hokeyhydro
-
Posts
465 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
4
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Posts posted by hokeyhydro
-
-
Another vote for B&B epoxy. I've been using it recently and find no fault with it. Do the math B&B v. WEST and your checkbook will jump for joy.
-
A trick I've used when I can't drag something under a drill press for a true bore, is to carefully cut a perpendicular through a square or round length of polystyrene. This is placed in the oversize hole and usually a dot of hot melt glue, to hold it upright. Epoxy is poured around the foam and when it cures, acetone is used to melt the foam out of the hole, leaving a perfect hole for a pivot bolt or whatever. Naturally it is handy to size the foam to the finished bore diameter, but an under size foam blank will permit a centered pilot hole, to be finial sized after the casting.
I used that trick to make one-off test hulls for R/C model racing yachts back in the 70s. I would shape a hull out of foam, tightly drape it with cling wrap to keep the old school polyester resin from attacking the foam, and lay up a hull. No acetone needed, although I usually had a 5 gallon pail working in the shop, as gasoline worked just dandy to melt the foam away, and back then gas was kinda cheap.
-
Thanks for the info. Keep us posted on the finished setup. I'm not sure I fully understand it yet but I may want to do something similar on mine.
If you look at pic #1 on the left you'll see the SS gudgeon I mounted on the kayak tail to receive the rudder post. That method leaves a 2 1/4" gap between the kayak stern and leading edge of the rudder.
In pic #2 on the right the rudder post will go into the hole and I'll have to shave about 1/8" off the kayak tail to provide clearance for the rudder. A nice snug fit. The epoxy pour saves weight over the SS gudgeon, and saves $$.
The end pour method is good for pointy tail kayaks, might not work on blunt tail kayaks since the steering bar part of the rudder assembly is about 3" wide and would need to be set back far enough to clear the transom.
-
That is Graham's recommendation for a rudder installation on the Dive kayak. Do an end pour and then drill a 3/8" hole for the rudder post. Right. My freehand perfectly vertical drilling skill is suspect, and I figured blocking and leveling the kayak under my drill press would be a major PITA, so on Diva #123 I went with the bolt on SS gudgeon. (see pic).
On Diva #125 I decided to do the pour. But not the drilling. I glued in a small wedge of wood with a forstner bit 3/8" dead end hole about 3" down, used a 3/8" dowel to establish vertical, glued on a strip of scrap ply to form a vertical dam, and then installed my drill cheater = a 3/8" shank bolt with the threaded part cut off. Then I did the filled epoxy pour. When cured I fired up the blue tip wrench, heated the bolt and removed it, leaving a nice vertical 3/8" hole! (see pic of bolt and hole)
I'm liking this method and may use it again, say for centerboard & case drilling.
-
Wow. Best get some oven pads to insulate the mast from the painted surface. Be interesting to measure the actual mast temp under those conditions, and maybe take a second look at what kind of paint you use.I'm thinking if it scorched boat paint the mast paint would have blistered off.
-
Wow. Best get some oven pads to insulate the mast from the painted surface. Be interesting to measure the actual mast temp under those conditions, and maybe take a second look at what kind of paint you use.I'm thinking if it scorched boat paint the mast paint would have blistered off.
-
Huh?So you're saying your mast - aluminum? - got so hot in the sun it burned your paint??? Sure it wasn't aluminum *rub* like tracks left by Al when it rubs against anything? Epoxy gets soft around 200 plus degrees F, so hot enough to burn paint would probably soften the goo underneath. It will get hard when it cools.
-
Nice review in Wooden Boat mag #230 on page 90.
-
That looks close. I can't remember what they are called, but many moons ago my friend a tin knocker (auto body man) brought over his 10" angle grinder with a scalloped edge backer disk that sort of free wheeled on the drive pad. He said it was the cats meow to level out body work, and then proceeded to demo his cool toy on a car we were repainting. Since I was used to long boarding work to get the proper surface I was amazed. The funny looking scalloped wheel did the job in mere minutes.
Your square with rounded corners platen looks similar and I believe it will work just dandy. Course I'm not sure about the free wheel part - Buddy's disk kind of spun loose until you applied pressure to the work.
