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Building a Two Paw 8 for Trailer Camping


Don Silsbe

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I installed inspection ports in my nesting Spindrift so I’d have a more or less waterproof chamber to store a few lightweight items like a small first aid kit,  the registration papers and the very rarely used AA battery powered navigation lights that clip on the bow and stern. I wouldn’t load them up as it would defeat the purpose of a flotation chamber.

 

The inspection ports are pretty pretty cheap and easy to install, but you can always do it later if you choose. 

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I already have a sealable access compartment up forward for stuff like that.  It’s just that I put those ports in a dinghy I built a long time ago.  Always wondered why I did, since I almost never went in there.  It is easier to reinforce and cut the holes now, which is why I’m asking.  I think I’m gonna skip it.

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Well, if I’m gonna finish this cutie, I’d better get going.  Cruising with Graham got me inspired again.  I glued in the seat tanks, minus inspection ports.  I was so “inspired”, that I forgot to put reinforcing stringers inside my 4mm seats.  Since I had some scrap 4oz glass, I thought it couldn’t hurt to beef them up a bit.  I used some scrap blue poly tarp to make a pattern.  Today, I bolted the two halves together, and broke out the Quick Fair.  I’m hoping I can get some primer on the interior soon!  Time will tell.

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  • 2 weeks later...

The interior is faired and sanded.  I’m letting the epoxy cure well, before applying the primer.  So, I’m turning my attention to the outside now.  I’ve got my nesting bulkheads sanded and taped.  The blue tape keeps epoxy out of my T-nut attachments.  They will be cut away while the second coat of epoxy is still green.

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What you see in the bottom photo of the bow (along the port side) is damage done by using a Roti-Zip tool to separate the halves.  A hand saw is definitely the way to go— especially one of the new chemically-sharpened ones.  Those don’t have a saw set that is wider than the thickness of the saw.

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I’m getting closer!  Now, I need to drive “up the mountain” to Chick’s, to borrow a cup of epoxy (or two).  I see that the slot for the center Quick Connect fitting is between 1/16” and 3/32” more open than the outboard attachments.  I think I’m gonna “shim” it with a layer of glass tape (and epoxy, of course).  Or should I use plastic shims after paint?

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Thrillsbe, looking great. I may retrofit the Suzy J with the new joining hardware. Looks pretty slick. A t trick for the next person.....They sell craft foam at michaels that is about the same as the kerf on a handsaw. It supports the bulkhead gap but can be cut like butter when doing the magician's trick.

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This morning at 4:30, after the customary call to nature, I lay back down for a couple more winks.  But the “ducks started quacking”.  ???This is what we call it when you want to go back to sleep, but thoughts start rolling through your head and there’s no way you’re going to get those last few winks.  This morning, it was more like geese. I realized that it would be easier to do the final fitting of my Quick Connect hardware now, before fitting the keel.  Everything fit perfectly, except for the center fitting in the fore-aft plane.  In the third photo you can see that the male part is not fitting flush with its mate.  So, I spent most of the day fitting, shimming, refitting, re-shimming until everything was perfect.  The third from last photo shows the final fit and my stainless shim-washers.  I used Quick Fair to form a platform.  I will trim it all in a little while, before it gets too hard.  By the end of the day, I got pretty good at putting her together and taking her apart.  These parts are going to be awesome to use!

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