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Capt Bones Core Sound 17 Mk 3 #14 Kit Build?

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OK, I now have the Cypress sprit plugs cut.  I have the option of leaving them at 2 full inches or  shaving down to 1.5" that the plans relate.  Then as I look at them deciding the round over is confusing me.  Further, what is a proper finish for sprits.  I am asking the group these questions.

  • 1.5" or 2" sprits?
  • 1/4" or 1/2" round-over?
  • What length and how much taper?
  • What length are the ends rounded?
  • How is it best to finish sprits?

We will be starting on the centerboard system this weekend and have finished both sides of the rudder blade and will refine the trailing edge in the morning.

Thanks for your comments in advance.





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I feel uncomfortable not knowing what I am doing building this boat.  Being such a novice, I have little feel yet for what is a good technique or a bad one or what step should follow the next.  I am u

Actually, to my way of thinking, hull # 14 is the Core Sound 17 MK3.Bones.  What with all the ideas and effort to constantly make an excellent vessel better I suppose the designer does reserve the rig

It is an amazing boat to sail regardless of revision and or  sailing conditions.  Keep that in mind as you go along.  It has exceeded our expectations by  along way.      Kind Regards 

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The sprits are shaped but not finished for lack of decision on what to use.  Suggestions welcomed.  Alan sent some updated assembly sheets Friday, but we only have 8.5x11printer paper and the best size is 11x17.  We had to wait for Monday to get proper size copies made that I could read easier. Aw, you gotta love small southern towns trying to do things in town on a weekend. 


So today we threw a bunch of parts into the boat near there correct locations just to see them and what they may look like installed.  Kinda of a quasi dry fitting.  Here is what that looks like.IMG_20180606_083422552.thumb.jpg.b59f456952c9f99012a8256e79e19bb7.jpgIMG_20180606_083500077.thumb.jpg.041fb1f508e65e4d0ccb06428ff1a353.jpg


Those parts will be set aside and the centerboard trunk assembled and installed as it seems most interior parts orbit around the trunk and ballast tank for a bit.  I am not good at estimating installation times but it looks like a day or two to get the trunk glassed in and over the weekend to install either the ballast tank and/or several support parts.  It feels like three steps forward this week while trying to gauge where the one step back will occur.  Adelante.

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If I glass or epoxy something in my temperature controlled metal roofed barn, when finished, is it alright to turn off AC and allow it to bake dry in the high heat and reduced humidity?  I have experimented with samples that suggest I can fillet, glass and apply the two epoxy top coats in one 12 hr period with seemingly good results and reap a nice savings in time simply by turning the AC off after each application and back on before applying again.


i have the cypress sprits shaped.  I wish to apply a finish.  Because of there specific activity, (flexing and rubbing against sail) is there a preferred finish?



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Yes, raising the temperature will speed up the cure.  Carbon composites, like spars, are actually baked in an autoclave. (I don't suggest baking) You can recoat with epoxy in as little as 3-4 hours on a warm day.  Of all the procedures in making these boats nothing saves time like hot recoating.  And when the time you are saving is sanding, well, what more is there to say?

I used Spar Varnish and added leather chafe gear where the sprit laps the mast. I don't use epoxy under varnish on solid wood parts.

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I joined this group to share my build experience of my Core Sound 17 Mark 3-2/Bones.  Thus far I have failed my own mandate.  Part of my failure stems from the intimidating knowledge this group has and how little I had to offer in return.  Part of my waywardness is from absolute ignorance of building boats and my even less intuitiveness. Heck, I don’t even know what I don’t know as Alan pointed out recently. Another part of my missing in action is being a little tired after spending five to eight hours a day seven days a week out in the boat barn.  However, these are all simply excuses for not prioritizing this list.

I am here now. Ready to participate.  I will start with now and try to share pictures and be diligent with routine entries regarding this challenging journey.  Feel free to jump in anytime to ask questions or comment. 

Oddly, at least to me, the closer to build completion the more questions I have.

This build started the first week in May, (with a month off in between for medical emergencies), and after what seems a lifetime of build time, sprinkled with countless errors, re-dos, gotchas, head scratching, and epoxy ladened clothes to crunchy to wear, we have reached a point where the boat is upside down and the first coat of paint applied.  Gazing rapture-like at the freshly painted hull it is pleasing to note there are no gapping wounds in the bottom, other than the center-board slot.  I am gob-smacked that the bottom looks smooth and fair under the paint with only a small area at the bow with pinholes that needs to be revisited.

Alan told me this was a pretty hard build for a novice boat builder. That seems to be true. Everything in the build was or is new to me, framing, taping, fillets, cutting, butting, glassing, peel-ply and now painting.  It is at the end of each stage a certain degree of comfort is realized only to start over learning a new skill.  This will not be a perfect boat like many in this group have built, Yet I am pleased with my stutter step effort of three steps forward one back.  Alan also pointed out. “It’s wood, epoxy and glass, nothing that can’t be fixed.” I have done my share of fixing and re-fixing since May. 

This boat, my boat, will be ready for the next Everglades Challenge and challenges beyond.  My eye has always been toward performance and learning how to sail a cat-ketch rig and as I sit and admire the bottom, My eye is cast toward mast building and rigging not too far away.

When asking what boat finishes to use, Alan said definitely, poly paints.  My first ever digression from a B&B suggestion has recently occurred for three reasons.  The lack of color selection in poly paints has always chaffed, therefore I am using Kirby paint products with infinite color selection.  Further, time is of the essence.  And I reason enamel will go on quick and easy with, hopefully, a lower learning curve then poly. 

