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Core Sound 20 Mk. 3 #22 - Essex Fells, NJ


NowWeTryItMyWay
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Was inspired by the WaterTribe Ultra Marathon to make some progress here.  

 

Mostly finished now with several bench projects, including tiller + rudder assembly, centerboard, and locker tops and coamings.  Also got the hull panels fully assembled, wired together, and did the unfolding ritual last night; now my pile of wood is vaguely boat shaped.  Unfolding was exciting due to my failure to account for the height of hanging light fixtures in the shop, which meant some ladder work in the middle of the process.

 

Time-lapse video of my unfolding adventure here.

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Am getting ready to fillet and glass the keel, and have a quick question for those that have gone before.

 

At this point, the keel and chines are wired together, but the inside and outside of the hull are bare wood.  BH1 and BH2 are coated/sealed with epoxy and sanded, ready for fillets or paint.  The way I read the instructions, you dry-fit BH1 and BH2 to make the hull take its proper shape, then you fillet and glass the keep tip to transom with BH1 and BH2 in there (so it keeps the shape), and then a step or two later you fillet and glass the joints between BH1 and BH2 and the hull.

 

My question is, if I fillet and glass the keel with BH1 and BH2 poking into the bottom of it, there will be (or, will there be?) bare wood spots where the bottom edge of either BH is touching the hull (or touching the stringers), and I won't be able to get epoxy in there later because it will be stuck in place because the bottom corner is now a part of the bow / keel fillets?  

 

Should I first paint a coat or two of neat epoxy up the lines on the hull where the bulkheads will go, and let that cure, before I stick the bulkheads back in and make the keel fillet? Something else? Or is this just not an actual problem in practice?

 

I saw some build logs from others who first did the fillets without installing the bulkheads, this seems like another option but then I'd have to cut off the bottom tips of the bulkheads.

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If you are happy with the shape of your hull; then I would recommend not removing the bulkheads. 

 

Prior to filleting, if you wet the area with unthickened epoxy, it will wick into those plywood edges that you are concerned about anyway.  Even if epoxy doesn't wick completely into those edges, it still isn't an issue since (as Steve pointed out), those edges will be effectively isolated from moisture.

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  • 1 month later...

Have made some progress in the last few weeks. Glassed the keel (inside), broke and then fixed my hanging knees, made several other errors and recovered, attached the transom, framed out the centerboard trunk and coated the inside with an epoxy / graphite mixture so it will hopefully have less friction with the CB.  Also have attached approximately 800 cleats to the top of interior members, almost ready to dry-fit the inside components of the boat.

 

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  • 1 month later...

Have made some progress lately on internal members, centerboard, and centerboard trunk.

 

Don't have the internal structures glued-in yet, but I finished the centerboard trunk piece today so I think that will come soon!

 

Have coated both the inside of the centerboard trunk, plus the entire centerboard, with graphite + epoxy mixture to try and minimize friction / binding in the rotation of the board.  It starts off very shiny and the sands down to dull grey.

 

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  • 5 months later...

FWIW, I decided that since those lockers never see the sun, I checked coating them off my list. I don't regret it. I did give then a coat of clear epoxy but that's it.  What I do regret not coating is the storage aft of the bunks. I wish I had coated that. It's pretty dark back there and coating now will suck.

 

Your work looks nice!

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Your boat is looking really nice, you are in the fun phase.  
The spring sticks are a good idea, I on the other hand,  with a bit of Neanderthal technology,  just shot sheetrock screws.  When I was nearly finished I had  a friend that is rabid on metal detecting sniff the boat looking for errant screws.  

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I guess there is 2 schools of thought, I think it makes it easier to find things inside,  easier to wipe it out (easier to see the grit an stuff).  

The other thought is you can easily see what is going on under the epoxy coating. 


I painted everything under deck on my CS20.3 with Sherwin Williams Tile Clad, 2 part epoxy.  On the current build I am painting but using Total Boat BilgeCoat.  

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I have stated this many times that I prefer to leave my lockers unpainted. I like the look of the natural color and enjoy it when I open them. If there if any deterioration going on with the wood I will see it immediately rather than being masked by the paint, not to mention that it is one less job to do. I have never noticed that it is too dark to find my stuff.

 

This is a subject where there are no right or wrong answers.

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  • 1 year later...

Wanted to post an update on this build which has taken a bit longer than I had planned :)

 

This summer we have made major progress.  All internal structures & bulkheads are installed, cockpit sole is installed, deck framing is installed, and the port / starboard cockpit seats are installed.  Next steps are aft thwart/seat, boomkin + transom stiffener, and sheer strakes.

 

-Erik

 

 

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