Steve W

When I was building Skeena, I decided to build her mostly stock and make changes after I figured out how I used her for awhile. Access to The forward locker has turned out to be one area I'd like to change. I often pile my guitar and pillows and bedding up top of the locker as they are light. I have even considered putting a low net across to hold stuff captive. In that forward locker I keep water in collapsable bags, but access is awkward. If I need to get to it during the day, I have to unload all the top stuff. I'm thinking about cutting a decent sized hatch in the vertical bulkhead and putting a tip out from the bottom hinged cover with a flange glued to the back typical to all the other hatches. I can't see any reason structurally this is bad, but I'd like any comments from Alan and Graham, and others that may have a different idea. Thanks in advance, Steve

I have a Suzuki long shaft 2.5 on Skeena for all the economic reasons presented. I also run a 50w solar panel that runs the ballast water pump, charges my phone and for nav and anchor lights. But I run my house (heat and ac plus everything else), one of my cars on 13kw Solar. I am on track for an $80,000 dollar ROI over it's lifespan. The times they are a changing. I am hopeful to someday run my boat on solar charged by the sun. The quiet instant power of electric is hard to beat. My ICE car feels like the flintstone mobile (google it kids) when I drive it.

Alan, I didn't see where in Canada you were, but here are my free thoughts having built a CS20.3. When I built Skeena, the only thing you could get was the kit, which bummed me out. But once I started building and saw how many pieces there were and how well things fit together, I quickly got over it. I also realized the extra time would have really added up. Ordering stock these days isn't easy and then having it sitting around at the ready takes up space. For me, who fortunately has more money than time (not retired yet!), jumping in the car and driving from NY to NC to pick up the kit was a good financial decision. It would be the same even if I lived in Vancouver. As for the headroom, nobody has mentioned a person's height isn't a good measurement to use for this. I am 6 feet tall and I can sit on the back of the bunks and I fit just fine. A friend who is three inches shorter can't sit as his legs are short and he has a long torso. I'd go with the 20, but I'd either simulate a cross section just forward of the cabin bulkhead for consideration before I spent all that time building a boat. I can't wait to watch your progress.

What boat? I worked super hard to do exactly what Captain Tim says above on my Coresound 20.3 and it was perfect for a bit, until the first time I went forward under power the prop came half out of the water. If anyone needs a Suzuki 2.5 short shaft I still have it. Less than 20 minutes of use! Replaced it with a long shaft and all is well. In short, think it completely through!

Just a couple of thoughts. I'm in reasonable shape, but not a powerlifter and I have no trouble putting the mainmast up with one hand, mostly lifting with my legs to get things going. The key is to be farther forward than you think. I stand on the cabin top at the ramp, which is pretty high up. With my shoulder holding the mast forward I reach down and add the levered nut. I am 6' tall with long arms which helps. I think the only challenge is a rolling sea. The mast is only really captive in it's seat and there would be a lot of leverage on the pivot bolt. I think the mizzen would be pretty easy. I have an interest in this as I plan on doing a trip down the Erie canal and I'll need to switch to a sail rig at Cross and Oneida and Onondaga lakes.

Alan sent me an email asking if I had any good pictures of Skeena to provide to SCA for a story Marty Loken was doing on "camp cruisers you can build". I sent a few pictures to Marty, including one that was taken by a photographer from CLC that was on a support boat on the trip to Cox Creek winery. My longtime friend and sailing partner Joe was with me. This trip was a new event at the MASCF. I got an email from Marty saying that that pic had been chosen for the cover, which has been quite a thrill for me. Building Skeena was a long process but having her is such a joy. I've been singing "when I get my picture on the cover, gonna buy five copies for my mother" who sadly isn't with us anymore, but was the one who instilled craftmanship into my life. Thanks Alan, Graham, Carla and all the fine folks at B & B, and to all those who showed me the way, and answered my questions. Barring catastrophe, I will see you at the messabout with covergirl Skeena.

Knight Assembled Labor Of Sweetness! Fantastic!

Awesome. My least favorite part of building, but part of the journey. On a side note, there is no chance that everything you are wearing doesn't get paint on it. My kids (and my) confidence in their abilities to stay clean is way higher than reality. That looks like a nice sweatshirt. Enough dad talk. I'm looking forward to the day you are rewarded for all your effort.

I have a light grey hull and I thought everything would show. I added some eye straps to attach fenders and the halyard/backstay when I fly my mizzen staysail and they don't show hardly at all. especially from more than 10 feet away FWIW. Have you seen any of Roger Barnes videos?

Wow Jay, No Name is a beauty! ? I can't wait to see her in person!

