Mike Vacanti

The 20 minute induction time is before the thinner is added and is explicitly called for by the manufacturer.

There is another way to attach a halyard that is easy to undo and allows the sail to use the full hoist of the halyard. Here is a picture: knotless halyard attach

Here is a commercially made auto-inflating mast head float, Secumar. I've never used one of these or even seen one. I imagine it would be raised to the mast head using a continuous line halyard. It's also fairly expensive and it would have to be ordered from Germany. But it would have less windage than a solid float.

You probably don't have the correct CODEC installed. Usually a message to that effect will pop up when you try to open the video.

Spawn is a class 4 boat that finished 6 hours behind Randy Smyth's Nacra catamaran. It is a seriously fast boat and the guys who sail it really know what they are doing.

Topside paint is not waterproof, it is normal for it to bubble or lift if soaked in water for a week.

What type of plywood to use for small boat construction is a source of never ending debate in internet discussions. Personally, I wouldn't build a boat with anything other than name brand marine plywood. Joubert and Brynzeel are 2 very good manufacturers. I know that some low quality far eastern manufacturers stamp their plywood with 1088 but it's really meaningless. The reputation of the manufacturer is the important thing.

There is really only 3 things that could cause the epoxy to not harden. 1. The temperature is too low. 2. The resin-hardener ratio was incorrect. How did you measure the resin and hardener? 3. The epoxy is defective. This seems the least likely culprit.

What a good looking boat, thanks for posting. More pictures would be welcome.

A single layer of glass is no where near 1/16", here is a handy table from the WEST Systems epoxy folks, laminate thickness

It looks like there is no fiberglass sheathing on that rudder.

Pete, I noticed that the weight of the boat with all gear but no crew is 1350 ponds. Did you actually put the boat on a scale to get this number? Thanks for publishing your owners manual, it was interesting to read.

It's also possible that you didn't thin the primer enough.

Todd, Holy cow, thanks for sharing your harrowing story.

Here is a video that shows one way to do this. This channel has a lot of interesting boatbuilding videos. Mark a waterline on a dinghy

On the CS 20 page there is descriptive text but the pictures being referred to don't show up.

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There is a German company that markets an auto-inflating masthead float that might keep the boat from turtling. It's not cheap but it would greatly reduce the windage compared to a solid float, auto-inflating masthead float

Peter mentioned a breakaway cleat, here is a great example available through Duckworks

Here is a description of a poor man's CNC: DIY NACA foils

When I wrote a reply to your thread right above the box where I typed my response there are several editing buttons. One of them controls strike-through. Simply select the text that you inadvertently enabled strike-through and then click the strike-through button. Edited: I tried to go back and edit my post and I notice that the strike-through button is not available when editing an exisiting post.

Is the filler oil-based?

Man, that is a really good looking boat...

I stand corrected, I saw a picture on the Ronstan website that showed a lashing through the center and I incorrectly assumed that was the only way to rig the block. I too much prefer lashings, they are much quieter than shackles.

I don't think the block on your mizzen sheet is rigged correctly. The lashing should pass through the hole in the center of the sheave.