cprinos
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Posts posted by cprinos
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Core Sound 17 project ready for completion. The hull and internal framing have been complete, with seats and decking rough-cut to size. Centerboard blank glued up but not shaped. This is the aft-deck version of B&B's popular design, but it could still be converted to aft-cockpit. Built to plans except for a modification to create a curved transom approved by the designer. All plywood is top quality okoume from Boulter plywood. Wood materials to complete the boat included, along with full plans and aluminum for two masts. No rigging, sails or sails hardware. Those can be purchased as kits from B&B Yacht Designs.
I really hate to part with this project, but am moving and cannot bring it with me.
Boat always stored in garage. It is currently on a building cradle easily moved on a flatbed, but it could be taken off and put on a regular boat trailer. You would need to arrange transport. Can be seen any day of the week in Concord, MA.
$2,000, but will consider any reasonable offers. More build pictures available (see the links to my old build threads in the signature below)
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The Rossel book is excellent, with a good discussion of lofting as well as traditional boatbuilding methods.
For epoxy construction (strip, stitch & glue, cold-molding), the gougeon bros. book has a tremendous amount of information. It's online here http://www.westsystem.com/ss/assets/HowTo-Publications/GougeonBook%20061205.pdf but you can get a hardcopy from amazon or woodenboat too.
Devlin's stitch & glue is not as encyclopedic as the gougeon book and maybe less overwhelming for a first time builder, but is only for plywood/epoxy construction (like the B&B boats). http://www.amazon.com/Devlins-Boatbuilding-Build-Stitch-Glue/dp/0071579907.
Canoecraft, while obviously centered on canoes, give a thorough treatment of epoxy wood strip construction http://www.amazon.com/Canoecraft-Illustrated-Guide-Woodstrip-Construction/dp/1552093425 . Nick Shade has a similar one for kayaks: http://www.amazon.com/Building-Strip-Planked-Boats-ebook/dp/B001NLL46O/
If you're looking to build a CS 17, the Devlin or Gougeon books are most applicable, but there are always good ideas to be had in books about other types of build methods or boats.
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Thanks Lennie, there's a post earlier about a home-made reamer... The fit on my tubes is tight but I don't think it will take too much reaming to get them to slide. At the messabout Graham also was telling me about another way.... keeping the outer tube warm inside and putting the smaller tube out in the cold overnight. Epoxy them up and slide together before the temperatures equalize and they bond together. I think you only get one shot at that though.
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Also, see http://messing-about.com/forums/topic/5763-building-petunia-cs-17-204/ for a CS17 with a cuddy that DocPal is building
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Matt, SUMMER BREEZE is a CS20 Mark II (I think it's the prototype of that one. Build thread for that boat is here http://messing-about.com/forums/topic/8080-cs20-mk2/
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Lennie, this look like great (and fast progress, I"m jealous). I've also been using fir throughout apart from some trim mahogany and have not had any issues with blowout. This is the first time I've worked with douglas fir extensively and the biggest issue I have with it is that it is pretty picky when it comes to grain orientation when it comes to planing even with a low angle block.
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Well, I got plenty of ideas after seeing all the boats at this years messabout. Good motivation for me to kick things into gear again.... I'm losing warm weather time for working in the garage, but have got plenty to finish up with the centerboard and rudder assemblies that can be tackled in the basement shop.
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Great day at B&B on Saturday, I got to spend plenty of time in a CS17 (thanks Norm!), which was my first time in a B&B boat. Luckily my wife and two girls approved, so I haven't wasted the last two years of building
Norm's CS17
SUMMER BREEZE had new owners, I heard this was their first time launching:
Dock full of catketches:
Saturday coming to a close:
I might steal this idea for integrating fairleads into the coaming, and I noticed many boats had the filler panels to create a large raised deck forward
Handy storage and a slick knotmeter installation
obligitory snotter pic
Adrian took this one of me pretending that I know what I'm doing with her dad's boat:
Another 17 that Alan was maneuvering nicely (without use of the rudder for a while)
Norm & Docpal
A
CS20EC22
and CS20 DAWN PATROL
SUMMER BREEZE moves in a light autumn breeze
The handsome AMYCITA (see WoodenBoat #235) motored in on Saturday, she's closing in on 100 years old. Another boat from Massachusetts -- apparently I have to come to North Carolina to see all my neighbors' cool boats
All in all a great time. Great boats and lots of nice people. My girls, of course, liked all the dogs that showed up.
Thanks to Graham, Carla, & Beth for hosting a great event, I hope to make it back down again (hopefully with a finished boat next time)
Chris
p.s. if anyone wants a full-res image of these, just pm me.
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Docpal - sounds good, sounds like there will be a number of us 'build-in-progress' folks.
Chris
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It's a couple of months away, but I figure not to soon to start thinking about the messabout.... There's no way I'll have my boat ready to bring down to North Carolina this year, but I did get find some decent flights so I decided to make the trip down to check out some other boats and get some inspiration. I've never been to NC before, so I'm looking forward to it.
