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Steve W

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Everything posted by Steve W

  1. I learned from a serial boat builder (yeah, you!) about these and they are a go to tool in my shop.
  2. It's hard to believe that dead horse of a tracking map they have been beating for years is the best they can do. Times out on every refresh. Anyone have an update?
  3. I'm watching EC dots on my screen and missing the important stuff. How Exciting. Welcome to the World Henry! Congratulations Alan and Taylor and the entire B & B family.
  4. That tamer is the one I have on Skeena. It's really great.
  5. Pete, I've played this over in my mind bunch of times. I tell my kids all the time "Stupid Hurts" and this was one of those time my own stupidity hurt. I failed at so many things that day. Flipping a switch to fill the ballast tank as the first "reef" is so obvious and yet it never crossed my mind. I think the tenderness of my Sea Pearl had tricked me. The CS is so stable I just wasn't feeling the obvious and also, the mizzen carries far more sail area/leverage than the SP. I am sure if I had the water in things would have been far different. As for righting, Teddy and I weigh about #325 together. We had a another small kid at one point that probably weighted 50# tops as we had her righting. The water ballast in the boat is more than this and though we had more leverage out on the C-board, at the time the boat is on her feet, you don't have the drag of the rigging in the water. Water ballast is just a convenient substitute for ballast that makes towing easy and offers the possibility of better light air performance. I hate that anyone would think the design is suspect. I see the B & B folks moved the C-board forward , which is a good idea. I don't have any weather helm with both sails up fully. I plan to make the mizzen sheet release a bit easier by changing to a pivoting block. I couldn't release the mizzen when we were going over because of the side pull. But again, I shouldn't have had to. If there is a lesson here for all......put the water in first.
  6. Pete, there was just a crack in the top, and it remained above the water line, so the cockpit drained itself. Unfortunately she was upside down long enough for a lot of water to get in the cabin. My hatch drop boards are tight, but the gaps between the hatch boards let quite a bit of water in. Basically it was about even with the seat tops. The bummer was that I only had hinges on the bunk hatches so all my stuff fell out and was everywhere and soaked. I was able to bail into the cockpit and it ran out the drains. Nothing in the cockpit lockers got wet. The Aft locker of course was full and had to be pumped dry. Did I mention how dumb this whole event was? I can't wait for spring!
  7. Don, the weight of the lead tip and my sharp trailing edge make for a hell of a guillotine. I like your idea, but worry that something like that would just create a different problem in an inaccessible area. on my boat, I think the best solution is to just use the water ballast. I had a perfect storm that day. pop-up storms, a stalled boat in the middle of a insane "puff" a hard sheet-ed jib, and no easy way to release. Dumb stuff happens, but I have no good reason not to have had the water in. I was super lucky to not have greater damage. This boat is a great design. I have some footage where I'm double reefed on both sails and she's well behaved, with the water.
  8. I just put round hatches in all three of Suzy J's buoyancy tanks. Thieves are pretty lazy and I'm not sure anyone is going to take a chance on looking in there on the hope they find something valuable. Also, the N series don't have a as much buoyancy as the regular ones and I'd hate to compromise it. I always put my keys and wallet and phone in the tank. I haven't capsized the 11N yet. Go figure.
  9. Ironically I just got the mail. I was surprised to find this letter, hat, sticker and copy of the magazine from WB What is really neat is that the had has embroidered the issue Skeena was in. Well done WB! I hope some builders see this and decide to build a CS20.3 or any other B & B boats. Take Care, Steve
  10. Some of you mentioned you saw Skeena in WoodenBoat magazine. I have been a subscriber for many years and always go to the Launchings section first. I think all us builders have a certain kinship. To get in the launchings section, you have to submit a picture and fill out a form. Link is here: WoodenBoat Launchings So I think my mailman reads my magazine before he delivers it as I got mine long after I bought a copy at the grocery store. Here's the content: They linked it on their website: https://www.woodenboat.com/boat-launchings/skeena
  11. Pete, I agree with everything you posted here. I have had a few reasons to go up on the cabin roof and I aim to make them go away. On launch, the two lower cringles are used. If I put a reef in, it would be desirable to put the first unused hook into the third cringle t to be ready to reef a third time and hook back up easily if un-reefing. I can't quite reach this without going out on the cabin roof. Another reason is anchoring. I put an anchor roller forward which I like. But I have sailed up to anchor and not been able to drop anchor without lowering sail first. In theory this is fine, but in an emergency it isn't. I'd like to be able to reach the anchor cleat without going forward. I have thought of alternate ways to do this, but I haven't thought of anything that wouldn't contribute to more rigging time, which to me is another enemy. For the record, I have fallen overboard on other boats, but luckily it's always been from goofing around. Now that I'm a bit older I'm getting more concerned. I plan on doing quite a bit of single handing.
