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hokeyhydro

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Everything posted by hokeyhydro

  1. 4oz is normally used to sheath small kayaks, strip or S&G. 6oz is the standard outside/inside strip built canoe fabric. 4oz is like a thin handkerchief, so I would say 6oz for a CS-20 for increased ding resistance. The hull structure is strong enough that you do not need glass, but depending on your area of operation the ding resistance for beaching might be nice. But consider the economy of the deal as well. So many $$$ per yard of cloth plus lots of resin. Result: added $$$ and added pounds.
  2. I scored a nice deal with a little "out of the box" shopping. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/ Yep, planes, not boats, but our S&G style builds use lots of Cabosil (fumed silica) and other fillers, and Aircraft Spruce has excellent prices on fillers and resins.
  3. Good price! I got a small EZ Loader galvanized and modified the mounts for the wood/epoxy catamaran I built my daughter. Spent about $600. It has oil bath wheel bearings - time and miles will tell if they are truly less maintenance. Cat was launched once the day the massive 20" rain hit the Carolina coast. Nothing like a maiden voyage wind squall to test all the rigging
  4. Well, Mr Potts, a removable piece of lumber sounds good to me. I viewed one pic of a $200+ commercial bracket mounted with numerous beefy bolts through, what the builder claimed, a beefed up multi-layer ply transom with an aluminum nut plate on the inside. All that for a flea weight 2 1/2 HP outboard. I give that five stars for security, but really - overkill to the max. My 115 HP 350 lb+ outboard is bolted through the 1 3/4" thick transom of my runabout with four bolts. Yep, big bolts, with big nuts and fairly large washers - no nut plate. Been there since `87 save for the couple times I yanked the outboard for repairs, and the boat, which when it had the outboard jacked, has come close to 60 mph and been ridden hard and put away wet - of course. My race boats (65-70 mph) had a thinner wood transom (about 1/ 1/4"), usually balsa cored to save weight, and the engines were held on with transom clamps. Engines even stayed on when I crashed them. Whatever floats your boat works. Although my OB mount rig would be less beeffy, I do believe a safety cable/chain is in order. My race boats had steering cables (ala "Whaler" steering) so if the engine did get loose it wasn't going anywhere far. Yes, I would safety cable the engine because it is really annoying to be have the engine leap off the motor board and go for a swim. Been there done that, went diving for my engine . . .
  5. Quite true RE payload, but then you are comparing a 15'8" craft with a 20' craft - huge difference. I also like the simplicity of a S&G small craft, but love sticking all those B&C strips together. You could speed that process along with a staple gun, but I used clamps on my last stripper to avoid those neat vertical rows of black-dot staple holes.
  6. Looks good enough to me. Remove loose flaky paint, do a quick-not-perfect edge feathering of remaining paint - PAINT! All I ever used was Rustoleum paint. Have a 1983 Cox trailer which usually gets dunked in salt water that's still rolling - well, the basic frame that is. Which brings me to my alert -ALERT! Check out running gear: springs and shackle and spring shackle mounts. I had to replace near everything except the frame a few years back. Repack bearings, check tires for dry rot, tag it and drag it! In addition to the Cox I built several custom trailers to haul outboard race boats. To my knowledge all of them are still in action, going on two decades of LD hauling. However the only time they get wet is when it rains. Almost forgot - as you probably already found out, tis a rare bolt that will come loose on a rusted trailer without snapping. Plan on replacing them.
  7. Beautiful work. On the stern pic I did notice an "attachment" that appears to be a mount for an (EEK!) internal combustion device. You might be flogged or keelhauled for that
  8. Exactly! If I step outside in a tee shirt and shorts in the morning and it is warm enough for me to break a sweat from the effort of raising my coffee mug for a sip, then temp is good! Any temp less is cold and around 40 I'm in hibernation.
  9. Well, update on the "The Instead of Football Regatta"? I'm close to Oriental but had to work New Years Day, so much for football or sailing. Pictures?
