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10 year spindrift project

Scott Dunsworth

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I started this spindrift over 10 years ago, it got set aside for other projects shortly after I got started. But I was needing something to do this winter that would fit in the garage so out she came. The bottom of the hull is 1/4 inch meranti and the sides are 3mm oakume planked with 1/4 inch mahogany. The transom is rounded mahogany and the front deck is mahogany and birdseye maple. I'm moving along at a good pace now so I will bee posting a few pictures along the way for those that are interested. There is a lot of customizing of this boat, its the basic design with some pretty's added. She will come in 40 to 50 pounds over weight I'm sure but she will sure be purty!

Heres a pic of the deck roughed in.



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  • 5 months later...



It depends on what paint you are putting on the epoxy. If you are using two part epoxy primer you can put it on while the resin is green. If you are using one part paint it needs to be fully cured. Leaving the boat upside in the sun should post cure it enough to paint with anything once the surface is sanded and washed.


If you want to be sure that your chosen one part paint is compatible with your epoxy you can do a test on say about 4" square. Do a control patch of the same paint on a non epoxy painted surface to see if they cure at the same rate. If they do not, they are not compatible. Do not be fooled by the surface skinning over, it is the the paint touching the epoxy that you are interested in. Interlux paints got sick of this problem and state that none of their one paints should be used directly over epoxy and recommend using an epoxy primer first. I have had good success with one part paints directly over cured epoxy but I prefer two paints for durability.


I prefer to post cure epoxy glassed hulls in the sun before painting as it helps to prevent or reduce print-thru. That is the glass weave pattern showing through the paint after being in the sun for a while.

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  • 6 months later...

Tried the epoxy high build primer total boat from Jamestown, it was tough to mix, but other than that seems good at a good price. Got a final sanding with 220 then I flip it over and get start on the topsides again. I had to run the bottom paint a lot higher than I wished to, for cosmetic reasons. Had to fair some of the mahogany strips a bit. Going to paint the bottom with two part off white then a boot, hope that will be enough smoke and mirrors to compensate for the high bottom paint. 




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From all of my years observing other boats, and especially where they paint the waterline, I have concluded that a vast majority put it too low.  If the bottom is anti-fouling, I observe almost everyone paints it too low.  I would rather see some bottom paint, than slime on the topside paint.  Your situation is cosmetic.  I  still like it higher than most.  It never seems to look poorly.  You might find in the end that you actually like your decision.

Getting closer.

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Looking good Scott and appreciate the thoughts (and Graham's/others) as I'm about finished fairing Amanda's bottom, and considering paints. The BH19, you built so fine, & I enjoyed for a while, is still sailing in WA state. R

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  • 4 weeks later...

Got the back seat in, transom brackets and a bunch of no show stuff over the last few weeks. Might actually get this thing in the water this summer. Still haven't made the rub rails or the mahogany cap that goes all the way around the top deck and the transom. It will cap off the rub rails down the sides also. But as we all know once the hull is done there still is masts, rigging, trailer, rudder and countless small things!






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  • 2 months later...

Really nice build Scott. My first boat was an abandoned 14' strip planked ob skiff my uncle "rescued" from Jamaica Bay NY in 1952, hauled to NJ, and I spent winters caulking, sanding & painting to have a good boat for the summers with an old 7.5 hp Elgin OB that you had to hold a button down on the recoil starter to engage it. Lots of fun days on Jersey's Metedeconk River. Happy new build!

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