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Core Sound 20 Mk3 #23 - Williamsburg, VA


Todd Stein

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On 5/25/2019 at 7:13 PM, Todd Stein said:

I’m about to begin attaching the longitudinal stringers to the hull sides and bottom. I’ve pre-drilled and attached block and drywall screws on outboard side. My question is how do you recommend positioning the plywood while applying the epoxy filler, vertically or horizontally? Initially I had the plywood piece hanging vertically so I could work both sides, but wanted see if there’s a better way?

 

Todd

 

We had the plywood panels horizontal; my wife aligned (and bent in place) the stringers using the pen lines as a guide; I inserted the screws from below.  The only slight difficulty we had was seeing the pen lines after applying the thickened epoxy.  It is a messy process; just accept the fact that there will be a lot of extra epoxy to clean up afterwards.

 

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Attaching the stringers onto vertical panels might be easier (how come you didn't suggest that to me three years ago?☺️)  .

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Thanks for the suggestions, So far its mostly been a me, myself and I project since wife works full time and kids have emptied the nest. I’ve had to think/ plan ahead and come up with alternative ways however family and neighbors will assist in the 3D unfolding which I’ll be certain to document.

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On 5/29/2019 at 7:11 AM, AmosSwogger said:

The only slight difficulty we had was seeing the pen lines after applying the thickened epoxy.

 

When working short handed I have had some success using small sticks clamped in place perpendicular to the stringer to lock it in place during a dry fit in addition to the pencil marks. That way when you get the part all smeared up with goop and you can't see any marks, and you are in a hurry,  you have some confidence that the stringer is close to the marks. Then when you have time you can smear away the goop, find the marks, and remove the temporary sticks.

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  • 1 month later...

Howdy,

Here in Williamsburg this summer has been hot and humid especially in the garage. The fans have helped but there’s no workaround for the humidity and thus far and little progress has been made until recently. A familiar voice of reason spoke out suggesting an A/C window unit which I found on Craigslist for cheap. It has been a humongous improvement in the working conditions as well as boosting morale and keeping my iced tea from melting!

 

I had a challenge getting first two bulkheads to fit but after conferring with Alan and other sailing friends I was able to come up with a combination solution of additional wires and inward tensioning using para-cord. I was careful to use mild tension on the para-cord to close gap between hull and bulkheads keeping aware concave deflection on outer hull. Fillets and glassing Blkhds 1&2 are completed, awaiting overnight cure and then proceeding upwards and onwards to next stages. FB2B6F6F-5743-4437-A124-C09161D1DCC3.thumb.jpeg.7abf5b90bbf9e9c0584f7358f1f2ce23.jpeg5E3BE2FE-7FB3-4B89-9E9A-B78FC5D8B46F.thumb.jpeg.7b064c9d86470ce3ded297b7d397cb19.jpegB6041282-16B4-4AA4-AE18-BE584F72B18D.thumb.jpeg.3e06f0ef9a0b8b21502f8f57ffe2ee98.jpegF0EA695F-C1B1-45F5-B464-FB75D8B21E01.thumb.jpeg.8950893a5053c05e8ee666ffd4e71bd1.jpeg

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  • 1 month later...

It’s been a typical hot, humid summer and Labor Day is hopefully a welcome change. Unfortunately I haven’t sailed but twice this year, instead focusing my limited energy on the boat building. Internal framework came together nicely and have had lots of opportunity applying epoxy fillets and sanding down mistake after mistake. I’m grateful my learning curve is being applied to areas of the boat that will be seldom seen!

 

A huge boost came when Amos reached out and volunteered to help me fit and install the cockpit, centerboard and numerous bulkheads.

His guidance and hands on support were deeply appreciative and helped me get over a small mental hump in the build. His willingness to help speaks volumes in of itself, but I think it shows the general esprit de corps of this B&B builders forum. 

