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ecgossett

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Posts posted by ecgossett

  1. I used the recommended lead in the plans on my core sound 17, it wasn't enough, so I needed a downhaul. Later I added onto the bottom and lenghened by 1". I used lead shot for that with thickened epoxy, premolded, bolted on, and used 3" tape to fair.

    1) Carefully used a hand plane on the wood part where 1.5" of glass tape would go, and cut an a layer off to make fairing easier.

    2) When casting added chopped Kevlar cloth for strength, and used Kevlar 3" tape in mold like a liner.

    3) made sure to glass over kelvar when attaching mold to bottom of board, as kevlar frizzes when you sand it.

    4) per the plans i actually had the extra room in the centerboard trunk for an extra inch.

     

    Just make sure if you weight your board, to add a bunkboard on your trailer, keeping a weighted board up adds stress on a lot of stuff.

  2. What materials does a sea-clipper take to build?

    Type of wood for stringers? I'm having a fun time sourcing wood in eastern wa, unless I drive to Edensaw by Port Townsend and pay thru the nose..


    How are you scarfing your plywood?

     

  3. I hated having to repair the skeg area, twice in my ownership. Once from a towtruck dragging it up after getting hit by drunk lady prior to 2012 everglades challenge. That Kevlar reinforced carbon fiber cover repair, only lasted 2 years, and the actual solution involved grafting in new wood, and installing a SS rub piece. Alan's solution might be the way to go, I like going fast.

     

    Moving the centerboard forward is an interesting idea. I'm going to ask Alan, about installing a second one, with rubber or something on the hull covering it to help with water flow, I would love a goal zero, combined with a staysail.

    Light air stay-sail is the best thing I ever used, in heavy coastal current off of Victoria BC, we where making .5-1kt headway with a nice rooster trail behind us. Saved us from spending the night off the San Juan Islands. Just want an option for a little extra power.

     

    So last question, bunks?? How much room in the 20 MK3 cabin is there for bunk-boards, so on cold NW nights, I can cuddle with my wife? How far under the seats do your feet go?

  4. It's been 13 years since I completed my CS17 and 5 years since I sold it. I'm now newly married, living in a new house by the Columbia River in Bridgeport, Washington. Our property includes a two-story, six-car garage/shop. My new wife is passionate about boat building and sailing, and I'm eager to embark on a new project and pull the trigger.

    I've had discussions with Alan once and a few other boat designers in this area about potential boat projects. Recently, I finished building a Storer Electric Canoe for river fun, although it doesn't sail yet. I'm particularly drawn to designs like the ECO 55 due to their efficiency in incorporating an electric engine on a multihull. Based on my experience, electric outboards are less efficient, and a 2:1 direct shaft drive is more effective. I also have a great appreciation for Core Sound boats and their ability to handle 50-knot winds and 12-foot waves. The biggest pro for me of multi-hulls  is their ability to traverse local long lakes and reservoirs at higher speeds.

    I have a few remaining questions about the Core Sound 20 MK3 because the website lacks information on newer upgrades and options:

    1. Keel: In Alan's build video, he removed the wooden keel. My only positive experience with it was on the east coast, where it helped with beach sail offs. However, I also had to replace it due to damage from trailer rollers.

    2. Ice Box Under Seat: Does it obstruct someone sleeping? How is it drained?

    3. Masts: Has anyone added a VHF antenna to the mast for emergency use with a portable radio?

    4. Pre-shaped C&C Rudder/Centerboard: Is it worth it? I noticed some posts about adding lead; is this specific to the C&C cut ones? I modified my centerboard by adding 1.5" of lead shot on the bottom, mixed with thickened epoxy, and attached it with glass and lag screws because the weight called for in the plans wasn't sufficient to lower my centerboard completely.

    5. Cabin Bunk-board: Is it comfortable for a couple to sleep on? Many have suggested the Belhaven 19 before, but it seems like it hasn't received the same level of upgrades or development as the MK3?

    6. Recessed Outboard: Is it worthwhile? Does the boat have a mechanism to fold down the bottom when the outboard is not in use, similar to a T-bird 26? This idea makes sense to me, especially if I'm using a shaft with an electric engine and replacing water ballast with lithium batteries.

    7. Centerboards on the C&C Version: Are they in the correct position? I've noticed some discussions about relocating them.

    8. Retractable Bowsprit: Goal Zero?

    9. Staysail: Does anyone still use it, or has the Goal Zero replaced it?

    10. Rowing: Is it a practical addition?

    11. What is everyone doing for navigation lights?

    12. Raspberry Chartplotter??

    13. Is anyone using wind/direction/speed gauge combo?

      Lots of questions, lots of time here at work waiting for stuff to break...