-
Launch day! Diva got wet and I took her for a cruise. Impressions - tender when sitting still but settles down in motion. When I first boarded her I'm thinking wow, I'm gonna get wet, but since Graham designed it I decided to trust the boat and took off on a paddle. No problems, not even busting through a large cruiser wake.
Rudder: I believe one could do without it. Rudder rig added about 4#. Going upwind It seemed so-so and I retracted it, but downwind the kayak got the wanders so I dropped the rudder and it tracked. Also seemed more responsive to input. Then Daughter tried her out. She liked the rudder.
Pics: B&B logo and hull number I printed on rice paper and buried under resin. Me embarking on maiden voyage - pic shot a few seconds before I realized the paddle was oriented left/right incorrectly = opps. Diva on the beach alongside the SUP I built my daughter.
-
Yeah, and I recall Indy cars running methanol, and the APBA boat racing category called PRO is allowed to use any fuel that exists as a liquid at atmospheric pressure and methanol - not ethanol - is their fuel of choice. Like ethanol methanol burns at around 9:1 air/fuel ratio so the PRO engines use a lot of fuel to go around the race course. Dubya was sitting in the oval office, or on one of his numerous vacations at the ranch, when the big push via EPA caused nearly every gas pump to spew ethanol laced fuel. About mid-2000s it was hard to avoid it.
-
If you check the specs on the Suzuki I'm sure you will discover the 40, 50, and 60 have the same displacement. Manufacturers "tune" the horsepower on same size blocks by altering the intake manifold and carburetor throat size, or for fuel injection, modifying the "black box" mapping and intake size, as well as adjustments to the exhaust tuning. In my experience a 9.9 and 15 are the same basic engine, and 20, 25 as well.
Eyeballing the Marissa lines I would say a 25 would run it, a 40 would be better if you have a lot of 2xx friends. Sizewise the Marissa compares to my 18 1/2' Starcraft aluminum V hull which goes about 800 lbs dry. That has a 2 stroke Yamaha 115 which is overkill. Jacked up a notch it will do 60, dropped down to the transom 52 on ethanol free fuel, 48 on George W corn liquor fuel, which after numerous carb rebuilds and a trashed fuel pump will never be put in my fuel tank again. Any speed over 40 requires a lot of attention to water conditions etc, so 40 to 50 HP would be a nice choice. Get power trim & tilt, and make sure whatever engine you choose has prop options as to pitch and blade shape.
-
One of my neighbors is interesting in rowing activity, as in sculls and such. Anyone know people or groups in the New Bern area + 40 or so miles area that are into sculling?
-
By jump-it you mean jump box? Can't use my jump box for screw removal til it gets off charge . . . ran that puppy dead welding with coat hangers . . .
-
Thanks Howard - makes me feel better about all the stringers that went straight from the surface planer to the glue pot because I was too lazy to sand them :-)
-
Hmmm . . . never heard about doug fir not liking epoxy, but rumor sez white oak is a bugger to glue and should be sanded and wiped with acetone prior to a glue-up. I prefer a sanded surface to give some separation of the parts when glued. Hint: An FAA build inspection of a wood airplane requires epoxy glue lines of a "pencil line" width. A skinny joint fails because the FAA considers it weaker, and a fat joint fails because it adds unnecessary weight, and airplanes dislike extra weight.
That stem curve is very attractive - gonna be one pretty boat.
-
10' long would be a Class A/B stock runabout. Engines OMC A racing engine = basic 15 w/racing lower, and Hot Rod 15 c.i. or 20 c.i. or any Merc from 15 to 25 c.i.
kits available - plenty of used rigs available.
-
B&B Yacht's phone service was offline for a spell - working now, but tomorrow is T-Day so might have to wait until Friday or Monday.
-
One other point- on the Rustoleum paints- We used the spar varnish on Traveler just before a Tex 200 one year. Within three weeks it was lifting from the sun. And yes, we KNOW how to prep- ran a furniture repair shop for 20 years
Spar varnish - I've used Minwax Helmsman gloss spar varnish - quick drying, nice finish, hard but seems to scratch easy, and Ace hardware (no clue who makes it) gloss spar varnish, slower drying but a nice finish with a bit more varnish amber than Helmsman. The Ace varnish is on my daughter's wood/epoxy catamaran and it gets beat up. After two seasons of bruising everyone who sailed it thye cat needs a little touch up and some sort of scuff guard deal where the tillers run up on the deck when the rudders retract.
