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Pete McCrary

A Two Paw 7 build, "Catnip" . .

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My Core Sound 20 Mk 3 needs a gentle tender.  A Graham designed tender (B & B Two Paw 7 kit), should be just-the-thing.  The shipping crate arrived last week and has been unpacked and inventoried.  All pieces (approximately 50 present and identified)!  Here's the packing crate -- ready to open:



All pieces laid out in the shop:



Alan sent me a dimensional drawing specifing the profiles and positions for a construction cradle:



The shipping box will be used for materials.  This build will be without any deadlines or target dates.  Purely recreational.  The forum will be kept posted.


Forum members helped name the tender for Chessie.  From lots of very good suggestions, "Catnip" came from Steve.  Annie and I liked the name and it seemed quite apropo -- so we went with that.  Thanks, Steve.


PS -- Our kitties, Paige & Lucy also like the name.






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I checked with my cats, Boomer, Mitty Kitty, and Molly. They like the name, too.

Good 'ol Alan! Always there to help! That's one of the reasons that B&B is the BEST.

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The first glue job is to add stiffener cleats (#A5) to the nesting Blks (##5 & 6).  Dry-fitting shown below.  Many more clamps (about 16) added for the glueing.  The lead weights are just to keep everything flat.




Next, the two bulkheads will be bolted together (until the boat is completed) with a dozen or so tiny cardboard spacers lightly glued between (and around) their edges.  The spacers will provide a uniform space between the bulkheads just large enough for the saw kerf when the fully assembled boat is finally sawed in half.


The bulkhead sides, which will face each other, will have 3 coats of neat epoxy applied at ~ 12 hr intervals.  When fully cured, the two bulkheads will be bolted together (in perfect previously indexed alignment) jwith the sacrificial cardboard spacers in place.

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After gluing the Horizontal Beams (PN A5) to the nesting bulkheads (PN 5 & 6), I realized that I hadn't rounded over the lower edge -- and that the beams were too narrow so that I couldn't round them over with a router.  Fortunately, I had a pair of tools (seldom used) that can easily trim a 45 degree bevel (on a square) edge from 1/16" to 1/4".  Then the [resulting] two 135 degree edges can easily be rounded over with an 80 grit sanding block.



The tools are by "Veritas" (with a P label) and stamped "MADE IN ENGLAND."  The 4 ends take bites of 1/16", 1/8", 3/16", and 1/4".  If the grain is fairly straight, two pulling strokes (on the square edge) using each [successive] width, provides a slightly rounded 1/4" radius bevel.  A sanding block does the rest.



The top edge of the beams can be rounded over with a hand-held router after the boat is fully assembled.  Today I'll place the 3/4" square cardboard spacers on one of the nesting bulkheads with contact cement.



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I can't remember -- it may have been the WoodenBoat Magazine catalog.  But with the patent-holder's name and Made-in-England you should be able to find it.

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Lehigh Valley sells them, for one.  I wonder if Klingspor in Arden doesn’t have ‘em.  But you can borrow mine, to try them out.

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Today, Catnip's cradle completed.  I've tried to keep it simple.  It's made to be clamped (or screwed) to my work table.  The table is an ordinary 8' folding table, raised ~ 7" to "workbench" height and with a piece of 3/4" x 30" x 96" plywood added to its top.  For this project, I've also added a 1/2" x 44" x 96" pressed-woodchip board.  This makes a heavier work table.


The cradle is made of a 1 x 8 x 96 "straight back", two lengths of 2 x 4s, and 12mm pressed-woodchip hull-bottom cross-sections.  I had planned to use the shipping-crate pressed-woodchip panels -- but they were just 6mm.  The assembled cradle weighs in at 18 lbs.



The pieces.



The setup.



Assembled and ready for use.  But with a small problem.


I made the inside dimension between the hull-bottom cross-sections at 48".  However, the cross-sections require  bevels: 12 & 10 degrees, forward and aft respectively.  The higher (outboard) edges should be separated by 48" per the plans.  Relocating the cross-members only requires backing out six 2" dry-wall screws.  The height of the cross-section is set at 3.5" (scaled from the plans) which should allow Catnip's bottom (at lowest point) to just touch the straight-back.  The slot (and notches) were cut to accempodate the 3/4" keel.


Now, the fun part starts. 

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A bunch of pieces are now together in 3-D ...




Now, turn her over.


Centerline cable-tied and ready to open.



Viola ...   Right-side-up and in her cradle.




These gaps were closed with wire pulled much tighter thru a couple of new holes.  Photos tomorrow.



A centerline photo showing a slight "twist" raising the stbd-top corner of the transom about 1/4" high.  Not enough to worry about per Alan.



Another view.


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I'm getting ready to glue on the gunwales.  I decided to use faux transom braces so that there would be a solid purchase into which to screw the gunwales, fore & aft.  The photoes show packaging tape on the ends of each brace. The bevels (matching the extension of the sheer lines) were easily cut with a hand saw before dry-fitting the gunwales.


The bow transom brace and closeup of the starboard-side interface:




The transom brace and port-side intersection:




On the starboard-side closeup you can see where the laminates are bolted together.


After breaking her wrist [ice storm Dec 2016] my Annie doesn't have the hand strength to be my mixer.  So, I'll have to mix and spread thickened epoxy all myself.  I'm going to take advantage of the next few days which should be fairly cold.  That should give me a little more "pot life" for the epoxy job.  Annie will be able to hold up the aft end as I start the glueing and screwing from the bow.


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