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Everything posted by hokeyhydro

  1. Convoluted history on Hot Rods. Don't know squat about the original Champion - guy named Tom Moulder built the Champ & created the early Hot Rods, main upgrade was the Lectron Carb. The Lectrons were fiddly to set up but after original set up were sweet - about 10 seconds to change the main jet. Moulder sold out to Dave Little who was the guy I dealt with. Little made numerous changes: Changed the twin row of 64 rice size needle bearings on the rods to caged rollers, OMC fuel pump & ignition,and later Motoplat ignition and on one of my newer 20 c.i. engines had a "full circle" crank and no flywheel, just a rope plate. Without the flywheel weight that sucker had instant throttle response. Now a new company has the Hot Rod and they have dumped rotary induction and went to reeds. Easy to start, but lost top end horsepower. They also dumped the Lectron but after their third or maybe fourth carb change I heard a rumor the Lectron is back. American Hot Rod acquired the nickname "American Hand Grenade" because the high revving engine was known to come apart. It was the only race engine with "head catchers" which were supposed to keep most of the engine sort of in the same place when they went. It was about revs - with rotary induction you could tune it to run close to 10 thousand RPM. I had mine tuned to run around 8,600 and ran her about 10 years before getting out - never had a grenade, and it was fast, So fast one of our inspectors was convinced I was running a 20 block instead of a 15. I love Hot Rods, love the sound, and really loved the heft = 54 lbs. No hernias for me. Like you I like slow now. Dive #1 almost done, Diva #2 ready for stitches, and one of these days I hope to assemble a CS-15 before the paper plans turn all yellow.
  2. Get ready! This summer after the offshore race in Morehead City they had a poker run. Couple of our local racers asked if they could enter a C runabout. Green light, so they installed a fuel pump on the Yamato (OEM gravity feed) and a portable tank in the boat, and then dropped in a J driver, Johnny, who was about 13 at the time. Morehead through the inlet up the Neuse to Oriental and back = 50 miles. Johnny finished and instantly acquired the nickname "Captain Cajones." The race committee liked the show and wants MORE CLAMP ONS next year, so get your stuff ready!
  3. Fairly busy. The one in Beaufort - Gallants Channel - has lots of grass/sand acres to park rigs. Last time I checked the one on Radio Island in the heat of the season it was kind of jammed up and a few rigs were parked off the side of the road on the grass. I would suggest up early, launch at the crack of dawn . . .
  4. Brand new ramp on Radio Island just over the bridge from Morehead, and a nice big ramp at Gallant's Channel just inside the Beaufort bridge.
  5. A stocker! From about `83 to mid-90s I raced stocks and occasionally MOD and PRO. Friend had me driving a 250ccH - what a hoot! My fav classes were 15ssH and BSH with my Hot Rod engines. The Mercury in the garage is a 1956 Mark 25 Hurricane. A previous owner sprayed it flat black but it is Sunset Orange and Sand Tan, the exact color scheme of my Mark 25 back in my youth = on the water at age 11, and the 25 was my fourth engine as I moved up the HP range.One of these years I'll get her back in one piece and running. Racing was my boat building addiction grew - built all our race boats. Back then to meet the get `er done time squeeze our shop motto was hammer to fit, file to shape, paint to hide.
  6. Almost ready to launch! Well, getting closer anyway. Hull & deck have enough epoxy on them, time to wet sand and paint/varnish soon as I finish rudder install. Today I will punch holes in the deck to rig the Spectra steering lines and rudder uphaul line which run through small nylon tubing. Flush hatches with internal bungees to hold them down. The seat backrest is done and installed - sling seat also done. Sanding & painting next up. Oh yeah - 4mm hull panels and bulkheads for #2 are already cut out.
  7. Yes, in my experience Stoltz makes good rollers. Pricey, but you really only need one tough roller on the tail end of the trailer. The rest of them don't take much load.
  8. April in Eastern Carolina is usually gorgeous, as in warm, maybe even hot on some days.
  9. The drawings I have seem clear enough. It appears the step slam forward in the bow and as low as can be and still have a platform for the mast & mast tube. Exact position would be set by dialing in mast rake through the king plank hole - I think mast rake is 3 degrees.
  10. Good choice. The CS 20 is a beauty but I estimate build time and cost would double. When I finally get going I'll build a CS-15 - would like a CS-17 but as our Designer told me on time: "The smaller the boat, the bigger the adventure!" Besides, my build space is cramped. A 17 would be a squeeze.