No doubt this decision will bring some comments.  With luck some comments will circle around how to apply enamel correctly.  My first painting effort has left brush marks and lapping marks on the bottom. It feels like the paint went on too thick.  I want the paint on the bottom smooth for optimal performance.  I am unsure how to accomplish this. 

I have followed many of your excellent build dialogues and gleaned much information. While not sure how my contributions may be of value, sharing now feels like the responsible thing to do.

Darn, it seems my photo upload failed.

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We're all newbies in the beginning, and continue to learn all the way through our first build. And second. And third. And---well, you get the idea. Pretty soon some other new guy will be following your posts for advice. Keep 'em coming. Also remember that for every 10 builders, there are 11 ways to accomplish a task. And we're all opinionated!


These photos can be frustrating sometimes! Tell us what is happening---or not happening and someone will have an answer to the problem.

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Don't feel too bad that you are using enamel paint.  Two-part paint has amazing hardness and durability, but it is expensive and challenging to apply.  You end up having to waste whatever is unused (or even worse, stop in the middle of painting to mix up more), and it isn't really fun to wear a respirator.  My paint jobs contains every blemish in the book.  So feel good about your decision.


Here is a link about photos:  


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Capt Kyle, my EC co-capt, drove the fifty miles to check out the progress and too help on the boat. I enjoy it when he can be here as he and I get a lot of noodling done that always saves me time and effort on various fronts.

I think I sorted out the photo issue.  These pics are of the bottom with one coat of paint.  Unfortunately in my hurry to learn paint, I forgot to put on the keel rubrail which we had prepped and ready in another barn bay.  So we sanded down the paint to fiberglass laid the prepped wood rail and put the metal skid rail on the wood and used a few holes in the metal to guide us where to fasten down the wood to hull without having to fill holes in wood after the glue and fillets dried.

We also got the rudder blade installed into the rudder head temporarily and determined the tiller should have the capability to swing up on a pivot bolt and probably also be pinned down as well. We also built our tiller spacer blocks.  Decided, being lazy and not wanting to take off rudder, there should be a hole aft on the blade for a line to hold the blade up during trailer transport. It was decided the tabernacles should be fiberglassed completely so that project was started.  In addition the mast tubes were laid out and the detail sheet stared at for about an hour trying to figure out why I had left over tube parts.  Sigh.  They are the bow sprits--duh.  We also evaluated  my current trailer and determined it was useable for this boat with some easy mods and added rollers.  If these pics work today I will take pics in the morning of todays efforts and then pics tomorrow after day is done and be back on track for posting pics concurrently with posts.




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enjoying your thread.  I avoided the two part paint as well in favor of a traditional oil enamel from Marshals Cove and appear to have gotten away with it.  Just couldn't accept the limited colors available in the two part paints. Only advice I can offer is that the systems three water based silver tip primer worked well as a base for my enamel.  Dries quickly, no stink, and the Marshals Cove enamel liked to stick to it.   A lot to be said for using water based primer and saving the stinky stuff for the top coat.   

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Randy, thank you for your comment and sharing.  I had intended to use a primer also. I asked George Kirby and he asked back, what epoxy system I used.  When I told him I did not know but got it from B&B he said. "Put the paint on the boat.", meaning without primer.  I have, it works, I'm happy.  As an aside.  Even without experience I marveled at the apparent quality of the paint  in the first few strokes.  It was even more obvious the quality of the finish product  was solely in the hands of the operator.

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Yesterdays work pics not including trailer demolition.  Keel rub rail from front and back view installed and painted.  Still struggling with paint but it will come.  The rudder system assembled and ready to take apart for finish application and then hardware install. Partial glassing of tabernacles.  Playing with mast parts trying to figure out how the thin, small sloppy fitting top is to be held straight while gluing or if the fiberglass filler rings will hold it correctly in position. Can't assemble main mast until we use the tabernacle  section to confirm tabernacle is in correct position on the bulkhead. Comments?






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Looks like things are progressing nicely.

If I understand your question about fitting the top section into the lower tube. As long as the fiberglass filler rings are built up correctly, the parts will be aligned automatically. As you wrap the poxy saturated strip around the upper section, it should build up evenly all around the tubing. The trick is knowing how many wraps to apply. I guessed on mine and it came out almost perfectly. I don't remember how many layers I wrapped, though.

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Fitting the tubes together can be a bit fiddly. We came up with another way one day when we were forced to join two tubes very quickly to get a job done and didn't have time to do collars and sanding and fitting and glue up. The method is to wrap the "inner" tube in some glass then lay two  pieces of tape in an "X" across the bottom. This is done while wetting out the glass and then the tube is just shoved into the larger tube. We dry fir the glass to make sure it would go in but just barely then when it was pushed in the epoxy took up the rest and the tubes stayed nicely concentric. As i recall we braced the larger tube against something like a tree and then tapped it in the last few bits to the mark and then sliced off the ends of the glass that flowered out. Here is a picture of the method. The one down side is if you want to run wires in the mast you have to bust through the two layers of tape with a rod afterward but that is not so bad.


New method of joinging mast tubes.pdf




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Ok then.  Thank you Chick for the explanation and of course to Alan for having another rabbit in the hat.

Randy, good to know.  I have no compelling reason to paint the mast.  Though I am open to possible reasons to do so other then it looks nice in the short term.

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