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Ocracoke 24 #7


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On February 20 2013 I started my Ocracoke 24. Five years later I finally have finished.  I want to first thank Graham for all his help and beautiful lines on this boat. 

This boat is all composite. Core cell foam and fiberglass. To those who are thinking of building the 24 I strongly suggest the outboard bracket. The boat runs just fantastic through the water.

It is powered by a 150 Suzuki. Only had it in the water for 2 weeks. Saw 46 mph with four people and 35 gallons of fuel. That was at 4800 rpm. Fast enough for me.

Thanks to everyone on this site for there ideas and inspiration to keep going.

Unfortunately work commitments kept me from the Mess About this year but hope to be there next year






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Thanks for the kind words. The credit is really goes to Graham and his sharp eye for shapes. 

Everything is foam No fasteners. Just glued together. Started with the stations and attached the foam with fiberglass nails. Glassed inside and out like a conventional plywood boat. All the fiberglass was vacuum in place

24 Glass 001.JPG


24 020.JPG


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Unfortunately no running pictures. The weather was terrible and time was short. I can tell you that the ride was fantastic. 

I am a marine surveyor and I ride in a lot of boats. I was most impressed going downhill. The boat just surfs and is easy to drive.

I have the QL trim tabs made by Volvo. I would never use conventional tabs again. They are extremely responsive and have very little drag.

I am going to ask Santa for the automatic module that levels the boat automatically.

The rear seat was a major benefit of the outboard bracket. Makes the cockpit huge. I would suggest the bracket to anyone building a 24. 

I added my bracket when I was more than half done. It also is composite so aluminum to blister. Graham was extremely helpful with the dimensions. I was worried since I changed the center of gravity moving the engine back 30".  Thankfully it all worked out.

Thank you for your kind words


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That is the million dollar question. I think all up with 35 gallons of fuel it weighs about 2000 lbs. Somewhat less than an Okume plywood boat. It does not feel heavy going through the water.

I have been following your build it is also very well done. Watching all the builds inspired my to sand just a little more, and add a few finishing touches. 

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I sliced the foam into strips. I made the strips as big as the curvature allowed. At the the flare the pieces were only 1" wide and at the chine 3" wide. 2,  4 x 8 sheets went on the bottom aft. I glued each piece to the next using Gorilla glue. I used to use thickened epoxy but only small batches could be made before it kicked off. The Gorilla glue was fantastic. The foam filled all the little voids between the layers and was easily sanded off. You can see in one picture small pieces of 1/4" plywood (sealed with packing tape) These held the strips inline. All of it nailed together with fiberglass nails. Lots of people on this site use the fiberglass staples.  

Then it is just a matter of fiber glassing the exterior like a wood boat and fair everything smooth.  I used 3 layers of 17 oz cloth and one layer of 1.5 oz mat. The center line is solid glass 9/16" thick. The stem is added later as you can see in the photo. The grey material is Penske core or they call it Cosa board now.

Extremely labor intensive. However the boat is fairly light and solid.


24 planked 4.jpg


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Beautiful job! Congratulations, it looks professionally built in every way.

i have a question for you. I am 3 years into building the same boat, Hull #13. I haven’t posted in a while but I am getting ready to order an Armstrong bracket. I am much mor e interested in building a bracket. I would like to avoid the aluminum corrosion issue and I can make a custom bracket blend into the hull lines better. Does Graham have plans for the bracket or did you design it yourself?



John McFadden

Charleston SC

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Yes indeed Graham will help you. I cut through the transom and attached the "beams" to the stringers and first bulkhead. The trick is allow enough buoyancy in the tank to support the weight of the motor moving back 30". The tank is tapered upward 2" per foot.

Graham has all the calculations. I added the diagonal braces and just glued them to the transom. Be sure to allow for your trim tabs and deck drains. More work put it never blisters. It added a month of elapsed time but it was well worth it. I also incorporated the fender rail into to it for a very slick look.

The Armstrong bracket will work just fine but I like the seamless look into the fender rail.






The sea in the back is the best part


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They are QL trim tabs made by Volvo.  They are fantastic. Less drag electric so no oil. They react quickly.  I have seen these on many boats . When they first came out there were some issues but they are much better now. You can get a module that will keep the boat in perfect pitch automatically. I am asking Santa for the module. 

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