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Speaking of heads, a decent alternative, IMO


Oyster

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I thought I would share this with the folks building the shorter versions of the Bluejacket. I wanted a more open cabin arrangement in the back. So this is what I did. I did loose a few inches in the cockpit even after ending up with a hull that finished off at 23' 6" LOA.  For sure I am not changing the desired designs. But if you can incorporate this into your cabin build, and it fits your expanded  needs for guests riding with you, I will recommend it. It takes a minimum of 36 inches to accomplish this, turning the toilet forward. I am using the Thedford Curved model, with built in battery freshwater flush and internal freshwater holding tank.  I mounted the toilet with a Thedford mounting base for securing the setup to the deck.

 

You can make your own curtain out of a shower curtain or purchase your desired fabric and sew it. I used the canvas button snaps for hanging it overhead. I used a simple screen door hook to secure it open, which closes up the back window.  I did allow my curtain to end up behind the fold up seat top, which holds things in place for  privacy. The front panel or knee wall for the lack of proper descriptions just lifts out from the small cleats fastened to the deck. When upright, it locks into its own self under the seat top by the seat cleat and support and at the ends against the end supports on the bulkhead and dinette seat backs.  If you need more pictures, let me know. Its a simple setup and works like a champ. Disregard the upright cleat that's showing at the rear now. That was just for working out the proper location on the back side. I have removed it.

 

 

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Hopefully this will help. I have only one cleat in the middle of the upright that jams it against the two in the back that's located in the offset position from the front. I also have two cleats at the top, and opposing sides. The supports stops the panel from going back too. When the seat it down, the front support locks in the panel securely.  When I lift the seat up, the panel naturally falls forward and lifts out.  I could probably use a couple more at the deck fitted loosely at the ends, if I have a problem down the road keeping the panel straight

 

 

I use a hook located on an angle, which keeps the seat upright and the hook will not fall out of the hook eye. I also use a hardwood, had a piece of ok for that, and will probably put one down the middle. I still have the cosmetics to do on the parts. As a side note, thanks Mr. Frank for making it so easy to load pictures directly to the posts.

hook to hold seat bottom .JPG

seat support.JPG

knee wall upright cleat .JPG

knee wall front cleat.JPG

knee wall cleats in back .JPG

overlap support locks in .JPG

seat hinge.JPG

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