Mike Vacanti

Todd, Holy cow, thanks for sharing your harrowing story.

Here is a video that shows one way to do this. This channel has a lot of interesting boatbuilding videos. Mark a waterline on a dinghy

On the CS 20 page there is descriptive text but the pictures being referred to don't show up.

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There is a German company that markets an auto-inflating masthead float that might keep the boat from turtling. It's not cheap but it would greatly reduce the windage compared to a solid float, auto-inflating masthead float

Peter mentioned a breakaway cleat, here is a great example available through Duckworks

Here is a description of a poor man's CNC: DIY NACA foils

When I wrote a reply to your thread right above the box where I typed my response there are several editing buttons. One of them controls strike-through. Simply select the text that you inadvertently enabled strike-through and then click the strike-through button. Edited: I tried to go back and edit my post and I notice that the strike-through button is not available when editing an exisiting post.

Is the filler oil-based?

Man, that is a really good looking boat...

I stand corrected, I saw a picture on the Ronstan website that showed a lashing through the center and I incorrectly assumed that was the only way to rig the block. I too much prefer lashings, they are much quieter than shackles.

I don't think the block on your mizzen sheet is rigged correctly. The lashing should pass through the hole in the center of the sheave.

What a beautiful boat, I really like that color.

Kennneee is right, what you already have may work just fine. Just don't paint the whole boat to test it out.

I'm pretty sure it's not blush that causes the issue. I scrupulously cleaned the cured epoxy before applying the primer but it still never dried. I've read explanations for the problem but can't explain it myself.

I have run into this issue on a build many years ago. I used a one-part primer (West Marine store brand) over WEST epoxy and it never cured. I ended up sanding all the primer off and then applied Interlux 404/414 2-part epoxy primer (now called Epoxy Primekote). The Primekote cured just fine and sanded very nicely. I thought it was a reasonably high-build primer. The Primekote is also very tough. If I were painting a new build I'd certainly use the Primekote. One warning, the fumes from the Primekote are pretty noxious. Be sure to use a good organic respirator.

Be sure to ignore the advice of that particular West Marine guy in the future...

This year Spawn had a crew of 2. In a previous year they did have a crew of 3.

The winning boat, finished Sunday night. So their time was more like 1 day and 13 hours. The results page on the Water Tribe site is wrong.

There is a 5th entry, Swimboy in a Core Sound 17. He's signed up for the Florida Coastal Challenge

I believe he renamed the boat "Cool Change".

Thanks for posting the video, the quality was very good. What made you decide to add a mizzen?

That might be the quickest build I've ever seen on this board. Nice job.

I'm not familiar with Devthane so I'm not sure if it has the same handling requirements as other types of 2-part linear polyurethane paints (LPU). I do know that it is not recommended to spray 2-part LPU unless the operator has a forced air respirator. A regular respirator is inadequate.

Another option is a Ronstan Shock sheaveless block. I think it might work well in this application.