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Mike Vacanti

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Posts posted by Mike Vacanti

  1. I stand corrected, I saw a picture on the Ronstan website that showed a lashing through the center and I incorrectly assumed that was the only way to rig the block. I too much prefer lashings, they are much quieter than shackles.

    • Like 2
  2. I have run into this issue on a build many years ago. I used a one-part primer (West Marine store brand) over WEST epoxy and it never cured. I ended up sanding all the primer off and then applied Interlux 404/414 2-part epoxy primer (now called Epoxy Primekote). The Primekote cured just fine and sanded very nicely. I thought it was a reasonably high-build primer. The Primekote is also very tough. If I were painting a new build I'd certainly use the Primekote. One warning, the fumes from the Primekote are pretty noxious. Be sure to use a good organic respirator.

  3. 21 hours ago, Walt S. said:

    Steve,

     

    Re: the galvanized/aluminum choice, the guy at WestMarine suggested buying a painted trailer if you can't find a galvanized one and just adding sacrificial zincs to it to keep it from rusting.

     

    I don't know if there are any aluminum trailers for a CS20 - I don't think Trailex makes any that big and they're the only aluminum trailer manufacturer I could find.  

    Be sure to ignore the advice of that particular West Marine guy in the future...

    • Like 1
  4. I've had the same problem when painting a primer over WEST Sytems epoxy. I painted the whole boat (Bolger Junebug) before I realized it was never going to dry properly. I had to strip it all off and put on a coat of Interlux 2-part epoxy primer. I think it was called 404/414. The epoxy primer adhered tenaciously and the Brightsides I put over it dried just fine. 

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