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  5. I have fixed a few of these, use a wood rasp, fair in by eye. Try to minimize the amount of epoxy mixed with a fairing filler that you are going to have to use before painting. The rasp is better than sandpaper when working straight on epoxy. Before you paint 80 grid of course

  6. Pete the one from chick is what I used on my cs17 with some scrap plywood..

     

    I try to rope ladder and a very athletic friend of mine had trouble getting back on.

     

    For driving a tour boat, I use what the tow boat guys use a strap that you put over your shoulder and you have to go into the water and they put their foot in it you stand up, and it propels them into the boat.

  7. Let me start with Interlux 2 part primer is AMAZING, tough as nails, and goes on well though stinky. Brightsides is ok, but you have to have a perfect dew point for application for best results, when I lived in Georgia we had a small window every afternoon. This was applied over epoxy that had been sanded with 80 grit and was just fine.

     

    Most of my recent experience on restoring boats and some new builds has been using Petite EzPoxy. It's pennies on the dollar compared to high end two parts, applies well over west system, system 3, B&B epoxy, and even bare or bare wood with oils (old motorboat). Buildup is high and sanding is VERY easy. The Petite reps say Interlux or Petite two part primer is fine if your worried about a tough coat on outside of boat, followed by one part Ezpoxy color of your choice..

     

    West marine one part paints are made by Petite as well, but are more limited on colors. My favorite thing with the Ezpoxy is ease of sanding, and ease of touch up due to wear and tear. Also, the one part primer/paint stays good for a long time, and if needed to make it flow better it it's gotten old add a little bit of Xylene.

     

    For boat bottoms that aren't staying in the water I'm a fan of Graphite epoxy mix, wet sanded for final coat. I didn't use to think that could make a difference, but doing blades and bottom with that added noticeable speed. I have in past talked to Interlux reps about the Teflon bottom paint, but its made to inhibit sea life a little bit, and while slippery they agreed that graphite epoxy mix is better, and more bang for your buck. 

     

    Quick notes to think about:

    1) Spend time with high power light, and some epoxy with easily sandible filler before you paint. A little filling and fairing will save you money on redoing paint coats later. Use a light colored marker to circle where you need to fill and touch up.

    2) Brushes: Jen manufacturing, poly brush, foam brush, dense foam, plastic stifner (Wal-Mart and homedepot cheap foam brush packs do not have the stiffeners).
    3) Roller: Wooster 1/8 foam roller is perfect for most paints, and tipping afterwords.
    4) Tape: 3m crape tape, or smooth. This is perfect for doing small turns, a little more pricey but worth it.
    5) Sanding: 3m roll sand paper, foam hand sander.. Even through duck works not cheapest, but hand sanding is not hard for final stuff, and will make it perfect. I will NEVER use a power sander for finishing on a personal boat again, except for initial sand on epoxy maybe.
    6) Paint colors: Marshall cove paint Bainbridge, next to Petite this is amazing paint, and you can send in a color sample and they can mix! Fire engine red, beautiful teal, you name it they can do it. A little but more pricey then Petite but worth it for final coats for custom color.

    7) Skinning: Keeping varnish/paint from skinning in can use Bloxegen. Usually for one part I just add and mix well a little Xylene.

    • Like 1
  8. 32 minutes ago, Thrillsbe said:

    Looks nice.  If you lower that forward seat ti about halfway to the waterline, it'll be a whole lot less tipsy.

     

    I'll mention it to my Mother. That said, she is 6', same height as me. Not sure how lower seat will effect ease of paddling. 

  9. From Joel: The Moccasin build was started in January 2017 (previous post), and finally launched today! Even with winds whipping up in Barr Reservoir (Colorado), the boat tracked well. Included in my post are the build and launch photos. Thanks to all who gave advice! My father loves everything about the canoe, and my mother who grew up in longer heavier river canoes running the North Platte River thinks the boat is a little "tipsy".

     

    Ed: To be clear, I helped initially start the boat and stitch it together when I was home in Colorado visiting. My father carried on with help from my mother and finished it.

     

    http://www.foggysailing.com/2017/06/moccasin-2-canoe-finished-and-launched.html

     

     

  10. Finished repairing the canoe, used glass on both sides, with thickened wood flour. The split had a one inch overlap, we laminated glass tape on both sides.

     

    Used a combination of wiring and pull ties.. With a board across the top, it takes some of the twist off the strapping. Next is gluing the butt joiners, my father cut a little 1/18" piece for the sides to fill in a very slight gap on each.

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  11. While visiting my father in Colorado, we finally started on his Moccasin 2 build with plans we've had for a couple of years.

