CarolinaFlare
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Posts posted by CarolinaFlare
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5 hours ago, Oyster said:
Your teak covering boards and decks adds weight in addition to your engines in the stern.
At ~40lbs/cubic foot that could easily account for 200lbs
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Thanks Capriosca and enjoy the boat!
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Awesome build Capriosca! Do you have more pictures of the transom seating? I'm really interested in the concept of how it was constructed. Thx
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Did you take the forward seating out?
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What happened to the sarsaparilla build thread on the main forum?
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Great center console design! Will there be forward seating, in the bow, too?
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Very nice work!
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Prayers sent from the West Coast (OR).
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Thanks for the info, Miyot.
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Miyot,
Do you remember the total length & width of you strong back? And, does the transom extend past the stern end of the strong back? Trying to figure out if I can build in my garage or if I need to look for another build site. From your pictures I can tell the stem is at the tip of the nose of the strong back, maybe 6" further at most.
Cheers,
Michael
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Keeping an eye on both yours & Miyots builds as I'm hoping to build the OK24 early next year.
Keep up the great work, both of you!
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Couldn't you fill the gap with thickened epoxy?
Nice work, Fisherman38!!
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Sorry, typo....porta bracket (http://www.portaproducts.com/index.php?page=porta-bracket), similar to a jack plate. I'm torn, love the functionality (more room in the back of the boat) but prefer the traditional look of mounting on the transom. With the designed transom (one layer around the perimeter, 3-4 layers in center) could you even mount a full bracket?
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Miyot,
Are you planning on using a bracket, jack plate, or port-bracket to mount the engine?
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Hi all,
Been lurking on a couple of different sights/forums to gain info and my nerve to tackle my own build. I came across the process below on an Aussie site and performed a copy/paste. Hope the original poster won't mind, just thought it'd be helpful info to square up the bottom edge of the transom. PM me if you want the link to the other build, not looking to ruffle anyones feathers.
The reverse chine is made from a combination of epoxy, flock, glass powder, cabosil and wood flour. A balsa wood and /or cardboard dam is glued onto the hull with C.A. then the mixture is trowelled into place and shaped. After it has set off a bit a mixture of Q cell and epoxy is trowelled over the top to allow for fairing to shape. The base composite mixture is very very hard to sand so if there happens to be any high spots which really should be avoided they can be ground down with a grinder. The cardboard and balsa just sands and chissels off.
It is really not to difficult to do and does not need to be glassed over. Make sure you rough up the substrate with 40 grit before you start.
I intend to make the strakes and skeg the same way. I will put up photos.
To make the glass powder lay up some scraps of DB (Biax) fibreglass onto some spare wood let it cure. Then, up it with the belt sander (40 grit)...Collect the glass and there you have it. You will need to wear protective clothing unless you like the glass imbedded in your skin and lungs.
Miyot, exceptional work & craftsmanship!!
Ocracoke 24, Lucky#13
in B & B Yachts Forum
Posted
Awesome work Adios! What is the tongue and towing weight?