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Mike Vacanti

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Everything posted by Mike Vacanti

  1. What would be the advantage of the fixed sprit boom versus just going with a standard boom with a vang?
  2. The i550 class rules specify that the ballast must be no less than 150 and no more than 185 pounds. But I don't know if the Gougeon built their boat to comply with the class rules.
  3. The i550 in this years race had a ballasted daggerboard that could be retracted. It probably only drew 8 or so inches with the board up.
  4. Here is a type of boarding ladder you could build yourself, I saw this on the Duckworks website a few years ago: diy boarding ladder It doesn't look like it would cost much and it could be made to look halfway attractive.
  5. This is a kid's book but I recently read "The Lion's Paw" to my kids and they enjoyed it. I read the book in the late 60's when I was in 4th grade and I wanted to introduce it to my kids. Part of the appeal to me was because it takes place in the part of Florida where I was raised. It was written by Robb White's Father.
  6. I have an EZ Loader trailer for my 14' sailboat, the trailer weighs about 225 pounds. A trailer for a 22 foot sailboat has got to weigh at least 400 pounds (is the trailer steel or aluminum?).
  7. How would having the centerboard part way down reduce heeling?
  8. I've read all the replies to this thread and it seems to me that there are 2 different ballasting schemes being discussed. The type most common to trailerable sailboats places all the ballast low and in the middle of the hull. I've sailed on 2 different boats (Catalina 250 and Mac 26X) that used this design and neither sailed very well to weather. Both boats heeled fairly easy but at least the owners of these boats could pull the boat with a reasonable sized vehicle. This seems like the only advantage of this style of water ballast. The other type of water ballast system has tanks as far from the centerline as possible and the water must be transferred when the boat tacks. I've never sailed on this type of boat, from what I observe this is used on high performance racing boats and is very effective but a lot more hassle. Pumping water on every tack when daysailing seems too much like work to me.
  9. If the goal is to be able to wrap the sail around the mast for storage isn't the limiting factor the battens and not sleeve vs. track? If you had battenless sails I don't see why you couldn't use a track as long as you had the halyard cleat on the mast. This would give the ease of reefing of the track arrangement with the convenience of on-the-mast sail storage. And I agree that storing the sail wrapped around the mast is more convenient than removing the sail after every outing and reinstalling it at the start of every outing.
  10. Joe, I've enjoyed following the progress of your build on your blog. You do nice work. I assume the concrete is a mold to cast a lead tip for the centerboard. How long will you have to wait to make sure that there is no moisture in the concrete? How will you be completely sure the concrete is bone dry before you pour molten lead into it?
  11. You didn't mention your experience level, that will obviously make a big difference. Speaking for myself as a builder of 1 small sailboat, I couldn't even come close to finishing in 30 days. It seems like you are assuming that you can get 10 hours of work every day for 30 straight days. That seems very optimistic to me. I find that it takes me several days to get 8 actual hours of work done. There will be times when you have to let the epoxy cure before you can move on to the next task. Other folks will probably have a different opinion.
  12. Davo, thanks for the explanation. I've had similar rebuilding adventures with my Bolger Junebug. I find that it is a lot more work tearing things apart and putting them back together again than building from scratch. I've made so many mods that it is hardly worth it to put on a careful coat of paint since I'll likely be tearing it apart again soon enough. Hope you enjoy the fruits of your hard work. If you feel like it, posting a picture or two of your boat would be fun.
  13. What happened to your boat that required it to be rebuilt?
  14. I used Brightsides on my Bolger Junebug. The primer was Interlux 404/414, an epoxy. I had the same experience as Tom, the Brightsides has very little abrasion resistance. On the other hand the 404/414 is very tough. I have made extensive modifications to the boat and have had to remove paint in several areas so I could glue in pieces of wood or fiberglass cloth. The Brightsides was easy to remove with just a few passes with a carbide scraper. The 404/414 took serious effort with a RO sander loaded with a 40 grit disk.
  15. Just go to watertribe.com and you'll find all the information you asked for.
  16. I thought that Xynole was a polyester fabric but I'm not sure. I took a look here http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|10918|16458|309346&id=16176 and they show Xynole as a polyester fabric although Defender could be mistaken.
  17. I'm going to guess that Dale is referring to polyester cloth, not polyester resin. Certainly there is likely to be delamination problems with polyester resin but I've not heard of problems with polyester cloth if it is laminated with epoxy resin.
  18. This sounds like the kind of paint used on offshore oil rigs and other marine metal structures. It sure doesn't sound like something you want to paint your topsides with. I've used Interlux 404/414 epoxy primer and the 2 components are very thick when mixed together. But then a special thinner is added which makes it flow much more easily. Maybe you could inquire at the place you bought it to see if there is an appropriate thinner.
  19. I use the auto-release cleats on my Junebug's rudder and leeboard. I find that they work just fine. I got them from Duckworks, http://www.duckworksbbs.com/hardware/cleats/sd002570/index.htm
  20. Why would you have to prevent the mast from rotating a bit? I don't see what harm it will cause.
  21. I did exactly this on my Bolger Junebug. It makes washing the boat a little more difficult. I usually lay the boat on its side and hose it out, the inner gunwale traps the water and dirt. Its not a big deal.
  22. Paul, Thanks for your reply, if you don't mind I have another question. It looks like the machine screws holding the keel band in place are screwed into an oversized hole in the keel that was then filled with epoxy. Is there a nut buried in the bottom of the hole and is the green goo on the screw threads some sort of release agent? That looks like a very long lasting approach to the problem of rot around fastener holes. Regards
  23. Paul, I've been following your progress on the CS 20, the workmanship looks very nice. I was wondering why you decided to make the keel band from 2 different type of stock? If the half-oval was from Jamestown I know that it is very expensive, was the flat stock used because it was hidden from view and cheaper? Thanks
  24. I saw this article on Duckworks a while ago, http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/06/columns/rob/index5.htm. Another builders interpretation, http://xoomer.alice.it/renlione/Slipper2/scaletta.htm. This design looks easy to build and strong, I don't know how easy it would be to actually use to board the boat.
  25. I wonder if this is the same boat pictured at the top of the CS20 information page on the B&B web site.
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