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Steve W

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Everything posted by Steve W

  1. thank you everyone for the compliments. It's been a fun and rewarding project. My son andrew had a birthday party this weekend and I evesdropped as he told his friends about building it. It was well worth the work just to hear him tell his version of the story. As for the workshop....I have a bit of a focus problem. If things get too chaotic, I can't concentrate. so to me, that is a mess! I've seen pictures of some peoples shops and I get jealous that productivity can be maintained in the midst of chaos. I just can't do it. Take Care, Steve
  2. After spending all the time building my 11N, the decision to buy good plywood seams like a no brainer. As for the epoxy, I bought mine from B & B and other than the fact it chrystaled on me it was very good, and the price was right. If it gets lumpy, just put the whole jug in a pot of boiling water and heat it slowly to make it like new again. One thing was that I bought slow and fast hardener. The fast was slow, and the slow was slower. I think since I made my boat in my basement, where the temp was about 62 degrees, was the factor in the slow cure. Once you get past the first few steps, there seems to be rarely a time where you can't glue and then move on to some other activity, so the cure speed just didn't matter as much as I thought it would. As a newbe to eboxy/taped seems, I was happy it stayed fluid longer. On the advice of B & B, I used silica/epoxy for the jonts were stregth was an issue, but for anything else I used west system 407. the boat came out pretty light. Take Care Steve
  3. I wish I had taken more, but here is the story in photos of my Spindrift 11N build. Thanks to all who patiently answered questions, to Graham and Carla for the plans and support, and especially to my Mom, who left us way too young two years ago yesterday. Take Care, Steve https://picasaweb.google.com/114007621203237706900
  4. There are a number of things that make it sort of complicated. An optimist it isn't, but it isn't a complaint. I knew whwn I got the sail it was going to get complicated. 1. The sail has a zippered sleave. Great for performance, not so good for a kid who has to pull on a halyard while holding a zipper and can't douse the sail quickly without going forward to unzip. 2. the big sail makes it haul a#$. Unfortunately, it needs to be reefed by my two light kids and the jiffy reefing adds lines and complexity. Again, I'm not complaining. Sailing it myself is a hoot! 3. the big sail means the main sheet is riged 2:1. It's long! We sail up north in fresh water where it is common to need to row out through the vegetation to set sail and then rig. the kids are struggling and not able to do that. When the three of us sail together, they seem pretty excited we built a boat they are actually sailing. I guess the ideal thing to do would be to rig a different, simpler (again, think optimist or sunfish), ower performance rig, and let them sail. Take Care, Steve.
  5. I launched the Suzy J, my 11N recently. I'll have pictures soon. I love this boat, and how well it sails. But I intended my kids to sail it and they are a bit frustrated. I built it exactly as designed. I guess I wasn't thinking clearly about the simplicity of the rig. It is tough to row it out and get it rigged and sailed. The sail controls that give its rig all of its performance make it not so handy if you are only 12 and 10 and sail Sunfish, but want a drier boat. Has anyone adapted a simpler rig to one of these boats that would be more appropriate for kids? Lateen? Sprit, etc. Or do you have tips to help my kids and I rig it faster. I'd give up performance for simplicity and a quicker launch. Take Care, Steve
  6. So you open the port and release an elvstrom type baler to bail or fill? I really like this boat. I can't wait to see it finished. thanks for all the photos. Take Care, Steve
  7. That looks really promising. I have always lusted after a drascombe coaster just because it was light enough to pull with a small car, had shallow draft, a mizzen, and a small cabin. to have all that and what will pobably be great perfromance is exciting. By the time you have plans for sale, my wife may be over her moratorium on basement boat building. Take Care, Steve
  8. that looks awesome! Having just finished a little Spindrift 11N, I realize how big a project this is! The CS20 MK 2 with cabin is a boat I am awaiting. I like the 22, but I want to put my next build in my garage, and that won't make it, unlles my wife parks outside, and that isn't going to happen! Take Care, Steve
  9. Thanks for the link David. Interesting first sentence in the above link "Powerboat designs, even those sold as kits like our new Peeler Skiff, must comply with stringent Coast Guard regulations". The loading was neat, but when I was younger I swamped an 14' aluminum rowboat with a 10 HP motor in heavy waves (stupid youth!) and it didn't behave like it would have in a pool! I couldn't get it bailed, because the motor kept the transome below the water level. And while swimming with it, everytime I tried to get "in" it, it wanted to roll a bit, unless you were in the absolute center. Eventually the boat and I blew into shore! I think if you really wanted to test a boat, you'd be better off takeing it to the surf, flipping it, and seeing what happenned, including wave aaction and reboarding. Even in calm water, if the freeboard can't be maintained swamped, you know its never going to be bailed. But I will say, that CLC boat floats a lot higher than the boat I was in! Take Care, Steve
  10. I used Spanish Cedar for everything, but for the keel I used White Oak. I've heard it doesn't epoxy well, but I've never experienced it. I didn't put any thing over the keel, so the closed cell properties of the wood are important. The spanish cedar is light and looks fantastic. I also laminated the gunnels with a thin strip of white oak, thick spanish cedar, followed by a strip of white oak. It looks awesome. Pics soon. Take Care, Steve
  11. I hope I didn't infer that I thought any boat unsafe. What I applaud is the testing SCA did on Scamp. The second statement in Scott's response is exactly what most of us have to go on, to paraphrase "This is what I think will happen". I think Scott is proably right, but it's nice to se a design actually tested, and results made public, instead of us having to do it ourselves. I don't think the Scamp is a boat for me, but the testing and public sharing of the results I applaud. I new when I bougth my Sea Pearl about its capsize issues, but not from Marine Concepts advertising, only of reading past users experiences. Take Care, Steve
