’t necessarily need to follow plans. Once I get equipment mounted we’ll see if and how to fit to boomkin. I wanted to have a minimum of 12” from ladder mount to boomkin so one could climb up unobstructed - somewhat.mMore pictures to follow in coming weeks. 
 

Hope this will be the end of cold weather and you can shake out the canvas and get out on the water. 

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It's still chilly up here, but the good news is they re-opened launch ramps. Social distancing by sail is a reality for now.

 

 

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On Summer Breeze, my well worked fine as far as swiveling and being deep enough to not cavitate---except when I went forward. Mine was a short shaft motor. The problem for my boat was that the box wasn't long enough. The powerhead of the motor hit the deck before the motor could tilt all the way, and before the tilt lock could catch and hold the motor in a tilted position.

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Once again I found myself getting to far ahead of myself by temporarily dry fitting the sheer strakes before completing the cockpit seats. Not a big deal of course but I’m really wanting to get the cabin enclosed so I start painting. The mounting block for swim ladder turned out nicely as well as the outboard well which took several variants. 

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That outboard motor well looks great. I glued a piece of 3/4 stock to the plywood sticking above the transom and used a laminate trimmer to match the plywood. The swim ladder bushing looks really nice and strong. I'm guessing you are recessing the nut in the inside wedge?

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Interested in your boomkin installation,  I can see Southern Express getting one.  I think you will get a better sheeting angle and outboard seems to have an affinity to the mizzen sheets! 

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