  12. Pete, I totally agree and I like your suggestion. I am still disappointed in myself for capsizing, but I've done dumber things before and I'm filing that in the "live and learn" category. Since that incident back in June I added a better way to reef and worked to get more weight low. I am currently toying with rebuilding the hatch. I really can't tie reefs in the mainsail without climbing on the cabin top and I don't think that is a good place to be. When I added my hatch I bedded it in a latex house caulk so I could remove it if I didn't like it. I'm thinking of a sliding hatch like the one Graham had posted, but instead of making it three slides, I'd make it two, with the garage in the spot my forward hatch is now. Slid forward, I could easily reach the reef ties and leaning forward I could reach the mast. About the only thing that I would give up is the superior ventilation provided by the hatch tipped up. I'm only at the thinking stage. I just got back from Nordic skiing a few miles. Spring seems a long way off.
  13. Can you just take the sheets out of the blocks at night and tie to the mast?
  14. I've had that same setup on quite a number of boats. It's superior and also inexpensive. The nice part is there is no instruction required if you ask somebody to steer and you can nudge the tiller with your feet, shin or whatever to make course corrections.
  15. Geetings from the states! First of all, that looks like a sweet place to build a boat if that's your shop! As for the building jig, there isn't one. Take a look at the build pics below to get a good idea of what happens. Yes, therey will be a time where you need to make sure everything is square, but it's a different sort of process, unless something has changed, but I'm pretty sure they haven't.
  16. This is a great blog if you haven't seen it. Steve is a quiet but super nice guy I have met a few times. http://logofspartina.blogspot.com/?m=0 he sleeps in a bivy.
  17. I haven't got my issue yet........celebrating my building skills, not my sailing skills!
  18. I didn't have any trouble with the boat wanting to sink. It may have been interesting to see what would have happened if the hatch board was in. I think the only benefit having that forward hatch watertight was just less wet stuff.
  19. The type of cleat (CL 257) used on the rudder that releases under high strain would keep it upright. It wouldn't take much to hold it. I've consider doing this, but it's not an easy job and working under the companionway deck is about my least favorite workspace. I think if I'd had the water ballast in this wouldn't have happened. But I also know that when that C-board comes down it has a lot of force. Teddy said he didn't have much trouble snagging the C-board with the halyard......I was busy with other stuff. I was swimming and looked up and he had it extended.
  20. That sounds super fun. I've done quite a bit of this type of sail-camping out of a Sea Pearl. If you can figure a way to sleep aboard, you can increase the possibilities of trips a great deal. Sadly we live in a "Get off my lawn" society and places to camp become less and less. But you can literally drop an anchor 50 feet from a McMansion dock if you can sleep aboard. If you can't, stealth camping can work if you keep a low profile in populated areas. If you are in a remote location, the pick of spots increases, but the "safety in numbers" aspect goes down. This is exciting but a good reason to carry an EPIRB. There was an extensive gear list in the NOV/DEC 2019 issue of Small Craft Advisor. If you can't find a copy, let me know. It's a bit overkill, but a good place to start to personalize your own list.
  21. Paul, I was totally embarrassed and for awhile didn't tell many people. I didn't sail again in Conesus lake for most of the summer. It was a humbling experience that only added to all 2020 has had to offer. It's hard to believe I missed your story, but maybe I blocked it thinking it could never happen to me. Thank you for re-sharing. It was stressful to read having gone through my adventure. Funny thing is Teddy doesn't seem the worse for wear!
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