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Riggs

OC20/B in Biloxi MS USA

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Just to add to PAR's comments on wood. The reason why I specify SYP over fir on stringers is that first of all, it is readily available and cheaper. They are similar in durability and strength with a slight nod to fir. The main reason I like pine is that fir is stiffer which is great for spars but nasty if you have to bend it around the hull, especially sheer clamps which have a lot of bend and twist. 

 

Fir has a nasty habit of failing at the point of maximum bend a day or two after it is installed. It will show up as a small crack across the grain and then peel along the grain. 

 

Pine will sometime develop crooks along the board as it cures. If you sight down the board it can sometimes look like a snake. I almost never buy from a box store where they have a high turnover. I usually go to a place that sells to contractors or a wholesale outlet. Rather than dig through the new stock I prefer to search through a dusty stack because it is well seasoned and it has settled to it's final shape. We mostly want to bend the wood so a long fair bend could be desirable.

 

I do not rigidly stick to my shopping list. I might find that the 1 x 4 stack is junk but there might be some nice 1 x 6's or 1 x 8's. I do not mind if I buy more than my immediate needs because I will use the rest later. The next level up from construction grade is called "C and Better". You can usually find nice clear boards in that stack. If you want to save some money and do not mind putting in some extra effort,  look in the construction stack. At first glance you will notice that the boards are full of knots and suddenly you will find a clear board. As you study the board closer you will find that there is a corner missing at one end because the board ran outside the edge of the tree and it was downgraded to construction grade. I do not usually do this for pine but they also use eastern white spruce for construction around here which is perfect for small boat spars. We cannot buy premium spruce at any price locally so I have dug through a lot of spruce stacks.  

 

 

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Thanks again. The only reason i was looking at the cypress was a fellow locally said it was flexible and folks round here used to use it in that kinda situation. i can find SYP in clear and machine for a much cheaper cost so that is what i will be doing. Working on the chine battons at the minite. 

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I use a local lumber store that nearly and solely for contractors. Their stock is better, though their retail prices are usually higher than the big box stores, I'm getting wholesale. I too scrounge for white spruce for spars. SYP stacks can be a gold mine if you know what to look for and can mill them down. These long and wide boards have to come from older, denser trees, which means you'll find clean, straight stock after you've gone through several pieces. I also have some local mills, that I can beat up the owners for some good stuff, occasionally. Learn what to look for, what you want and need in a particular board and a little about species physical properties and you can save a lot of money, if you use a fair bit of timber. Hell, I got my other half trained in less than a few visits and she catches as many good ones as I any more. It's not hard and will seem obvious in short order. Over the years, these techniques have likely saved me 50% in limber costs. Lastly quantity counts, so if you can work out deals on "culls" and good size stacks of material, they'll give you better prices.

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So the bottom is on and am now looking forward. What is the thoughts on using that same old heart pine from said roof deck for the shear clamp. It is old but strait and can be made to fit the bill. Other than that the bottom went on very well and it is really starting to look like a boat

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Eye am watchin you :)

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11 hours ago, Jay Lancaster said:

You have a very nice bottom, sir.

 

:D thx i am pleased with it myself

 

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Few pics from the build. Took the advice from Designer and used SYP on the shear clamp. Am now starting in on the side planking 

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Thought i would post up a couple pic's of my progress on the batou. Have finished the first of 2 layers of glass on the exterior. Chines and keel have extra layers. First layer is 1.5 oz per sq ft chopped strand which i have sanded the highs of around the chines and keel then filled the mat to the best of my ability at least. I have a few little spots i want to address as can be seen by the blue painters tape then it will get the 10 oz finishing cloth on.  I do hope this is gonna be enough because i have just about had enough of the chopped strand nastyness 🤪  I have hit the bracket with finishing cloth already then applied a coat of plain epoxy to fill the weave and it looks good to me so i am hopefull.  Other than two little hollow spots up in the bow flare area it all looks great to me right now but i have not got it wet yet so fingers crossed.

 

My next thing to overthink is gonna be to build it with a splash rail on the chine or not. I think they look nice but it look's like it might be a bit of work, but i am telling myself i have to install the lifting strakes and a tumblehome bumper so why not just do it all one time. All in all i am very happy with the boat so far. 

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On 4/25/2018 at 10:52 PM, Riggs said:

My next thing to overthink is gonna be to build it with a splash rail on the chine or not. I think they look nice but it look's like it might be a bit of work, but i am telling myself i have to install the lifting strakes and a tumblehome bumper so why not just do it all one time.

 

Riggs, I used a very simple method to build the lifting strakes. It is detailed in my OC20 tread at pg.6 

 

BTW  nice work on your OC20b

 

 

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Nice looking job.  With those built in reverse chines you should not need to add spray rails (add on chines).  That's pretty much redundant if you do.  

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Thx guys

 

lotus i have checked your lifting strakes out and am looking for a piece of angle to try and do the same. It looked a lot easier than the norm :)

 

Jay i agree they would be redundant but i just like the look i guess, still on the fence though

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9 hours ago, Riggs said:

 

 

lotus i have checked your lifting strakes out and am looking for a piece of angle to try and do the same. It looked a lot easier than the norm :)

 

 

 

A plastic or pvc angle will work just the same , or even better because it is easier to trim .

 

I removed the strakes from the mold  and tacked them to the hull at about 24hr later. At that time the epoxy fill is still very flexible to bent , and at front there is some bent to do. So they cured and hardened following the bent of the boat . After another 24 hr. I removed the screws , glued them with thickened epoxey and re screwed the screws in there original holes  . 

 

This was a very straightforward job !

 

Hope this will help 🙂

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On 4/28/2018 at 12:33 AM, Lotus said:

 

 

A plastic or pvc angle will work just the same , or even better because it is easier to trim .

 

I removed the strakes from the mold  and tacked them to the hull at about 24hr later. At that time the epoxy fill is still very flexible to bent , and at front there is some bent to do. So they cured and hardened following the bent of the boat . After another 24 hr. I removed the screws , glued them with thickened epoxey and re screwed the screws in there original holes  . 

 

This was a very straightforward job !

 

Hope this will help 🙂

I was wondering how long you let them cure before bending onto the hull. Thx. I am gonna take a look around and see what i can find in the way of a form and see about getting them made during the week. Finishing cloth is on and now it is time for the real sanding to begin in earnest 

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PVC's added advantage is, the goo and fabric will not like to stick to it, very well, so it's easy to remove. 24 - 36 hours, depending on temperatures, should do. If the cure temperatures are relatively low (high 60's or less), it'll need more time, less if it's hotter.

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2 hours ago, PAR said:

PVC's added advantage is, the goo and fabric will not like to stick to it, very well, so it's easy to remove. 24 - 36 hours, depending on temperatures, should do. If the cure temperatures are relatively low (high 60's or less), it'll need more time, less if it's hotter.

 

 

I just spent a couple hrs wondering around my local Home  Depot then Lowe's and did not find anything that fits the bill. Might have to fabricate something or use wood. Will look around online and see what turns up there

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