Jump to content

Todd Stein

Core Sound 20 Mk3 #23 - Williamsburg, VA

Recommended Posts

On 5/25/2019 at 7:13 PM, Todd Stein said:

I’m about to begin attaching the longitudinal stringers to the hull sides and bottom. I’ve pre-drilled and attached block and drywall screws on outboard side. My question is how do you recommend positioning the plywood while applying the epoxy filler, vertically or horizontally? Initially I had the plywood piece hanging vertically so I could work both sides, but wanted see if there’s a better way?

 

Todd

 

We had the plywood panels horizontal; my wife aligned (and bent in place) the stringers using the pen lines as a guide; I inserted the screws from below.  The only slight difficulty we had was seeing the pen lines after applying the thickened epoxy.  It is a messy process; just accept the fact that there will be a lot of extra epoxy to clean up afterwards.

 

20160820_190428_zpsxqwvm6sd.jpg

 

 

Attaching the stringers onto vertical panels might be easier (how come you didn't suggest that to me three years ago?☺️)  .

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the suggestions, So far its mostly been a me, myself and I project since wife works full time and kids have emptied the nest. I’ve had to think/ plan ahead and come up with alternative ways however family and neighbors will assist in the 3D unfolding which I’ll be certain to document.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 5/29/2019 at 7:11 AM, AmosSwogger said:

The only slight difficulty we had was seeing the pen lines after applying the thickened epoxy.

 

When working short handed I have had some success using small sticks clamped in place perpendicular to the stringer to lock it in place during a dry fit in addition to the pencil marks. That way when you get the part all smeared up with goop and you can't see any marks, and you are in a hurry,  you have some confidence that the stringer is close to the marks. Then when you have time you can smear away the goop, find the marks, and remove the temporary sticks.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Excellent suggestions which I’ll take for action from both individuals. I surely appreciate your input and grateful for the support, remarkable forum!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Howdy,

Here in Williamsburg this summer has been hot and humid especially in the garage. The fans have helped but there’s no workaround for the humidity and thus far and little progress has been made until recently. A familiar voice of reason spoke out suggesting an A/C window unit which I found on Craigslist for cheap. It has been a humongous improvement in the working conditions as well as boosting morale and keeping my iced tea from melting!

 

I had a challenge getting first two bulkheads to fit but after conferring with Alan and other sailing friends I was able to come up with a combination solution of additional wires and inward tensioning using para-cord. I was careful to use mild tension on the para-cord to close gap between hull and bulkheads keeping aware concave deflection on outer hull. Fillets and glassing Blkhds 1&2 are completed, awaiting overnight cure and then proceeding upwards and onwards to next stages. FB2B6F6F-5743-4437-A124-C09161D1DCC3.thumb.jpeg.7abf5b90bbf9e9c0584f7358f1f2ce23.jpeg5E3BE2FE-7FB3-4B89-9E9A-B78FC5D8B46F.thumb.jpeg.7b064c9d86470ce3ded297b7d397cb19.jpegB6041282-16B4-4AA4-AE18-BE584F72B18D.thumb.jpeg.3e06f0ef9a0b8b21502f8f57ffe2ee98.jpegF0EA695F-C1B1-45F5-B464-FB75D8B21E01.thumb.jpeg.8950893a5053c05e8ee666ffd4e71bd1.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It’s been a typical hot, humid summer and Labor Day is hopefully a welcome change. Unfortunately I haven’t sailed but twice this year, instead focusing my limited energy on the boat building. Internal framework came together nicely and have had lots of opportunity applying epoxy fillets and sanding down mistake after mistake. I’m grateful my learning curve is being applied to areas of the boat that will be seldom seen!

 

A huge boost came when Amos reached out and volunteered to help me fit and install the cockpit, centerboard and numerous bulkheads.

His guidance and hands on support were deeply appreciative and helped me get over a small mental hump in the build. His willingness to help speaks volumes in of itself, but I think it shows the general esprit de corps of this B&B builders forum. 

 

B2D92197-24C4-45F8-BD25-61812E382CBB.jpeg

10B4BB4A-0809-4753-A0EE-F2740AE5126F.jpeg

8C01BF08-7893-4FF4-85D5-5211ECE58F7F.jpeg

D3AF2BC6-ADE4-47E2-BE49-66E12F382409.jpeg

D08F7CE3-2503-4D79-9673-6D5889F56D8D.jpeg

AA83AE67-0A9C-4C60-8FD8-D0CBA28D2900.jpeg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I’m looking to purchase a 4 stroke OBM either a Suzuki or Tohatsu in the 4 to 6 HP range. Any suggestions or recommendations? The Suzuki is several pounds lighter than Tohatsu and the weights the same in the Suzuki 4 and 6HP, difference of a larger carb I’m thinking.

Do you suggest a 15” or 20” model if I’m going to fabricate a cutout in the transom?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Definitely the  20".  I'm using the 15", and it works pretty good, but it does cavitate unless your weight is all the way aft.  I need to deepen my cutout to lower the motor so the prop could achieve a better "bite" in the water. 

Pete tried the 15" and shifted over to the 20" for these reasons.

 

As far as HP is concerned, 2.5HP has been more than enough for me.  It pushes the boat 4-5 knots at 1/4 throttle.  I have had to motor up a narrow channel against a strong wind (with water ballast and overnight gear) and it performed well.  It sips fuel.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I concur what Amos said. I worked hard to get the cav plate below the hull, but I find if there are any waves it revs without the bite it needs. I got lucky as a friend was going to order a short shaft for his boat so I just sold him and ordered a 2.5L. I will say I think the 2.5 is enough, but i don't deal with many tidal currents up here in NY. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It’s been a few weeks since I’ve posted and wanted to share recent updates. Despite using peel ply I’m still having my fair share of sanding. I’ve filleted and taped a majority of the bulkheads and most everything below the waterline save the ballast tank/cockpit.

I’m chomping at the bit to fabricate flanges for ballast tank using the technique Alan showed. Currently I’ve been coatings the settee bunks and hatches with coats of epoxy. For the last coat I’ve experimented by adding white pigment to the neat epoxy. Reason being if I decide to paint, it will more than likely be a light color and cover more easily, hopefully with less paint. I was also thinking if it would be feasible/recommended adding enough pigment in the epoxy so as to be a top coat? I would appreciate your suggestions and feedback if this is an acceptable approach.

13044D6E-FEA8-43BA-AC95-F6856C06A66D.jpeg

D8723FDF-10C4-46AB-BCC9-A1D731E6139B.jpeg

27DA1B48-D08F-40BF-AB5A-1D38453DF782.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looking good. I tried the pigment experiment and gave up. It just required more mixing, and measuring and in the end paint covered it about the same as the unpigmented. I had to give both two coats.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Me too, I tried to dye my epoxy white for the water tanks on the boat I am currently building.  Didn’t work for squat!  On my Core Sound I bought Sherwin Williams paint called Tile Clad to paint the under deck areas, it is epoxy based 2 part and it 4 years of hard play still looks good.  I am going to paint several areas on Mather Flinders with Tile Clad, good stuff. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.