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CS 17 #191 build

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It has been a while since I last posted. I have been working on the boat. It just hasn't been very photogenic (I've been sanding!) Here are some highlights of the last couple months.


I really like the side deck braces with the little holes. I expect they will be very handy for tying fenders, etc. So I added two more on each side.



After lots of sanding I got the boat primed, inside and out. The deck will be Kiwi Grip and the floor will be closed-cell pad.



To move it around the shop I put the cradle on wheels. Easier to move but more difficult to climb inside.



Withe some help from my son and his wife I steam-bent wood for the coaming. It worked out well. I am doing the coaming in two layers, each ~1/4" thick. I steamed the wood for 20 minutes and used a steel bending strap on the outside of the bend. I do not know for certain what species of wood I'm using. It has been stashed for many years and it is beautiful stuff. Some think it is walnut but it doesn't pass the scratch and sniff test.



As of yesterday I believe I am finished with spraying the finish coats on the inside. I'll know for certain when I go to the shop this AM. Still have some roller and brush work to get to the places I can't do well with the spray gun. I'm using System Three WR-LPU Bainbridge White (actually very light grey, but looks a little greenish under the fluorescent shop lights) in a HVLP gun.



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The spray job is looking great.I wish I had the confidence to spray the finish, it comes out so much nicer.

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Unfortunately I didn't get to the messabout this year, but I have been making lots of progress. 


I got the outside painted. System Three WR-LPU Bainbridge White, HVLP spray gun. I will wet-sand the outside (600, 800, 1500) and then will hit it with a buffer.



I put some 3/4 " stainless hollowback rub strips on the keel, 1/2" on the stem. Half inch was hard to find and more expensive than the 3/4". I bedded it in butyl tape, still not sure this was a great idea. I like butyl for mounting most hardware but I think I should have used something that cures harder.




Next up was flipping her and fitting my (used) trailer. I would have preferred a wider trailer but this was one that I had and it will work.




This week has been all about the coamings. I had previously steam-bent the inner and outer front pieces. Inner front piece went in first.




All three inner pieces glued in.




Now the three outer pieces all glued in. Used almost every clamp in the shop!




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On shapes like this combing, I like to make a template. The best stuff I've found for this, particularly if using sheet goods (plywood, metal, etc.) is a product called "Ram Board" which is a cardboard material used to protect floors when doing a home remodel. It's available at most home improvement stores and isn't corrugated, but is "chipboard" which is the stuff you'll find on the back of a common notepad. It cuts easily and will act like plywood if bent around something. Bend it in, tack or staple lightly in place and trace the shape you want. Once traced, remove the temporary fasteners and unroll it flat. This is the shape, which often looks very odd, once flattened out. 

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The last couple weeks ahead of the holidays were pretty busy, getting everything done that was necessary to get the boat out of the shop. Wet sanding and polishing the hull, touch-ups, lots of hardware installation.


I put some self-adhesive "traction pad" material in the bilge. Looks good, feels nice on bare feet. Deck was done with KiwiGrip. All hardware bedded in butyl tape. Squeeze out still visible in photo.



Yes, I like staring at the coamings...



Installed the centerboard but actual rigging will be done later.



This was my solution for a latch for the front hatch. Hinges are on the other side. These are 1/4 x 20 knurled stainless bolts that thread into stainless inserts in the hatch coaming. Yes, this will be tedious to open and secure, but I wanted something simple, totally secure underway, and low profile, i.e., would not catch any lines. Yes I have spares for when I drop them over the side...



I put in two sets of oarlock sockets, fore and aft. The risers are mahogany and to make them match the coamings I soaked them overnight in vinegar and steel wool. It darkens the wood nicely. Then three coats of epoxy, varnish....



So 19 December was a big day. Not an official launch as I still have to finish the mast, rudder assembly, lots of rigging, put the name on, etc. So I will do an "official" launch when all that is done. But I did splash it and rowed it up the creek to my house.


It is nice to have a crane and lots of friends.



Note the holiday decorations on the lighthouse!



She floats! These are nine foot oars and I had a pair of ten foot oars in the bilge. I tried them both on the row home. I think the nine foot oars are adequate and will be easier to stow. 



Here she is at her new home. I've used this floating dock in various configurations for various boats for 15 years now. Works very well. 



I hope all my fellow B&B forum members are having a good holiday and looking forward to a good 2018!



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Wow. Wow. Wow.  Gorgeous work.

What are the rings around the bases of the masts?  I'm guessing they are drip deflectors?  What are they made of?


Congratulations and Happy New Year,



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Thanks guys! The rings around the main and mizen mast holes are cosmetic. I guess they give an additional inch of bury for the masts. Used a couple different size hole saws to cut them out of scrap mahogany. Did the vinegar and steel wool trick to darken them. They are epoxied around the mast tubes.

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Nice build! I'm interested in your grippy mats in the bilge.  Can you share some info on the material and your source?

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Here's what I used in the bottom of the boat:



I used the grey "wishbone" pattern stuff. It was easy to cut with a sharp utility knife on a piece of cardboard. The one 78" x 39" piece was plenty to do the bottom of the CS17. One slight irritation: the wishbone pattern on the piece I got was not straight with the sides of the piece. I worked with it and it looks fine.

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These molded mats work well on sealed surfaces, like GRP, but I don't trust anything that traps moisture against wood, though technically properly epoxy coated wood, should be fine (perfect world). The adhesive has good tack, though I question if it prevents all moisture from not getting trapped, between it and the substrate. I replace lots of soles each year and 95% of them, are because of a covering of some sort, that's supposed to be inert, glued down to a 'glass sheathed piece of plywood. Moisture eventually finds a way to a fastener, scratch, ding, etc. and gets into the plywood, where it's just a matter of time.

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Not trying to scare you, though it's something I see a lot, but usually with glued down carpet, which has a more aggressive glue and inert materials in the carpet itself. I have seen these and similar mats as well as vinyl stick on's and roll flooring, all being nearly or completely inert, still trapping moisture between it and the substrate.


This said, it does take years for a problem to crop up, if the plywood was well entombed in goo and fabric and (most importantly) hasn't been breached by a screw or something. I seen boats only 5 - 6 years old needing a new sole, but then again, some as old as 20 years, before needing a new something or other covered with whatever.


This is the only reason I mention it. Boat builders as a general rule, even novice builders will care and look after their creation(s), a whole lot better then the average person that's just gotten a second mortgage and bought a new BayLiner bow rider. This means you catch any issues long before you have to rip out major portions of boat, just to get at all of the damage. In short, you'll likely be just fine, so no worries . . .

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