Chris
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+1 on movable cradle. Originally I did it with the intent to be able to move it outside for sanding, but it is really nice to move it around a foot here or a foot there even in the garage bay, as my space is tight. I build the ladderframe first and used that for laying out and making the hull panels, then added cradle supports once I was ready to stitch it up.
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Nice -- another EC22 coming !
$25 brings that to around $4.20 a bd/ft ---- seems about right for 1x6 fir (at least for our local conditions)... My local yard's stock was excellent in 2x6, I have a harder time finding good quality 1x6, and the 2x6 was $5.50-6$ a bd/ft depending when I got it. At $35 for 1x6x12, you might want to shop around. Not sure what species would be cheaper and still a good sub for the fir. I was thinking of using cedar for the centerboard for example, but I can't get it much cheaper than the fir.
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I had same question, one of other forumites posted a pic here http://messing-about.com/forums/topic/8630-cs17-315-continued/?p=75250
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You could ask graham to use the sail plan page from the plan set--- you could colorized for a hull paint scheme... Seems like that's what the EC22 web page is. Something like this (http://www.pmimage.com/svg/design.html), but with the sails.
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Sounds like a good idea David. Since I haven't owned a sailboat previously, I've been limited to spots where I could find rentals, I'm looking forward to finding some new locales.
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uggh. minor setback. Been away from the build for a bit with work & vacation, and came back to look at shaping the centerboard. I cut off the bottom tip of the board (I was planning on re-gluing a piece cross-wise so there would be no end-grain at the tip, plus the end would be isolated by a glue line).
Once I did that I saw some of the strip glue lines on the interior looked starved. I tried to break the sawed off piece in my hands, and was able to with a little bit of effort, and the break was at the glue lines. I had clamped it too hard when I glued up the boards. I actually had a suspicion I might have screwed this up when I first did it... I was rushing at the time and doing the glue up in my basement--away from my epoxy station in the garage, so I was trying to stretch more coverage out of the mixed batches then I should have. With less epoxy on the strips then I should have had, I ended up with too much clamping pressure to get squeeze out. I'm frustrated that I didn't listen to myself when I thought I was rushing it, but at least I found it before I invested any time in shaping the centerboard (or worse.... using it in the final boat). I should know better, and wasn't even going to post about this part, but I know I learned a lot by reading about other people's mistakes, so here's my contribution
So, I got more fir, ripped some more strips, and glued up another centerboard. More epoxy was used. I took my time. The second one came out very well, so I can layout the profile and will also cut a channel for the rope-trick leading edge. The downside is I wasted some time and wasted some money on the fir, but on the other hand, the new fir boards I used were tighter grained and significantly lighter (douglas fir really has a lot of variance on weight) than what I used the first time around, so I think it will be better in the long run.
chris
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That's cool, I think you did a nice job with the proportions of that cuddy/cabin.
chris
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Len,
I don't think you will find the build too hard for a first build, and if you are getting the kit that will also speed things up for you. I did a kayak kit for my first one and had a learning curve with epoxy, but I'm sure you got plenty of hands-on at woodenboat. Post some pictures along the way, and check the archives here, there's lots of great info on the forum. I'm just now working on centerboard and trunk which takes a little patience, but up to now it's been much like the kayak, just with bigger panels
Dale was kind enough to show me Lively a while back when I was on vacation, you guys have some great sailing grounds down there.
Chris
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That is interesting. Mine also was about a quarter inch proud at the top.... But I think I had already done the transom by then, and just ended up trimming the top of the bulkhead flush
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my forward bulkhead was roughly centered at the top rail... at the bottom it was aft of the mark when I wired it up. The bulkhead is thin enough that I would be surprised if +/- the thickness made a big difference. Is the second picture a template or the actual bulkhead?
chris
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The 9mm panels don't look to bad, the outer veneer are always going to be a bit thinner with sanding, but it looks like all 7 plys started out the same thickness.
The 6mm panels though...looks like you've got three thin plys that are not even 1mm to start and then the outers are made even thinner due to sanding. I don't like the looks of those. I'm glad the supplier is taking those back for you.
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picture would definitely help....
The thickness of the dry veneers shall be related to the specified thickness as marked on the board, each
face veneer shall not be thinner than 1.3mm (prior to sanding) and not thicker than 3.8mm and eachcore veneer shall not be thicker than 4.8mm. -
David.... stack the two side panels on top of each other, as close to matching as possible.... then you can clamp and just use a block plane to trim the panels to be identical.
chris
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Had to look up Bluegill on Redmond's site, there was some interesting info -- I'm guessing there can't be too many small plywood boat designs from 1986 that had computer-developed panels.
Good to see another 17 build starting!
Core Sound 17 Project (Concord, Ma)
in Classifieds
Posted
The boat has been sold