Leo De Bruyn Posted July 29, 2018 Report Share Posted July 29, 2018 Hi all, I am building a short shot, and I intend to finish the frame with some danish teak oil before skinning. However, the climate I live in is cool and moist enough that I have some concern about mold forming inside the boat over time-- especially during the winter time. I will definitely be using it often, including in cold weather, so it may be damp on the inside on a regular basis in cool conditions, which is a recipe for mold. I have read that the folks over at Sea Wolf in Seattle spray a borax solution over their frame and let it dry before applying oil to their frames, and this is supposed to prevent mold. I know that borax does kill mold and prevent it from growing, and is not really dangerous to humans unless you eat it. Unlike bleach, there are no fumes and it persists and inhibits future mold growth. I guess you might also spray some of this into the boat if the skin ever has any issues on the inside. Has anyone had mold issues? Have you tried something like this? What are your thoughts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kudzu Posted July 30, 2018 Report Share Posted July 30, 2018 No experience with borax, but I have been know to rinse a boat with a little diluted bleach. I have heard for the borax treatment before just never felt the need but it probably doesn't hurt anything either. Salt water is from what I read a good preventative too. I have reskinned a few an there is usually black stains at the bottom of the bow, maybe at the stern, but I have never found rot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfrankel Posted August 1, 2018 Report Share Posted August 1, 2018 In the woodworking world, the conventional wisdom is that a light oil rub gives wood almost no protection from water. Why is the conventional wisdom different in the the SOF world? I built a Dave Gentry Chuckanut with a huge open cockpit that I did not oil, and a Kudzucraft Ravenswood that I did oil. The Chuckanut gets a lot of water splashing in. The Ravenswood not as much. After about 5 years of regular summer use, the Chuckunut has not deteriorated at all. Nor has the Ravenswood, although it too has experienced its fair share of water. The Ravenswood looks a little cooler when you are climbing in because the wood is a little darker. I am now building a Cape Falcon F2 tandem. The instructional video confirms my experience. Cape Falcon shows you how to oil the frame, but the video says that step is included because builders want it, and you should feel free to skip the step because it is unnecessary. My conclusion: don't oil and the borax-bleach questions are moot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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