  12. Well, I think that actually doing testing, on video, instead of just saying, "She was designed to.....blah, blah, blah" gives them a bit of a right to crow a bit. Those test videos are pretty impressive. Contrast this with the situation with International Marine. SCA ran a few stories about unrecoverable capsizes (from my angle, poor sailing...I think a Potter certainly has a commendable track record) and they pulled their advertizing, instead of reacting with video or any proof that their boats are safe. I personally think they are, but at least JW and the staff at SCA clearly designed with safety in mind, and then went out to prove it was safe. I guess the dust eventually settled, because now I see they are back. I can't comment much about B & B boats, because I only built a Spindrift 11N and have yet to do a capsize test. But I certainly wouldn't take it out of protected water. I own a Sea Pearl 21, which is an amazing production boat, but its unrecoverable (Can't be bailed although it has positive flotation) and that is something I'd want to know if I was buying one. As I know this, the mainsheet never leaves my hand. I am watching very closely at the CS20 with cabin being designed as possibly my 2nd build. Take Care, Steve
  13. Any more progress? Pictures? This design is the one I'm most interested in. Take Care, Steve
  14. I used copper wire and tacked it all togeher between the wires with thickened epoxy. I took the wire out after the taks hardenned and it all stayed togethe nicely. I put masking take on the outside of the joint, and then fileted and glassed the inside in one step. The masking tape prevented the filet from running out and once the epoxy started to kick I peeled the tape off. After hardenning I radioused the evterior a bit and taped the outside. No issues and it came out nice. Take Care, Steve
  15. Jim....I'm in Honeoye Falls, NY. It's a couple hours to Erie, but I attended the mid atlantic small craft festival last fall, and I'm hoping to help along an event like this after seeing what it could become. I will probably bring my Sea Pearl, my spindrift 11N and the kids cardboard bats if they get it done. summer is so busy nothing is guaranteed. I hope you decide to go. Take Care, Steve
  16. Jim...she's a beauty! did you settle on "Lady Hurricane"? and do you know about this: http://www.bayfrontcenter.org/presque-isle-bay-messabout/ I'm planning on going. I'd love to see her you there. Take care Steve
  17. On my Spindrift 11N I'm just finishing, the mast is in three pieces, with the top section having a wooden extension. I took a nice pice of spanish cedar, and laminated a blank made of three pieces, with the center piece thinned so a pulley sheeve could fit nice. I then cut it on my tablesaw into a 16 sided shape close to the upper masts diameter. To make it fit into the aluminum mast, I put a fence with a stop on my router table, and raised a end bit up enough to recuce the circumfrence, and kept feeding it on the flats until it was close to the right diameter. I sanded it until it fit. , and then shaped it with a small hand plane and some sandpaper into a nice extension. Once I was done, I realized the back side could be tapered to reduce weight, so I did that. It's pretty darn light, and since it only carries a couple square feet of sail that high, I think plenty strong. I don't think carrying this idea to 2 feet would be a problem. Best part was the pulley sheave cost 1.49, and the spanish cedar was from the scrap pile. Take Care, Steve
  18. Thank you for the report. This is just what I'm thinking about. I have the stock sail now and I plan on using it, but I'd like to develope a simpler rig for simpler times. Take Care, Steve
  19. Graham, This really looks sweet. I'm just finishing a S11N (thanks for getting me the sail....christening it soon) as a practice run to build something bigger. this looks like just the ticket. I can't wait to see what it weighs, and what it looks and performs like. Keep the pictures coming. Take Care, Steve
  20. I'm done building my 11N, but I'm having a hard time getting a sail for it. I had always intended to build a simpler rig for it, so lacking a sail, maybe this is the time. Has anyone ever put a sprit rig, like the one shown on the catspaw series onto a 11N? take Care, Steve
  21. I have those top mounts on my Sea Pearl, so last night I borrowed on and hatched a plan to make some contoured blocks to allow mounting them. I think that is the best solution. Any idea how long to make oars for an 11N? I also noticed a couple of things about that pic you posted. You have couple of "stringers" on the floor. My plans don't show those. Is that something to prevent slipping when you heel? I also see that the sail is pretty big on these boats...did you ever wish for a hiking strap? I also see you mounted a mainsheet block on the centerboard. How has that worked out? Take Care, Steve
  22. There isn't much data in the plans except where to put the oarlocks themselves. I'm thinking the top mount ones through the gunnels would be best, but I'd like to know what you used. I'g guess a lot of sailing will be done from the cockpit floor, and leaning against oarlocks won't be great. Also, what length of oars do you think would be best for an 11N. The beam if I'm remembering correctly is somwhere around 50-52 inches. She's done except for the hull paint, oarlocks, and mast head extension (no sail yet) and mounting some hardware that needs a sail for placement. Take Care, Steve
  23. Garry.....I've seen this pictures in the past and I like what you did. I decided to build the boat stock and make mods if I change the purpose. The one thing I don't like is the seat board being one extra thing to bring along. the mod you did and one other I've seen eliminates that, but moves the rower forward a good 9" or so. How does this all work out? Take Care, Steve
  24. Oops, forgot the pic! Also, if you do it this way, you can very carefully set your bow in before you glue it and make sure it is going to nest. Mine did with ease, but its sure nice to know before you commit to a lot of work.
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