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Rigging Thoughts


Don Silsbe

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My good friend Amos Swogger is about to embark on the rigging of his CS20.3.  I wanted to share a couple of thoughts with him and the rest of the forum about how I rigged my boat.  I hope that you all will bring forward some of your own ideas here, so Amos can have a good idea pool to draw from.

 

For my Bay River Skiff, the two objectives in designing the rigging were 1) ease of set-up and 2) minimization of the use of stainless fittings.  My previous boat took nearly an hour to rig at the launch site.  It now takes me about 10 minutes.  Stainless steel is nice, and all,, but it is noisy, and hard on painted surfaces.  I favor the use of Spectra lines and lashing blocks.  The following photos are how I executed my mizzen sheet system.  I used Buzz Line, because it is easy on the hands.  The yellow balls at the ends of the pigtails are my attachment system to the transom.  On the transom, I have some wire-formed eye straps.  (Don't use the other kind, as they are hard on the line.)  To attach, I simply make a loop, and pass the ball through.  To relase, I yank on the tail (last photo), to open up the loop.   I clip the SS snap to a soft hackle loop that is on the mizzen's clew.  The whole rig terminates using B&B's  fairlead/clamcleat system. 

 

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My mainsheet system is simpler, but more costly.  I use Buzz Line for it, too.  There is only one block on the line.  it has a clip lashed to it, for attaching to the clew of the mainsail.  The other ends thread through a pair of Ronstan RF-58's on the middle seat.  I've tried other ways of securing the mainsheet, but these work best for me.

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Really cool Don, thanks for taking the time to put these series of pictures together.  Very helpful. 

 

I actually haven't started the rigging yet (varnishing right now), so I can incorporate these ideas when I start. 

 

Don, you are awesome. 

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Mike,

This sort of threading is allowed with this size.  You would be correct, if it were an Orbit 20.  But these are 30’s.  The 30’s have more configurations available than their baby brother.   You can even use a shackle with these, but I prefer lashings.

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Thanks for the ideas Don. I have added a fold-down bimini to the aft cockpit of my boat and need a good way to get the block above it when it is folded down and under the tiller. Lashings could be a better option than spring base stand up blocks. By the way, in gentle breezes on a sunny day, or when anchored and camping, the aft bimini is a great little addition. It unfolds forward to the mizzen mast and covers the whole area nicely but still allows for steering and using the outboard motor. I have to convert my tiller to a hinged tiller though to make it more convenient.

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Sadly the onset of winter weather has made pulling the boat out of its garage less than ideal. As soon as I have a fine day I will raise the masts and photograph the bimini in situ. Basically, I just bought a cheap three bow bimini on ebay and then shortened two of the legs until it fitted where I wanted it to go. I also removed the two short legs at the rear as they would get in the way of folding. I figured that it was worth a try and not a lot lost if it didn't work out. As it happens, on the one day we took it out on the lake it worked very nicely. I reckon that the bimini covering the aft cockpit and a "boom" tent covering the hatch and back to the mizzen mast, we could have a cozy little area when camping.

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