     

    Quick synopsis of the build so far:

    Bought 4mm Okoume, with a tight grain 16'x6"x3/4" board of fir. We decided with the cost of the nicer lumber in the area, the entire boat would be mostly fir.

    Easy to loft, and cutout using a circular saw, and Japanese saw for a couple of places where the saw blade was to big. Cut two of the bow sections out together, and then made sure all four matched exactly before going any further. Had to flip the boat twice, because we should have started on the outside for initial seams.

     

    For flipping ran cross sections with small clamps securing and then a long board, with a screw into each cross section board.

     

    Cracked a forward hull panel, while wiring up bow stem. That right now is epoxied, and sandwiched between a layer of glass tape on each side.

     

    Questions?

     

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  12. After using my rowing pins as cleats, and holding the sheet for 5 hours (R2AK 2015) I swore I would find a better way.

     

    I had purchased a Racelite Block/Cleat combination http://www.duckworksbbs.com/hardware/blocks/d100/index.htm  of which I could never find a good use.. Initially I used a softshackle, and attached the block to the loop on the mizzen downhaul hook. This worked great until I lost the softshackle. Now I use a Wal-mart 100lb rated aluminum carabiner, and it is faster and works better then I could have ever imagined. Derigging and rolling everything into my canvas grocery store bag I put the staysail in is a snap.

     

    For tacking I drop the sail, untie the sheet from sail, re-position around the mast, retie. Aft of main mast 1 foot, I have an eye hook on each side. With a quick release pin, it's easy to move the line back and forth. For re-hoisting, I have a figure eight in the halyard 12" above the sail head (thanks Graham for that advice).

     

    All I can say is that easily removable cleat system with a block is the best advice I can give.

  13. Thanks Chuck & Paul..

     

    Running at beginning our top speed of 8.5 knots was reefed. In retrospect we should have unreefed as soon as we started running, and moved my father to back with me for more speed. We could have cut two hours off our race time. We where reefed because of strong wind and beginning, and variable stuff from helicopter down-wash going past.

     

    Later in the light wind switching around it sucked for an hour or so. We had enough wind to move at knot and half, and where paddling to add another knot of speed in middle of race. 

     

    Coming back in the 10-12 foot waves with 32 knots behind us really sucked. As Randy pointed out, it's a testament to the boat design that we survived without capsizing, or major problems. At the time and for several hours afterwords I did not feel like that after four hours in that weather. I believe my first thought upon getting back was that I should sell the boat to who ever offered me anything. It was exhausting running with big waves 3 seconds apart, and every 7 seconds having a bigger wave coming at an off angle to the other waves. I wasn't counting seconds, but it turns out my father was logging it, and watching his watch.

     

    My mother crossing on the Blackball ferry which passed us, heard wave heights from the Captain.

     

    For me the hardest part of boat ownership is kids who want more boat. My daughters loved riding in Randy's Belhaven 19 the other day, especially the cabin, and the ability to pop up through forward hatch. Also, I didn't realize how much I missed having a cabin.

     

    For shooting video, the worst part is editing. I took 30 minutes of decent video, and my goal was including photos for under 5 minutes of video time. There was lots of beautiful long shots of just sailing, and looking around, but most people don't want to sit and just watch that. Maybe I should post those as other videos. Also, giving credit to those who supported you or gave expensive knives as promos.

  14. Back in Us.

    After helicopter almost capsized us at start line (read the news), we started race reefed. Maybe running we should have unreefed, but we hit 9knots reefs and dug bow in a couple of times.

    Went west before shipping lane convergence zone we where told to avoid. About the time we started north, wind died for a couple hours.. a card game out two later, we got some wind and made it to Victoria.

    Coming back today was rough, accidently cursed on radio while reporting position to vessel traffic, because it has gotten so rough at 32 knots of wind, we wanted to update our location. Mid broadcast, got slammed between waves, and sails kissed other wave with water coming over side..

    We stayed pretty dry until motoring into the wind tunnel in the protected Anchorage at port Angeles. Water and spray constantly over bow and dripping.

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  15. Back in Us.

    After helicopter almost capsized us at start line (read the news), we started race reefed. Maybe running we should have unreefed, but we hit 9knots reefs and dug bow in a couple of times.

    Went west before shipping lane convergence zone we where told to avoid. About the time we started north, wind died for a couple hours.. a card game out two later, we got some wind and made it to Victoria.

    Coming back today was rough, accidently cursed on radio while reporting position to vessel traffic, because it has gotten so rough at 32 knots of wind, we wanted to update our location. Mid broadcast, got slammed between waves, and sails kissed other wave with water coming over side..

    We stayed pretty dry until motoring into the wind tunnel in the protected Anchorage at port Angeles. Water and spray constantly over bow and dripping.

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