  10. Yeahbut - those boats are ready to go, NO building! Where's the fun in that? :-?
  11. I built a tarp shelter for my daughter's wood/epoxy catamaran using Sced 40 PVC pipe and a variety of fittings. The length of the shelter could be adjusted by adding or subtracting roof/side sets. Mine used 1" pipe, but did not pass the snow load test. We had a few inches of really wet heavy snow here on the Carolina coast today and it sagged a bit. Larger pipe or better yet, a crossbeam similar to a ceiling joist would tie it together and beef it up. My rig has 4' walls, perfect to keep the Cat/trailer covered, not high enough to work on a boat, but like you I wanted to keep a low profile so the HOA minded neighbors wouldn't pitch a hissy seeing as I have multiple trailer boat combos here.
  12. I worked Christmas day, planes still fly, but today I was off - I thought. Cool! I planned to play with my new Dremel Multi-Max tool! Actually see if it had the grunt to neatly saw through plywood as in cut a slot for a centerboard when I get around to building a Core Sound. But alas, shortly before 6AM the rain turned to snow, and moments later my boat dreams were jangled by a ringing phone - I was needed at work. Okay, snow was starting to stick to the runway, time to do "friction tests." We have a magic box for that, it measures decel. Place box on truck floorboard, fire it up, type in runway number, and when box says she be ready, I mash the throttle, wind the truck up to a blazing 25mph, and stand on the brake. I do this 3 times on a run, and then do two more runs, left side, center, right side of runway. Then the box spits out numbers called "friction numbers." We only had 9 incoming flights scheduled today so the loose plan was gather the numbers within a half hour of an incoming flight, and take a magic box-less quick check occasionally. So on a quick check run around 10AM the truck, equipped with anti-lock brakes, is cruising down the runway at 25mph - stand on brake to see how the snow covered runway feels - and the truck does a 360 and is still sliding! Oh well. Runway closed. KEWN is down for the day. No technology needed - magic box got a rest. Back to my previously planned fiddling with the Multi-Max . . .
  13. Nice work. It appears that separating the hull may require a two-beer run while stroking a pull saw, and I assume all the bolt join holes would be drilled prior to separating - yes?
  14. white and red is a nice color scheme. My son used white/red for his raceboats, his High School colors, and even had an "Annandale Atoms" sticker on them. When the school griped about him checking out early on Friday to make a long distance race trip he dragged the principal outside and said, "Look, I'm carrying the Annandale colors into battle!" Done deal - he was turned loose. I prefer blue, but being a slacker I rarely painted my raceboats. Proven by actual test, WEST resin goes about a season before going south - sand, recoat, test it again . . . Beautiful CS-15. Maybe I'll have a full size one wet soon.
  15. Huh? Pics are small - I must have forgotten the pic post drill. The purpose of building a model was to test the hull rigidity as the build progressed. An open S&G hull is rather flexible, but as interior parts were added it stiffens up. Once the seats/flotation tanks were in place the hull became very solid. And a model build gives me modification ideas, such as minor changes to install floorboards that can be mounted seat level for a snooze deck. I Believe Ray did that with his CS-20.
  16. Back at after a break for work and holiday related activity. Centerboard and trunk installed, foredeck and seats AKA flotation chambers done. I lined up the centerboard trunk and tacked it down with CA glue, then packed a baking soda fillet around it and dropped thin CA on the baking soda. For those unfamiliar with CA glues, baking soda is the secret sauce. When the CA kicks in baking soda it will often emit a puff of smoke/vapor. Wicked cool! And it forms a rock hard fillet, and will glue ungluable stuff like hose nipples back onto windshield washer reservoirs. The shaped centerboard is made of basswoods strips, the same method I use for rudders & centerboards in full scale, except my preferred lumber is Western Red Cedar sheathed in 6oz fiberglass after shaping.
  17. Looking fine! Excellent fairing job. Although It appears that your garage is more cluttered than mine, which I did not think possible . . . :-)
  18. Yep. The main product of combustion heaters is WATER. Not to mention gases which can be lethal. Now if you could rig an outside cabin propane heater to a water supply and heat the cabin via an inside mounted radiator/fan gizmo, problem solved. Or just layer up with nice wooly sweaters and such.
