hokeyhydro

Much discussion over centerboard foiling and the like, but query is traction related. I believe standing on the centerboard is SOP for righting a capsized dingy. I plan to coat my board with graphite/epoxy mix mainly because it looks cool and if the boat goes a smidgen faster that would be neat, but graphite is slippery and I imagine trying to stand on a slippery board would be an adventure. Will I need a traction strip? Shoes with tree-frog suction feeties?

Getting iffy - Naughty Lady is being bad, battery is DOA, so I need to find a slice of time to swap it in.

Drive-on (float-on) trailers are low. My 18' runabout is on a drive-on and with the 4" drop axle it came wit5h it is so low I can't trim the outboard down without hitting the dirt.

I agree,tacking does waste time, but my latest builds are small boats and goobing fillets fat enough to clear the wires adds weight and creates a fillet way bigger than it needs to be, so I tack. Plus I have short time windows and I can wind & tack before dashing of to work and then proceed to add fillets & tape in stages later in the week.

"Winding." = lay two sticks a good deal wider than boat across the sheer - one near bow, one near stern, both perpendicular to center line. Then step back, kinda way back, and sight along center line at stick level. Sticks should line up. If not, twist (wind) the hull until they do. After "winding" a hull I carefully, without disturbing the hull, tack weld the seams with goo w/filler. Once the goo cures you're good to go, pop wires and add fillets.

Thistle jib = 55.7 square feet.

Yes, I would rathe have a guard in place w/splitter and those toothy things that grab the wood if it tries to kick back. But my guard is parked so I can violate table saw rules = rip from the outside of the board. Right, got to rip a gazillion 1/4" thick WRC strips. Am I going to reset the rip fence each time and hope I get the exact 1/4" measure? Noooo way. I set the fence at 1/4" and rip away. This precludes the use of the guard since at 1/4" it won't fit betwixt the fence & blade. I do set up a feather board, easy to reset every couple passes, and that has some grab power for kickbacks. And I gear up, sturdy gloves, safety goggles, etc.

Shaking the dust bunnies off my ancient brain cells, I recall normally aspirated model airplane engines didn't seem to have a problem with altitude. Those engines were 2-stroke and ran on methanol & oil. Back in the 80s when I owned a hobby shop I witnessed two of our Washington D.C. area pilots duke it out for an altitude record at Dahlgren VA NAS. The winner went over 31,000 feet with his radio control plane. The radio Rx & battery pack had to be heated to work, but the glow ignition engine ran like a champ.

MAF = Mass Air Flow Sensor. Fuel injected cars use them along with several other sensors to maximize engine/fuel efficiency and minimize nasty emissions.

I used a tennis racket - see bee, wind up - POW!It was kinda fun and my goal was to punt that sucker clear out to the fence about 50' away. A couple made the trip. For holes I'd spray in carb cleaner, had plenty of that around, then plug them with caulk.

Will anyone have a VHF radio in play? Since I will be a latecomer, if I can break loose, VHF would be useful to locate the pack.

I'm sure PAR is talking a 12" square. Yes, you would need to center the arbor but if it was a smidgen out of whack it will still work just fine. My "tin knocker" (auto body guy) had a rig like that and was semi-amazing. He could knock down a bondo job that looked like it had been applied by a monkey and have it primer ready before I finished my cup of coffee.

If the bushing is for a rotating joint, such as a CB or rudder tilt pin, I mix graphite powder in as a filler.

I always agree with my wife. There are no other options . . . :-)

No driftwood - must bring your own firewood. Scrounging wood from the beach/dunes on the Shack is forbidden. Campfire allowed, must build it below the high tide line. Bring a camp shovel to dig a latrine. That weekend is a training weekend for me but I might be able to cut loose Saturday afternoon . . .

If the CS-20 is like the CS-17 and CS-15, and I'm sure it is, the mizzenmast is located on the centerline and a few inches forward of the aft end of the centerboard trunk, which means the CB must be offset. Since a CS-20 won the Everglades Challenge this year, and a CS-17 came in a hot second, I deduce the offset CB does not affect performance :-)

The Wooden Boat Magazine Eco challenge which the Marissa won asked for a boat that burned less than 2 gallons per hour while cruising at 15 knots with 650 pounds aboard = 4 adults. I think a crew of 4 is reasonable, but 6 would be a squeeze on a craft this size. I mentally compare the Marissa with my 18 1/2, V hull aluminum runabout - that boat has a 1987 issued capacity plate for 8 passengers. Apparently folks weren't as porky in 1987. 8 people on board would mean they'd sort be laying in a pile since room is limited, so one must consider the comfort factor, and 6 on a boat that size is still kind of tight. An Okracoke 20 might be a better choice for your planned adventures.

carts are the bomb! I made one about 3' x 8' with 6" castor wheels. Like makenmend's rig, the bottom is a tray which of course is now quite full of cut-offs and pre-cut boat parts. I fashion cradles to fit different boats and screw them on to the 2 x 6 cart end blocks.