  11. I've considered that - coating all but glue line areas. And I have considered peel ply to avoid secondary bond sanding. Rolls of peel ply strip is available in 1" on up widths = 50 yard rolls for about $12. I stil can't find actual test data on primary/secondary bond strength and my amateur garage tests came out dead even = wood breaks on both situations.
  12. Oh, almost forgot. Dive as in pics lacking final finish, fabric seat and seat back and rudder assembly weighs in at 37#. Deck is glassed both sides, and hull is sheathed with 4 oz cloth. I figured hull glassing added between a shade over 3#.
  13. Update. Paddle needs one more finish coat and weighs 32 oz - perfect. Hybrid WRC strip deck with glass on underside was a tad lighter than the bare ply 4mm deck panels = cool. I hot glued a couple temp frames in the hull, blue taped the frames and chines, and glued a mess of cedar strips together. Then I popped the one piece WRC strip deck off, flipped, scraped & sanded, and added a layer of 4 oz fiberglass. Then pop temp frames out, final clean up of glue surfaces on hull, gluie deck on. Then comes scraping, sanding and more sanding before laminating a layer of glass cloth to the WRC deck. Pic of deck awaiting final sand and epoxy coat. And pic of cut out hatches which need to be cleaned up and finished - one upside down so you can see the frame. Also pic of paddle built to Graham's plan. Not a "feathered" version, were all novices. Birdsmouth shaft and 4mm blades - blades sheathed with 1.45 oz glass.
  14. Ex-K = the stern was narrowed 1"+, the board thickness reduced about 3/4", and the deck was cambered slightly - about 3/16". Also the forefoot was made a tad deeper. CLCs estimate of 32# for the 14' SUP is dreaming - both boards came out around 40#. Only way you can get close to 32# is to forget glass cloth - hulls sheathed with 4 oz - and just epoxy coat them. I am building Graham's Diva kayak now and his weight estimate is on target.
  15. pictures - Kaholo & Ex-K (Kaholo modified) paddles, paddle blade, daughter off on SUP adventure, Manteo, NC.
  16. Yep, heavy duty and has replaceable blades.
  17. What I figured since most of the joints on my race boats were secondary. Only problem I see with a total precoat is if the epoxy goes full cure - not green - sometimes the panels don't want to assume designed curves because they get stiff, But as ,mentioned precoating many panels is far easier than coating after they become a boat and you have to work around bulkheads, frames, and whatall.
  18. I use poly rollers - the orange translucent ones. I think they are tough and run on a solid shaft. Course the wood/epoxy catamaran only goes about 160 fully rigged and rides up on two rollers, one for each hull. Have a black roller on the runabout trailer and it is junk, but I just bury the trailer and float the boat on or drive it on. Steel trailer, so I'll be trailer shopping this spring. Rust never sleeps . . .
  19. Latest WoodenBoat mag #229 has scale drawings of a CLC Kaholo - 12' 6" version I think. Or you can order plans from CLC, and CLC offers full kit or frames ($49) which are the only parts that require mucho cutting and hole sawing. I cut all the hull/deck/side panels out of 3mm with a Japanese pull saw - easy. Built the paddle as well = combo of western red cedar and cypress strips "birdsmouth" shaft and 2 layers of 1/4" balsa shaped and seathed in 3 oz fiberglass. Paddle weighed in at 21.5 Oz - 1.5 Oz heavier than a $400 carbon fiber paddle! And it looks way cooler with rice paper designs under the epoxy.
  20. RE: WEST resin or like epoxy marine resins. After dozens of builds, many race boats that undergo max stress, I have never had a "secondary" epoxy joint let go, yet some folks raise a red flag over secondary bonds. Has anyone here actually tested the strength difference between primary & secondary bonds? Or tested the difference between a secondary bond made by coarse sanding the substrate epoxy coated base v. secondary bond made after removing peel ply?
  21. Indeed, Graham. My family & friends in NJ, NY, and New England have a huge mess to clean up. I am one local who will have to skip the messabout - my daughter will be in the first annual SUP race in New Bern. SUP = stand up paddleboard,
  22. After reading posts above I went out and picked up a carbide scraper. My new fav tool. The thicker blade doesn't seem to chatter and skip like the thin steel Red Devil blades, it just shaves, and shaves, and shaves . . .
  23. true. Auto paints went to base + clear years ago. Bummer. And an auto paint shop is no guarantee of a great job. Rear bumper on Milady's PT was replaced and painted a couple years ago after a goober did vehicular sodomy on her car. Clear coat is blistering and peeling. Shop warranty = 90 days - so sad, to bad.
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