hokeyhydro
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Posts posted by hokeyhydro
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Not a long process. I stab brush in vinegar, squirrel it around, wipe it off, then dunk in denatured alcohol, swish it, brush out on scrap wood, dunk & swish again, sling excess alky off = done. Maybe one minute total. Only use acetone on bigger brushes (1" plus) if the goo is starting to kick and getting gooier. If goo is kicking on the cheapo acid brushes > in the trash.
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Yeah, $846.50 *croak* No thank you, I'll stick with my $29.95 shop vac.http://www.bobmarinosbesttools.com/ro-125-t-locct-mini/p/PM571782/
Expensive, but is incredibly dust free, it has to be seen to be believed. The dust I have left after sanding a panel with this sander can be picked up with a single pass of tack rag. Makes sanding far less of a chore, plus the dust collection keeps the sandpaper from clogging, so it lasts far longer than on my Bosch sander.
Fred
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Wow. Looks like the epoxy bow fillet cooked off. I'll let one of our experts advise on removal or whatever there since digging it out will be a PITA. If you used copper wires you can leave the leftover bits in, many folks do that rather than pull them. For the few stubborn ones that refused to let go on one of my builds I used a 3/32" punch and binged the wire down a tad so could sand without ripping up the sandpaper on the wires. If you used steel wires maybe you could punch them out. A few of my wires did that - tap down one end and surprise, the wire vacated the hole out the other side. Steel will rust, but after being buried in epoxy I don't think they will spoil the finish a rust stain down the road.
Twist is checked by "winding." I make marks with tape on the sheer equidistant from the bow/stern. Find center point on bow/stern and use a string line like a compass sweep to make marks on the tape which I place a few feet in from bow/stern. Then place two sticks across the boat at the marks - sticks should be straight, of course, and a few feet wider than the boat. Now you crouch behind the boat, maybe ten feet back, line your eyeballs up with boat centerline, and sight the sticks. If they are level with each other you're good to go. If not = EEK!
I think it was Spindrift thread recently where Graham the Designer checked in with advice on "fixing" a filleted hull that had a twist.
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Yeah, I'm working out of a "two car" garage = two very small cars. A serious downsize from my former 625 sq ft garage. I use a little shop vac - 2.5 gallon - so the rig is compact. Worth it for sure. I have the larger shop vac riggedd to hook up to the router table and table saw, and for any shop vac/tool combo I wear ear protection.
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If you aimed a leaf blower anywhere in my garage you would be instantly buried in a cloud of dust = cedar, Okoumi, and a dash of epoxy. Everything is coated with sanding dust. My go-to sander has a dust bag but it isn't very efficient. So I( got a small Shop Vac with a 4' hose, added another 8' of hose, and rigged it up to the sander.
Test time tonight: Okay, more electric cords to dodge, and it is a slightly more clumsy to handle, but I sanded, and sanded. The air was clear. The sander itself was still clean, not coated with dust as usual. I was clean! I ran my hand over the sanded surface and did pick up dust, but not much.
The new me - dragging an 1 1/4" hose attached to a Vacuum along with the DeWalt sander, well worth the annoyance of cords and hose . . .
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Well, back when I waz a teen in New Yawk a "DA" was a hoodlum hairstyle polite folks called a Duck Tail.What is DA?
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like this - except my shafts are western red cedar birdsmouth construction. weight = 32 oz.
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Cedar closet pole - add paddle blades using 4mm Okoumi marine ply. Shape ends of closet pole with a shallow dip and then epoxy blades on. Now you have a cupped blade paddle! If you feel artsy taper closet pole ends a tad with a plane. Blade shape? Whatever tickles your fancy.
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colloidal silica IS fumed silica.
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VERY PRETTY! questions: Do you have an option to reef those sleeve luff sails? Are those short belying pins in the disk at the mast bases? It appears you have two boards - bilge boards?
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I'm with Alan on brushes. Use `em, clean them, keep them going long as possible. I do a vinegar wash followed by denatured alcohol, occasionally acetone. Me so cheap I even clean off 1/2" flux brushes. Why? Hey, once they've been in the goo the bristles ain't going anywhere.
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I attach my mast hardware with ss sheet metal screws.
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Sawzall?Sure is fun to see everyone riled up. Now if only I can put a motor on the hacksaw blade...
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"Jessy" has a 1/2" bottom. That should survive a 25 no sweat, but I would wear a PFD with leg straps so it stays on when you take a dive :-)
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Me old school - metal straightedge and utility knife. For #220 wet/dry and finer I fold, crease, rip . . .
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oops brain flatulence - 1300 EDSTLooks awfully daylighty for 01:00.
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Nice array of B&B boats! Thanks to Rick (ricknriver) for putting this deal on, and thanks to Graham & Carla & Alan for their amazing demo on assembling a S&G boat - "Jessy" a new B&B design 12' planing skiff.
Pic on right, sides and bulheads wired and temp screwed into place, pic on left bottom panels wired on. Demo began at 0100 hours, Rick made introductions, Graham said a few words, and the fun began. Hull wired up @ 0140 hours, figure about 30 minutes!
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I'm on board. Two B&B Diva kayaks if you have room. I'll call later . . .
Bill
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Thanks, PAR. Your description of the capsize rescue tells me I won't be standing on the board, which is the way I imagined it to be. Yes, zero experience with centerboard boats. The catamaran I built for my daughter is rather easy to right, but then it has never turtled = wood mast helps there.
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Ouch. I would fix a 12mm twist for aesthetic reasons, but in actual operation it probably would not affect performance. It appears you own a rotary grinder/multi-tool, maybe a Fein? What I would try is lash down the stern level, then back twist the bow, even over back twist, and see if I could identify tack welds that seem stressed. Then I would cut the welds with the grinder, back twist again, cut a few more welds until the hull was loose enough to retie with wire straight, and tack weld again. Might want to wire it loosely before cutting tack welds if you decide to try that.
But Wait! Before embarking on what is a PITA repair you should contact Graham (Designer) and see what his thoughts are, and maybe one of our forumites with more experience than my 7 S&G builds will toss in an opinion.
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Wow, those are serious tack welds. If I was caught in a similar situation I would ask meself, "How bad is the twist?" Now if my lady sez "That boat doesn't look right." Big clue, I screwed up. But if it's one of those "eye of the builder" deals were you're squinting down the winding sticks and stressing out because they're a rat hair off, it might be a no call.
Can't tell from the picture but she looks fairly sweet. I have jigged up a hull by lashing it down with line and a few clamps to remove a slight twist before doing the fillet and tape drill. It worked. I did not "reverse twist" it.
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I think my CS-15 plans are #24 - yes, I'm slow. Since building a model many moons ago I have built five boats, actually two stand up paddle boards and three boats, two B&B Diva kayaks and a "one sheet" canoe. But I have collected wood for the CS and cobbled together a few parts, like the centerboard and rudder, and cut out a variety of parts.
I kind of like Captain Morgans rum. Cheaper than my fav = single malt scotch . . .
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Yeah, wax bad on a race boat bottom. The hydros I designed and built had so much air under them the bottom finish didn't matter, but I did do graphite on one for "gamesmanship" AKA pit scare points. While the boat was upside down and wet after racing I sat on the bottom, which was sort of angled down, and slid right off! Spilled my dang beer - drats. So I do wonder about attempting to stand on a slick CB . . . might be touchy.
wooden mast strengthen
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