Since the topic of this thread joining panels, as in butt joint, I believe "1/8" refers to the bevel ratio of a standard scarf joint.

Tom types faster than I do :-) So B&B has added a finger joint to the stepped scarf? Very clever idea. Right about the wax paper - sometimes it will become "one" with the epoxy, annoying. I stretch and tape down poly to avoid wrinkles, gave up on cling wrap because it is near impossible to get that down wrinkle free, and for small joints I like those clear Mylar file covers available at an office supply store. One of these days I'll hunt larger pieces of Mylar since that creates glass smooth joints.

??? When I visited the B&B shop the CNC machine was cutting a "gear tooth" edge on joints such as the chine, and a "stepped scarf" joint for panel joins. I reckon Graham may have shifted to gear tooth for butt joins since even the stepped scarf edge is fragile for shipping kit parts. Anyhow, to address your stacked panel join question: stacking insures that you make two perfectly matched halves. Alignment is critical because just a tad askew at the joint, say 1/32" off, becomes a huge target miss at the ends. You could do one, and then the other, but to make sure the halves match you should do #2 on top of #1. Stacking and gluing in one operation is faster, only have to wait for one glue set to kick off. As for glue joint observation you can't see the bottom side anyway, and the stack joints I've done came out well.

CB looks good. No need to sweat the knot in a strip laminated build unless it's loose. I strip build my rudders as well using Western Red Cedar. Those I finish clear = pretty. The rudder blank is thick enough to carve an NACA airfoil shape and before shaping I use my router to shave down the top section to fit into the cheek blocks of the rudder assembly. Sheathed in fiberglass they are fairly strong. The wood epoxy 14' catamaran I built was sitting on the beach with the mast stepped when a T-Storm ripped through and a the 50+ wind gusts flipped the cat end for end twice. According to witnesses it was quite a show. Only damage was a rudder. The tip where the ash tiller was attached broke off. Took me maybe ten minutes after the wood dried out to glue it back together and lay another layer of glass on it = good to go. Note: I use Titebond to glue up strip blanks because the sawed parts fit tight and are clamped tight which is not a good plan for epoxy glues since they like a pencil line width glue line whereas the tighter you squeeze the better Titebond likes it. Some folks mix ground walnut shells or the like in epoxy to provide "shim" to form a thicker glue line, I just stick (pun alert!) with Titebond for tight clamp jobs.

If you wouldn't mind sharing... is the 3/8ths specified in the plans? ...or is that you choice for some reason? THXYes. CS-17 plan calls for 3/8" (9 mm) bottom panels aft, as in about the last 2/3rds of the hull. Froward sections are 1/4" (6 mm) as they have some bending to do.

Junk wood as far as *marine* quality as viewed by a purist. Basic lumberyard construction SPF (spruce/pine/fir) 2X whatever, surface planed and ripped into square strips. I marked the wood before ripping and then flipped every other piece end for end and rotated a few to get the cross grain orientation I liked, then slobbered Titebond III on them and racked them up with several bar clamps. The alternate end for end flip is supposed to equalize warp stress and result in a stable laminated board. Must work because my roughed out blank has been laying around for about a year and is dead straight. The fun part = shaping the blade to an NACA airfoil, yet to be completed. I used a router w/edge guide - the router path of travel was longways on blade - and dialed the bit down as I moved toward the edge, leaving a thin (1/8") "rib" at full thick to support the router. Result: a blade with roughed out grooves which will simplify the planing, grinding, and sanding process to achieve a nice foiled blade. Haven't started that dusty part yet - got sidetracked building stand up paddle boards and kayaks for darling Daughter. My finish plan is one layer of 6 oz fiberglass, doubled at leading edge and tip, weave filled with resin with graphite filler. Unless one is measuring micro-knots I doubt the graphite coated blade is much of a performance enhancement but it looks really cool.

My CB is laminated out of wood strips. Then I cut the front of the tip off (diagonal cut about 3"-4" at widest point) and then epoxy the tip back on. Theory is if you drag the board on an abrasive bottom and shave off the epoxy/glass coating the water sucked up will stop at the glue line. Of course the entire board is sheathed in glass cloth.