  19. Scott - I would guess the Yamaha hi-thrust engines are very good. I have an old 115 Yamaha 2-stroke on an 18' Starcraft aluminum V hull (very light rig), and and a 250 Yamaha 4-stroke on a 23' Parker (2 plus tons of plastic). Both are super engines. Back when I was selling boats the WAG (Wild A-- Guess) for fuel consumption was one gallon per hour for every 10 horsepower. Fairly close. My 115 dynos out about 10% higher than the nameplate HP and the Starcraft has a 20 gallon tank. At WOT you need to be within coasting or paddling distance from a gas stop at 1 1/2 hours. Roughly 13.5 gal/hr from a 130+ HP engine. The 4-stroke is a lot less thirsty, usually reads 18-19 gal/hr from 250 HP. So you could figure 2.5 gal/hr out the outside for a 20/25 hp engine that is a 2-stroke at Wide Open Throttle. Methinks a 4-stroke would burn about 80% of that. At 5-6 mph my 250 HP burns about 2 gal/hr while loafing at near idle rpm. So you might want to figure HP and prop for mid-throttle 6 knot speed to save gas. You can always use the extra punch to charge a headwind or tide.
  20. I'm building a Cat House. Should be open for business this week. Nonono, you pervs, a Cat House for my Daughter's catamaran! Lots of PVC pipe and connectors, strap a tarp on it, and roll the cat in for the winter, which hopefully won't last long. And I will be banking bonus points with the Admiral by refinishing a yet another piece of her old family furniture. Two down, one to go. I may even have to install a few hundred square feet of laminate floor to get enough bonus points to gain permission for another boat build. Sometime in the next month or so I plan to add finishing touches to my 9' cedar strip dinghy. Yes, it wasn't totally done when it took 1st place at the Beaufort wooden boat show - lacked a small foredeck and a few other trim pieces.
  21. Tom is right - as usual. Uni tape on the chines does very little. As for coating the bottom with graphite I do believe paint will stick since the coating is 90% or more WEST resin (or whatever resin). Some report more speed (measured in micro-knots?) after coating centerboards with graphite, but I shall remain skeptical. I have coated the running surface of a stock outboard hydroplane with graphite, but that was "gamesmanship" to make my fellow racers fidgety. hee hee. And the last EC-12 R/C model racing yacht I built had graphite on the hull. Again, gamesmanship, plus it looked kind of cool. If you leave the bottom black don't flip boat upside down in the sun - heat will not be kind to the finish.
  22. I like cypress. Atlantic Veneer Mill Outlet carries "marine" grade wood and I selected cypress for the few lumber parts of the wood/epoxy S&G catamaran I built. I even used cypress to make the spars - 22' birdsmouth mast. Nice wood to work with. Goes through my Ryobi AP-10 planer well, and rips clean with a table saw. Cypress has a rep for sucking up water along the grain. I altered the fit so any end grain ended against wood rather than be open. And of course I allowed the thirsty cypress to soak up WEST resin. I plan to use cypress for future builds.
  23. Nice work! Perfect design for poking around the "skinny" water in our wet territory.
  24. Hull is 1/32" birch aircraft plywood, transom and front bulkhead 1/16" ply. Ordered that from Aircraft Spruce along with .020 stainless safety wire I used to stitch & glue. (I also need safety wire to Murphy Law proof several fittings on the beach catamaran I built for my Darling Daughter). http://www.aircraftspruce.com/ Framing is basswood. Ordered from Sig Manufacturing. http://www.sigmfg.com/ Masts birch dowels from my local Mom & Pop hardware store.
  25. Wait *rumble rumble clatter clatter* ah, there they are! Yes, I have a set of corner clamps! Methinks they will come in handy for hatch construction. The B&B plan design for hatches is very robust. I figure if you get `em right from the get-go they will never warp and leak.
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