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Showing results for tags 'cs20mk3'.
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Core Sound 20 Mk. 3 #22 - Essex Fells, NJ
NowWeTryItMyWay posted a topic in B & B Yachts Forum
NowWeTryItMyWay posted a topic in B & B Yachts ForumHi All- A quick PSA to report on the failure of a rudder blade on the CS20.3. I was sailing Chessie (CS 20 Mk. 3 Sail # 4) this weekend in Raritan Bay, out of the Keyport Municipal Boat Ramp. Tacking gently in about 5 kts wind, there was a soft snapping sound, steering wasn't so good, and we saw a little bit of the boat floating out backwards behind us. We used the motor, picked up the part, and got back home no problem. Took some pictures to illustrate the breaking point. thanks, Erik
Centerboard line pivot? CS20.3
NowWeTryItMyWay posted a topic in B & B Yachts ForumHello - I'm putting together the centerboard trunk and had a question about the pivot(s) for the line that raises the centerboard. In the drawings, there is one pivot labeled Harken 243 block. Then just below it , there is another thing that looks like a pivot, but it isn't labeled and seems to not totally make sense (I don't see how it would provide any benefit, and looks like it is in the way.) I was wondering if this is a real thing or maybe just an artifact in the drawing?
CS20.3 - Snapped Hanging Knee
NowWeTryItMyWay posted a topic in B & B Yachts ForumBuilding the CS20.3, I'm at the step where we install the hanging knees into the hull after filleting and glassing the keel. I made a really stupid mistake wanted a bigger challenge and snapped the aft hanging knee into thirds, where the cut-outs are for the deck support beams. I've started fixing this by putting everything in place, liberally applying epoxy, and putting about 8" of fiberglass tape on both sides of both breaks. It seems to be pretty strong now, so I am planning to just clean it up and proceed. But, I am wondering if anyone else had to fix something like this, and if so, if more drastic measures would be necessary? One possibility I was considering was to add a fillet for 5-6" on either side of the breaks, in the L-shaped corner formed by the overhang of the doubler, and then wrap a second piece of fiberglass around that fillet, which I think would have the effect of approximately doubling the thickness of the "beam" at that point (under the notch for the deck beam). Not sure if this is overkill, but given my ability to break stuff, overkill might not be the worst thing in the world.
Two related questions: 1 - Would it be a good idea to put an inspection port to allow access to the sealed compartment under the anchor well? Looking at the drawings, I think that the only totally sealed compartment without any access or ventilation is the area under the anchor well. Should an inspection port or vent be installed? And if so, where? A really small hole could go on BH1 between the anchor well cleat and the forward locker cleat. Or, a big one could go on the anchor well? 2 - Would it be a good idea (or not) to notch water drain paths in the bulkheads, bunk supports, and other vertical members throughout the boat so that water that gets into the boat could get to the lowest place and be drained or pumped out? I was thinking about recovery from a really wet capsize, or what to do if I leave the hatches open and rain (or a freak wave) pours into the cabin, and noticed that there is no drain path for water that gets into internal nooks such as (i) the forward locker, (ii) the two compartments aft of the forward locker, (iii) the lockers under the port/starboard bunks, (iv) the battery compartment, (v) the rear lockers, etc. I was wondering if it might be a good idea to notch drain holes in all of the vertical members throughout, so that water that gets into the boat it could collect at some low bilge-type spot and be conveniently pumped or sponged out (possibly, near the bottom of the aft seat locker(s)?) I ask the question with some humility - obviously folks have considered this before and I can think of a bunch of reasons why it might not be done - maybe it won't work because the "low" spot I'm imagining isn't actually lower, or the boat is dry enough that it is not an actual problem in practice, or perhaps it would compromise some other aspect of the design (i.e. the aft lockers can get swamped but the forward bunk compartments could still be dry?) But, I'm pretty new to this and so I'm not sure how to evaluate those. I was also thinking that if I installed a ballast pump like @Jknight611 did (here), I might be able to rig it with a valve to also pump water out of the bilge. But, for maximum usefulness, all the different parts of the boat would want to drain to wherever that bilge pump's intake was.