P.S. with your skill I have no doubt you know how to prep so I will scratch Rustoleum varnish from my list of test finishes.i
-
The first time I painted my belhaven I used rustoleum marine paint on the decks and cabin top. It held up better than the Kirby's that I painted the hull sides with, but still stained like all single part paints.
Aye, staining may be a problem since closest water is Brice's Creek, tannin stained swamp spillage, and the Trent, which is brackish water thinned pig poop. Dealing with stain back in my racing days when a weekend in the Roanoke River left mung on my rigs I used a strong mix of Spic & Span to soak it clean.
-
The problem found with oyster white is it gets dirty easily, and the big box stores all seem to sell flat (hides problems with wood nicely). I upgraded my paint to Petitt easy poxy for about $5 and was much happier. Abrasion wise, Rustoleum was not impressive, the two part primer from Interlux held up really really well on bottom. If you know anyone with a Port Supply at West Marine, Interlux becomes very affordable and better priced then Rustoleum at Lowes.
Flat? At my Lowes all the Rustoleum Marine top coat was gloss. Flat, and even semi-gloss paint tends to collect dirt and grime easier, so I avoid that style
-
I understand most of your boat is composite material, but you mentioned a tarp cover over the winter. In my long experience a standard "blue tarp" is evil. They trap moisture and will rust out a car or motorcycle inj one winter. A blue tarp will also create an ideal environment to rot wood and grow mold. True canvas tarps are way better. A "tented" blue trap isn't as bad as direct contact draped blue tarp, but I even avoid that trick now. I see a building nearby in one pic - a shed roof lean-to would do fine.
-
I doubt this alkaloid base paint has the abrasion resistance required by a kayak which will be dragged over all sorts of nasty bits, but I'm giving it a whirl. One coat of primer which is heavy and I sanded most of it off, just left the fill spots behind. Just finished first coat of finish, both primer and top coat applied with a thin foam roller.
Both primer and top coat glossed out well without any tipping off other than a final roll with no pressure, as in the weight of the roller only - a light touch.
Primer requires mondo mixing, probably should have employed a power device such as mixer thingy in a portable drill, but no, I just stirred and stirred, and stirred. A two beer mix. Primer is thick and lots of filler stuff clotted in the bottom.Top coat easy mix.
The paint stinks. I was weather trapped in a two car garage and by the time I finished rolling on primer I had a wicked buzz. For the top coat I cracked open my impressive arsenal of spray equipment and found my activated charcoal paint fume respirator and wore that. Sweet. I was breathing clear air while the garage bugs were gasping.
According to the can directions, recommended drying time at my unheated garage temp of near 60 F. was 16 hours. Actually the paint was touch dry in a few hours. Primer had a good 24 + before a caught a break and had time to sand it, and it sanded well. Next up, scuff the top coat down and add a second coat - the Oyster White over spotty primer & resin/Fg coated okoume didn't hide perfectly in one coat.
Anyhoo, barring any major paint malfunctions in the near future I would say this paint may a good choice for a less expensive finish since the color costs about $12 and is available at the Big Box stores (i.e. Lowes). But as mentioned, the fumes are noxious so pick up an activated charcoal twin respirator as well.
-
Yeah, I will try to make your planned Spring messabout for sure and thyen we can swap racing lies. Guy on WB forum who goes by Wizbang 13 has a cool little runabout design. If I built one I would attempt to reproduce from memory, since A.N.A. has no drawings or info from the `50s, the runabout upon which I misspent my youth. It was a plywood 14' boat manufactured by A.N.A. - Associated Naval Architects. But for now I will stick to paddles and sails - more my speed since my aging speedometer doesn't go very high anymore :-)
Any Gotchya's to watch out for on Spindrift?
in B & B Yachts Forum
Posted
Yes, that joint at the bow is stressed when going 3D. Glass on both sides, of course, and one suggestion from Graham is to drywall screw a small scrap ply patch on both sides I seem to recall about 3" or 4" square) right where the panels split. This will keep the joint intact as some have been known to crack.
For those ugly tape edges I use a carbide scraper after the epoxy kicks but is still a bit "green". Shaves it right off. Carbide scrapers are not hard to find, got one from Lowes and another from a Mom & Pop hardware store in town.