Don Silsbe Posted August 17, 2017 Report Share Posted August 17, 2017 As I read this forum, and start to line up my next boat build, I keep coming back to the subject we all love to hate-- sanding. I'd like to ask you all these questions: 1) Which sandpaper do you prefer, and why? We all know that cheap sandpaper is a waste of time and money. The high end stuff is a dream, but costs over a dollar a sheet. Is there a sweet spot between cost and performance? 2) Where do you buy yours? Lately, I've found that my local lumber yard offers good stuff (Norton 3X) at fair prices. The problem with the internet is that there's a wide selection, and no way of touching it or trying out a little bit, before buying 100 sheets. 3) Finally, what's the story with the fancy, non-clogging paper? I hear that it can cause problems with paint. I've had paint problems that I could have blamed on this, but I'm not sure. What's the story there? Why is this so? Is there a good time to use it, and a good time to avoid it? I'm hoping that I can draw from your experiences, before I start buying more of that beloved product for this winter's project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chick Ludwig Posted August 17, 2017 Report Share Posted August 17, 2017 What IS this Winter's project? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Silsbe Posted August 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2017 Probably a Wee Lassie. But tell me about your sandpaper preferences, Chick. What do you use, and why? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chick Ludwig Posted August 18, 2017 Report Share Posted August 18, 2017 I'm a lazy sandpaperer. I use my orbital sander for most everything. Then when the discs begin to wear, I take them off to use where the sander won't reach. I like the Shopsmith brand that come from Lowes. They don't wear too fast or clog too easily. Usually 80 grit-----WAIT-----don't holler so loud! I know i should use a finer grit to finish! Told ya---lazy sanderer. I do admit that you should use a finer grit, especially under varnish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmosSwogger Posted August 20, 2017 Report Share Posted August 20, 2017 I have found Nortons 3x to be much better then 3M''s equivalent product. 3M cloggs more than Norton; Norton's anti-clogging film is far superior and as result sands more aggressively. I haven't found any compatibility issues between the paint or epoxy with the anti-clogging stuff, but I do wipe the surfaces down with an alcohol soaked rag after sanding. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hirilonde Posted August 23, 2017 Report Share Posted August 23, 2017 I never use production paper (sheets) any more. I buy rolls of 2 3/4" wide PSA backed in rolls. I fold small pieces in half or use blocks, dowels and long board as necessary. http://www.onlineindustrialsupply.com/loboab.html They also use their hook & loop or PSA discs and belts. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walt S. Posted August 23, 2017 Report Share Posted August 23, 2017 If I could sand my boat all over again, I would've taken Dave's suggestion. I also like the 3M scotch-brite scrub pads of various grits. I found the very-fine pad to be great between finish coats. For the RO sander, I just use 8-hole 80-grit discs from Home Depot and replace them often. I'm coming to hate production sandpaper. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DustyMerope Posted December 12, 2017 Report Share Posted December 12, 2017 On 8/24/2017 at 4:15 AM, Walt S. said: If I could sand my boat all over again, I would've taken Dave's suggestion. I also like the 3M scotch-brite scrub pads of various grits. I found the very-fine pad to be great between finish coats. For the RO sander, I just use 8-hole 80-grit discs from Home Depot and replace them often. 1 Hmm, I may have to take note of this for future reference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAR Posted December 13, 2017 Report Share Posted December 13, 2017 I too use production rolls, rather than buy a pack of 5 hook and loop disks at the big box store. These are available in several places online, but most importantly of all are quality and the type of cutting agent used in the paper/disk. I switched to cubic Zirconium particulate papers (several years back) and have saved a bunch in the number of belts, pads and sheets I might need, per job. These Zirconium papers cut 5 times as long as aluminum oxide and other particulates. Additionally, spend the money for a quality paper. You can buy dozens of sheets of 80 grit at Harbor Freight for a few bucks, and wear through them in no time. A quality paper will have a backing that can take some heat and abuse and they're less venerable to moisture, because of the backing and adhesives used in manufacturing. Lowe's sells a seemingly costly product called "Shop Smith", in the standard belt and disk sizes. They cost twice as much as the cheap "Gator" products of the same size and grit, but the Zirconium Shop Smith products last 5 times as long, so it's actually a savings in the end. The same applies to wet papers. Buy a good paper, it lasts longer, cuts more uniformly and holds up better. Okay, my rant for the day is over . . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DustyMerope Posted December 29, 2017 Report Share Posted December 29, 2017 On 12/13/2017 at 1:32 PM, PAR said: Lowe's sells a seemingly costly product called "Shop Smith", in the standard belt and disk sizes. They cost twice as much as the cheap "Gator" products of the same size and grit, but the Zirconium Shop Smith products last 5 times as long. . . Yup, definitely a much more economical option. ____________________________________________________________________ Boatbuilding Novice and Photographer at Petstreetmall, we're your pet supplies experts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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