There is a thread here that has a lot of info on trailers. Continental makes a series for skiffs that are perfectly suited for CS and similar boats. Lightweight and low to the ground. Here's a link their their page: https://www.continentaltrailers.com/galvanized-bassboat_jonboat.htm I bought a 1812 for my CS20.3, but it may be too big for your boat. But these trailers are sweet. I used Uship to get one delivered here in NY as they have no dealers, but all the other trailers I could find were way too heavy. It hauls like it isn't there.

I bought a trailer for my Sea Pearl made by continental. I bought a similar one for Skeena. Low to the ground. The right springs reasoably light weight.

Skeena ais hibernating. I'm bored so I'm gluing up a new main sprit. Me plan is to replace the old main sprit and repurpose it to the mizzen, making each a bit longer. I saw somewhere in a post where there is a way to change the snotter so it doesn't need to be eased as the sail gets let out. While I'm back in the shop fooling around I'm interested in this change. Take Care, Steve

I had some from duckworks before I bought some from B & B. I liked B & B's better with almost non-existent blush. The 2:1 ratio seemed pretty much the same and I decided that is the pumps were close enough the chart was too. I've never wound up without a good mix. what I like is that mixing even a tiny amount is possible with this approach.

FTR, Harbor freight sells electronic gram scales that make mixing even the tiniest amounts really easy. I got to the point I'd not ever count squirts. I still pump the right amount of resin, look at a chart and pump the hardener to the correct amount. Perfect every time! I use this chart for all my 2:1 epoxy, which has almost all been B & B: https://s3.amazonaws.com/duckbbs/supplies/epoxy/epoxy_weight_ratio.pdf

Nice. I like boats named after people. After all that work you know the namesake must be pretty special. Steve

How did I miss this. Nice! This should be pinned at the top of the forum.

She looks great and while I liked the building of Skeena, I like your "budge to the front of the get sailing line" approach! A couple of reefing observations on your pictures. The tack of your sail should be in about the same spot no matter what reef you have in. This keeps the windage low. It may be an optical illusion, but the sails look like they are running high in your pics. I could be wrong......... On Skeena, I pulled the sail to the top and made a mark on the sail track where the downhaul hook attaches. I then lowered the sails to each reef point so that the new downhaul tack grommet location matched the un-reefed location. Next I made a permanent mark (I find spray paint used over a masked are works best, sharpie wears off) to set the halyard to when reefing. If done this way, the sail will be lowest and that will make tying in the reef lines manageable from standing in the cabin and reaching up. I think standing up on that cabin top is a really bad idea, especially single handed. I have Skeena snuggled away in the barn right now, but I'm planning on 2022 being a record year for sailing, knock on Okume. Take Care, Steve

I found the instructions just right. The important info is spelled out and pretty clear. I did make a couple calls to B & B when I wasn't sure and got more answer that I asked for every time! I was a cautious first time builder so it took me longer, but it's a great project.

I don't have a build log, because when I built the Suzy J I didn't think of having one and just asked occasional questions. But here are a few videos to keep you focused: Sailing and Motoring. Sailing with my kids Sunfish And my favorite sailing video of all time: Also, there is a link in my signature to a lot of build pics. Hard to believe the kids are all away now.......

So here's the thing. On your new boat, you solve a lot of problems, but being able to find where all your stuff is isn't one of them.......lots of places to lose things on a Mark 3.

That's a heck of a deal.....

Joe mentioned on the messabout thread a tip Graham mentioned about better upwind performance by getting the sail flatter. I mentioned I felt I embarrassed the B & B legacy with my lousy windward performance at the MASCF. I had a great race going until the upwind finish. The problem/solution was twofold: My water ballast tank had leaked overnight and was 3/4 full on a light wind day and I had no idea. While you were all having fun at the mess-about I wired up a three-way valve and a second bilgepum to pump water out so that never happens again. My sprits were a little short, so sail shape was really not very powerful upwind. I made a new Main Sprit and moved the original main, cut down a bit to the Mizzen. FTR, I think the snap hooks add about two inches of needs to the sprit lengths, and if I had to do the race at the MASCF over again I would have tied the snotter lines and the sail direct as a work-around. No need anymore. Finally, a tip for all who wonder what to do with the reef line excess when reefed or when transporting the sprits (I've made it a rule to always rig both reefs!). The little elastic bands girls and some boys used to tie their ponytails up that are sold in the drugstore are perfect for installing on your sprit. Tip:The black ones are the most UV resistant. Coil the excess and stuff under one of these. It also works for transport and I never bothered installing the fairleads on the sprits as afew spaced along the sprit wit hte reef line run under works fine. Get extra as the sun will weaken them over a season, but they sure work good.

I'm not entirely sure I shouldn't have gone with a bigger motor than my Suzuki 2.5 and I sized my well for it. Todd, when you read this let me know how the Tohatsu is working for you. I like the FNR.

Todd, congratulations on your launch. Saw a few pics. Love the hull color and 6 ports. More pics please! Steve lov