 

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I’m looking to purchase a 4 stroke OBM either a Suzuki or Tohatsu in the 4 to 6 HP range. Any suggestions or recommendations? The Suzuki is several pounds lighter than Tohatsu and the weights the same in the Suzuki 4 and 6HP, difference of a larger carb I’m thinking.

Do you suggest a 15” or 20” model if I’m going to fabricate a cutout in the transom?

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Definitely the  20".  I'm using the 15", and it works pretty good, but it does cavitate unless your weight is all the way aft.  I need to deepen my cutout to lower the motor so the prop could achieve a better "bite" in the water. 

Pete tried the 15" and shifted over to the 20" for these reasons.

 

As far as HP is concerned, 2.5HP has been more than enough for me.  It pushes the boat 4-5 knots at 1/4 throttle.  I have had to motor up a narrow channel against a strong wind (with water ballast and overnight gear) and it performed well.  It sips fuel.

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I concur what Amos said. I worked hard to get the cav plate below the hull, but I find if there are any waves it revs without the bite it needs. I got lucky as a friend was going to order a short shaft for his boat so I just sold him and ordered a 2.5L. I will say I think the 2.5 is enough, but i don't deal with many tidal currents up here in NY. 

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  • 4 weeks later...

It’s been a few weeks since I’ve posted and wanted to share recent updates. Despite using peel ply I’m still having my fair share of sanding. I’ve filleted and taped a majority of the bulkheads and most everything below the waterline save the ballast tank/cockpit.

I’m chomping at the bit to fabricate flanges for ballast tank using the technique Alan showed. Currently I’ve been coatings the settee bunks and hatches with coats of epoxy. For the last coat I’ve experimented by adding white pigment to the neat epoxy. Reason being if I decide to paint, it will more than likely be a light color and cover more easily, hopefully with less paint. I was also thinking if it would be feasible/recommended adding enough pigment in the epoxy so as to be a top coat? I would appreciate your suggestions and feedback if this is an acceptable approach.

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Me too, I tried to dye my epoxy white for the water tanks on the boat I am currently building.  Didn’t work for squat!  On my Core Sound I bought Sherwin Williams paint called Tile Clad to paint the under deck areas, it is epoxy based 2 part and it 4 years of hard play still looks good.  I am going to paint several areas on Mather Flinders with Tile Clad, good stuff. 

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  • 4 months later...

After a 4 month hiatus from the build, I’ve been steadily engaged since the beginning of the year. I had to go back and sand the epoxy along the bulkhead and thwarts beneath the bench seats. For the stowage compartments underneath the benches I added white pigment into the final 2 epoxy coats. I’m not sure I like it but it’ll be bright enough to find small objects in the stowage.

 

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There are 2 issues to be aware of that I have encountered with these inspection ports.  

 

1. Do not use a polysulfide bedding compound.  It will release.  3M 101 and BoatLife LifeCaulk are polysulfides.  They do not work with most plastics.

2. When you fasten the rim over bedding it will likely not seat flush.  The fasteners will pull the rim tight and spaces in between may bow out.  I suggest adding clamps between fasteners until the bedding cures. Try not to over tighten as you may squeeze out too much of the bedding and lose the water tight seal.

 

I try to stay away from strong adhesives like 3M 4200 and 5200 because removal later can be damaging.  But in this application it really is a better than most option.  Get it right the first time and clean up well afterwards. Masking or cleaning before cure both work.

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Graham will probably chime in here but go ahead and beat him to it since I know what he will say. He prefers to simply sands the back of the flange and glue it to the bulkhead with thickened epoxy. I haven't seen this method fail yet and it makes a perfect seal. You could add bolts after the fact if you wanted but why bother. 

 

Probably just as good would be to just glue it on with 5200 and no fasteners. I can speak with experience that with this method the plywood will rip out before the hatch does so screws or bolts seem pointless in that case also. 

 

If you DO want to be able to remove the hatch then bed it with butyl rubber caulk and then use bolts or srews. DONT use butyl rubber tape, it is far too thick and you'll never get it to squeeze down. 

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