Steve W

This is a great warning. You get one body, usually starting with working ears, eyes, fingers, etc. Nothing in this world is as versatile and better designed. Unfortunately too many of us take it for granted. I can't tell you how many farmers I knew when I was younger who ran straight pipes on tractors. And playing in bands, guys who turned up there stage monitors to unbearable levels. Most of these guys have hearing aids now. And who needs sunscreen? I worked with a guy who had the buckles on his overalls burn his skin. He thought it was cool. Just heard he had melenoma. It goes on and on. I take risks for things that are exciting, but why take a risk on something as mundane as sanding or planing or handling epoxy? A respirator, safety glasses and hearing protection every time you turn on a machine, or at least a respirator when you are hand sanding is just common sense. Please be careful. Take Care, Steve

1. Any reason you have to sart at the bow. It sure would be easier for me to start in the stern. 2. Walnut shells? Grind my own? Take Care, Steve

All right.....a hole for the painter it is. I've never seen it before. I've learned a lot here. Also...microballoons on order. Take Care, Steve

Do you think that it will hold up to towing all day? I'm guessing a figure eight knot? Take care, Steve

All right, you epoxy coated thread highjackers......time for question number three or four. 1. In the plans for the nesting 11N, the plans show a painter attachment as a line through the stem. That seems kind of lame. Anyone ever do anything defferent, and if so, what? 2. Also, I'm going to start fairing the tape joints. I'm thinking that silica/epoxy isn't the best choice for lightness, and since impact resistance is all I'm after at this point, there must be a filler alternative. take Care, Steve

This thread is very informative. I have a question that I think I know the answer to, but I'll ask it any way. I there was a canoe I admired, build in fiberglass, but I wanted a stripper version of it, could I measure it carefully and produce my own copy? I'm guessing no, but I need the facts. Take Care, Steve

Thanks Peter. I'm thinking of making the first piece of white oak cover the top of the Plywood by making a lip on the top of the first strip that covers the ply. This would be white oak. I'd then use cedar for the next strip, followed by the last piece of white oak. I don't like the idea of having an exposed plywood edge on the gunnel top. what do you all think?

I'm about to put a laminated gunnle on my Spindrift 11 N. I'm hoping to cut the stock tonight in getting ready. I read in the archives that laminating is done to releave stress. sounds good to me. Here are some questions. 1. I have a piece of White Oak, 12 feet long that I will resaw to use. I was thinking of laminating in a piece of cedar between the two, except for a short section where the oarlocks are. It would be lighter, bt not much, but I think it would look nice. Any comments? 2. what glue to use? epoxy is the un-natural natural choice, but it's messy around all those clamps. any alternatives? 3. The profile of the gunnels is sort of a radiused trapezoid. I would need to hold it all together and then profile it with a router after attaching I think. Am I missing an easier way to preform it? Take Care, Steve

What species of wood for items like breasthooks? I used cedar for the transome stiffener, but it seems something stronger is in order for the breasthooks. Take Care, Steve

The devil is in the details they say. Upon further review, I forgot to do two things when I cut the panels last spring. I got the flu, and after sort of recovering, stitched it together. I forgot to bevel the bottom panels together and so when I stitched it it was impossible to get fair. I unwired it and in about 5 minutes fixed that. While I was at it, I remeasured everything and I realized I forgot to cut the end of the side panels off. duh! I cut them and re-wired it last night and it went together just beautifully. I've had my kids helping me on all the measuring, and of course I've benn checking it, but somehow these two misses got by us. I'm sure there will be more. But I'm excited to get gluing now that she is straight and fair. Take Care, Steve

She's 3-D. a couple of questions. 1. the side pnels extend about 1/4 of an inch past the stern panels. I measured three times. I'm assuming I trim the side panels a paralell amount. Anyone care to comment? 2. I'm assuming the panels are put together such that the bottom panels butt up to the sides. Of course, the sides coudl rest on the bottom, but I doubt that, and they could be beveled, but I saw no mention in the plans. 3. There is talk in the fine print (it's all fine, my eyes aren't what they used to be) that it's importnt to keep the panels fair. I can only imagine it would be possible to warp the bottom, but how is it possible to get ti all straight if I only have it wired together, and I can't flip it? That's all for now. Take Care, Steve

Brent....it was great to meet you out at Wye Island. I was hoping to get more of a look at your CS20, but you vanished into the morning! I put a little together of our trip, and you and your boat make a few appearances. I hope our paths cross again. I'm back at work on a spindrift 11N and I'm hoping to bring it next year along with Wildcat.take Care, Steve

I'm going, but I'm bringing my Sea Pearl 21 WildCat. I am building a Spindrift 11N and I'm going for inspiration! Hope to see you there. what kind of boat will you bring?

Great fun to watch someone elses work. I'm buiding a Spindrift 11N with my kids, but unfortunately I got a late start this spring and its only at the 3D stage. Once November rolls around I plan on getting serious for a spring launch. I'll be looking to this log for inspiration. I will add that I was going with scarfs, but caved to the ease of a butt joint. Take Care, Steve

I'm appalled at how many nitrile gloves, cups, paper towels I've been going through working on my 11N. any tips for economizing....I don't mind spending the money, its the amount of garbage I'm creating thats frightening. Take Care, Steve

Duh.....I need better reading glasses. As soon as I saw the posted plans (I do have that sheet) I noticed the seam glass covers the holes to give them strength. Now drilling later makes sense. Thank you, Steve

I've tapped an inspection cover to accept an air chuck and put a few psi on it. then run soapy water on it with a paint brush. I found my leak in 5 minutes. the other guys are right. A small hole can ship a ot of water. take Cre, Steve

But if they were bolted together, they couldn't shift......hmmmm. I guess I'll go with the concencus, even though it doesn't make sense. I've been wrong plenty of times...... Take care, Steve

The directions to my 11N say not to drill the holes after the epoxy has been poured. I have the two bulheads taped togther with the cardboard sawcut spacers. It seems like this would be a good time to drill the holes, put the bolts through and remve them and replace them one at a time when I'm sawing teh boat in half. If that isn't the way, what is it? Take Care, Steve

Barry...I'm building an 11N and I've been enjoying your work. I'm about to go 3D. Any tips you want to share? I see you have glassed the seams and I'm nervous about that step. It's my first S & G boat and I'm a little un-nerved by this method. take Care, Steve

Thanks everyone. I had some West system sitting around, so I used that for the first glue-up yesterday. I did the hot water thing after I cleaned up and it worked like a charm. I am just starting out, so this won't be my last post. Steve

I'm finally getting around to buiding my Spindrift 11N. I bought 2 gallons of epoxy and the part A (not hardener) has turned close to solid on me. This has never happened before, but this is a different brand that the West System I have used before. The jugs were unopened. Are they junk? Steve