Mike Vacanti
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Posts posted by Mike Vacanti
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"Lost" most of the Spring due to back issues, but have just dumped the crutches and am back to trying to finish her up this Summer. Finally got the cabin built, and glassed. Used one sheet of 1/8" marine ply for the base layer, and then rolled a layer of 5.7 oz carbon fiber cloth on top of that. Immediately gave the base sheet rigidity. Spread thickened epoxy over the carbon fiber and then laid a second sheet of 1/8"ply on top. Used a gazillion staples (3/8"galvanized) with bamboo skewers to keep them from burying completely onto the plywood. Pulled the staples, faired each layer. The cabin will already hold my weight. All of this will get covered with a top coating of 10 oz cloth.
All other deck components have been cut, and glassed. It's just a matter of being able to build up the endurance to keep up the pace.
If the cabin top will already hold your weight, why are you adding the 10 oz cloth?
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I've only built 1 boat and it wasn't a B & B design, it was a Bolger Junebug. The plan calls for planks of closed cell foam in the bow and stern for floatation. Instead, I built air chambers in the bow and stern. Each chamber has a screw in deck plate that I can remove for ventilation and inspection. I would do this again, I think it's a bit lighter and I can use the chambers for small item storage. The design calls for a fixed rudder and I changed to a kick up design. I would definitely do this again. The design had a clip on leeboard that broke the first time it touched bottom. I changed to a Jim Michalak style pivoting leeboard and I'm much happier with it.
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Alan, thanks for posting these videos. They're informative and I've really enjoyed watching them.
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I wonder if the abrasion resistance of the vacuum bagged xynole will be as good as non-vacuum bagged xynole? I wonder if the greater abrasion resistance of xynole is at least partly as a result of the thick layer of epoxy that is required to fill it.
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Amateur boatbuilding is a hobby, not a money making proposition. Depending on the level of finish it is certainly possible that an amateur built boat isn't even worth the cost of materials. I think this is in part beacause it is hard to know how well built a boat is if it is a one-off from a non-professional. There is no "blue book" value for homebuilt boats since the market is so tiny. This uncertainty leads to lower prices.
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I've found that getting a good paint finish is the most difficult part of boat building. It's the only part of my boat build that I had to redo.
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A centerboard made of plywood is weaker than one made of lumber.
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Good luck with your build. And congratulations on rasing such a nice son.
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The story of this trip would make a good article for the Small Craft Adviser magazine.
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Thanks for posting your video, that was awesome. Did you scout the route ahead of time? It seems like it would have been easy to get stuck out there.
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Thanks for posting about your trip, it sounds like quite an adventure. I hope you find time to post more details.
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Did you glue the center seam before the entire boat was wired together?
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The URL for B&B Yacht Designs is wrong.
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Interesting thought about my rudder. I didn't notice if it was less than completely down. Raising the board a bit will reduce heeling force. One problem I'm having with the new running rigging set up is that the mizzen is poorly shaped when close hauled. I need to take a look with it up in the yard. One place I deviated from the plans on the masts was that I used closet rod at the top which is about 1/8 smaller diameter than the plans call for. And, it's poplar, not fir. It flexes quite a bit. This is all the lumber yard had. I think when I haul the mizzen in close, the top flexes, causing sail shape to suffer. Does that sound logical? I am also unsure whether I've been setting the forward end of my sprit too high with the new masts. When I was sailing yesterday with so much weather helm, the mizzen would luff and I would try and sheet it in some more. From the suggestions above about easing the mizzen, I'm wondering if this is all related. More thoughts, suggestions?
How does raising the centerboard reduce heeling?
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I thought that Graham broke a sprit in 2007, not a mast.
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About a year ago this site almost shutdown. I think that Frank was able to save it by archiving much of the old content which might explain why a search doesn't find anything older than a year or so. Here is the old post where Frank explained this, http://messing-about.com/forums/topic/8166-forum-changes/.
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Somewhat depends on how you're going to apply the paint. If you're going to spray it, I won't make any suggestions, as I have no experience doing it. <snip>
If you want to spray LPU paint (perfection is a LPU) you must use a forced air respirator. When atomized, LPU paint is very toxic. When brushing it you can get away with using an organic filter mask.
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The spline would only be weaker if you made it from a smaller diameter aluminum tube. If you made it of solid Douglas Fir and extended the plug a foot or so up the existing mast it seems like that would be stronger than the existing mast. But if Graham has considered that and dismissed it I would take his word for it over my specualtion.
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Would it perhaps be easier to add the extension to the base of the mast? The additional weight would be much less of a concern and it could be made removable without any accomodation for the sail track.
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The guys who built the "Dawn Patrol" will probably chime in but until they do, here is a pointer to a photo gallery of exactly this problem:
https://picasaweb.google.com/alanosauras/DawnPatrolSNewMizzenMastBase
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If you reread the original post you'll see that he mentions that he also increased the deadrise.
p.s. I really enjoyed reading your write up of the EC2012 on Sailing Anarchy.
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Does the increased deadrise also increase the draft? If I remember correctly the draft on the original CS20 is 8", what is the draft of mk.2?
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Richard Woods has three small tris in his stable, Jim Brown/John Marples have several new designs, the W17 by Michael Waters, the Mark Gumprecht has several tris, etc. Now Alan pops out of the shadows with the B&B F18 meets adventure trimaran. I'm looking for something that I'm calling solo+, which is a solo boat with the capacity of handling two for a daysail or a bunch of supplies for an EC like expedition. Thoughts? The hobies and Windriders and Weta are sorta close, but not really on the money.
Jim Brown and John Marples stopped by the finish of the EC on a wooden trimaran designed by Brown and built at Wooden Boat School. They did not get to see Mosquito since she was not in yet.
Have you seen the A18-T by Chris Ostlind? There is an article on Duckworks that describes the design. http://www.duckworks...a18-t/index.cfm
I really enjoyed your write up of your experiences during the EC 2012.
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<snip>
These materials are also easy to cut, but precision is necessary if you want special foil sections (not completely necessary BTW).
<snip>
I'm interested in your statement that special foil sections are not completely necessary. What do you mean by this? Is a simpler shape nearly as good? Thanks.
-Mike
Aluminum vs Wood spars
in B & B Yachts Forum
Posted
In one of Alan's excellent videos that describe his build of a CS 15 (#12, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MiTKRlCRQq4&index=13&list=PLCCJRycps-_mbO-Lfdr0s8OZX-4QOZCzL), he specifically addresses this issue. He builds a ramp out of fiberglass to make a smooth transition from the larger to the smaller tube.