Andy B

Here are some updated photos showing the paint job with the tape off. I love the color, especially against the wood. Our painting is workmanlike—a few brush marks seen and we can do some touch ups where we didn’t mark well with the tape. But also, my 11 year old can claim she helped paint a boat! Edit to add: last night was the tedious work of installing the hardware back on. For some pieces we needed to epoxy on a block below the plywood. Hardware: Bronze herreshoff cleats by Buck Algonquin (we also have bow chocks, not installed yet), purchased from Duckworks. $150 total, way less than the ones from Spartan Marine that I was looking at. I also bought the bronze fasteners from them, with a Frearson bit, which I've never used before. It was great at driving those cleats in firmly. Aft cleats, pop up stainless, from Accon Marine. Spinlock Triple Bulls Eye from Sound Boatworks (I like the product so far, but I had to email the seller a few weeks after paying to get them to put it in the mail)

No, it was my misread, Don! I thought you meant the B&B Messabout, which I really do need to get to some year.

Tim, the space I'm working in has been wonderful. It's a client's who has let me use it while we liquidate an estate. I'll miss it when it's gone!

I see you, Don, and your sly ways to get my butt and my boat to the Messabout

First coat of the paint tonight! Kirby topsides, color is putty, low lustre.

Two jobs today. First was filling a home on each side deck. It’s about an inch diameter and deep; I suspect it was the original oar lock placement with reinforcement lumber under the plywood. It had been just covered up with a small piece of plywood screwed over it. I whittled a dowel rod to appropriate size and shoved that in there with plenty of epoxy schmeared on, then covered the top of that with epoxy. second job was a final clean up, taping, and first coat of paint. It’s Kirby’s Marine primer with conditioner added. I am super thankful to have this hangar to work in. It’s been so hazy with pollen and Canadian wildfire smoke that it’s good to paint in a place that’s rarely open to the elements.

Thanks, Paul, good information. I didn't know that the blade is skinnier on the longer oars (and mine are a bit spoon bladed). Yes, Hirilonde, definitely plan B, or maybe even plan C after the outboard. I have not used them for two reasons: (1) the few times I've sailed my boat I've had some distance to go before I could raise the sails, and (2) I'm lazy But at my normal beach launch I just need to get straight out deep enough to drop the centerboard, so my lazy nature causes me to ask why I'm goofing around with loading the outboard when I could just row for three minutes. All in good time, I've got plenty of other things to fix and upgrade before I worry about the oars!

Does anyone have specifications for oars suitable for rowing a CS-20? The blades on mine seem very skinny, though I have little experience with oars. The blade measures 28.5" from tip to where it meets the shaft, and 4.5" at the widest part. Does this seem right?

Thanks, Tim. I’ll keep that in mind for the future. The next step is paint, not epoxy, but that’s good for me to know.

Jonathan, The location is Muskegon State Park, which is on an inland lake (Muskegon) that connects via channel to a protected harbor and then Lake Michigan. This is an informal gathering--last year I just posted in a bunch of places and about 8-12 folks showed up, sailboats of various makes, models, and conditions. Most people came in Friday night and I walked around the campground to meet them. Saturday we launched and sailed. The idea was to sail to a restaurant, but the conditions were sporty enough that didn't happen in large numbers. Sunday people went home. This year I am planning to get there earlier Friday, if I can, and maybe sail Sunday morning, depending on the weather. There are still camp spots to reserve in the "Channel Campground First Loop." If you have any questions, you can email me, blodgett.andy@gmail.com.

Today we got off that pesky bolt for the cleat (had to use bolt cutters!), wiped everything off with acetone, filled deck holes with west six10 epoxy, and got a first coat of Sikkens Cetol on the rub rail.

I'm commenting to bump this up as a reminder for the September event. We've got two Core Sound boats committed, it would be great to add more! @Ted Johanson@Paul356@Reacher, we're just a quick (but expensive) ferry ride over!

Thanks, guys, for the input! I intend to use the West System Six10 kit. It comes out thick enough to fill these holes already, and the tip for the caulk gun should make it easy to fill these holes.

No wonder you're napping, Don--Looks like you fueled up for this project by eating 7 loaves of Wonder Bread. That will put you to sleep right quick!

Ok, one question for the next step. Because the prior owner used a lug rig, there's a lot of hardware taken off that won't go back on. Most of it was small, and so the screw or bolt holes are small, narrow enough that getting epoxy down will be a bit difficult. Is it okay to use a filler product to fill in these holes? Marine surfacing putty, or even bondo?