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J. Cote

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Everything posted by J. Cote

  1. Oh my gosh, Graham! I am so glad I am a coward (and didn't just dive into the gunwales) and so glad you took time to post this explanation. This makes much more sense to me. I kept looking at that mast collar as a potential anchor, but didn't think it went on the boat just yet per the plans. The forward bulkhead deck beam I would have missed completely. It shows up in one side view in the plans (see photo), and is not in the parts list at all. To make sure I understand the front view of the beam, I made a paper template (see photo). Is this correct? I would have attached this beam to the bulkhead before attaching the bulkhead to the boat. But now is better than not at all. So now I have a plan....... 1) Attach beam to bulkhead 2) Attach mast collar 3) Rip 2 lamination strips per side and attach to boat on both sides equally (either glued or dry) for balanced stresses. Thank you!
  2. Thanks Joe, I made my scarfing jig for my table saw yesterday. I bought 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 12' poplar boards for the gunwales. After reading Graham's post, I understand what I need to do now. So great to hear from you!
  3. So each strip was a 1/4" thick? I bet it looks great. That would also make the bend around the bow less stressed. One problem with the S12, is that my gunwales have to be 13' long, I have to scarf. I suppose I could scarf each strip.... How did you do mate up the gunwales at the bow? Did you cut the right side gunwale bow to a point on the boat center line and cut each strip on the left side to match up with the right side point?
  4. OK, now I'm scared. ? I've been researching the best way to install the gunwales. I want to avoid what PadrePoint experienced with his deviated septum (tearing at the bow, love his description). 1) on the plans, it says: boat is wired, longitudinal bulkheads in place, transom on (all wired), then gunwales on. 2) on the Spindrift 12 General Order of Construction Guide, it says: Make an Install Breasthook, Knees and Gunwales. But there is no Breasthook shown in the plans or parts list. My temptation is to do the following: 1) make a small fillet weld in the bow (Justin C's picture). 2) Shape the Gunwale Bow point & wire the two together at the bow (PadrePoint's inwales picture). 3) Dry fit & clamp it to the boat starting from the bow & working toward the stern. 4) Let it sit for a few days for the gunwales to relax & take memory. Then glue it up. Any suggestions on this process? Photos: Justin C's small fillet weld, PadrePoint's wired inwales & my bow & possible fillet weld locations, .
  5. I opted for the Beckson because it had O-rings. Seadog does not, but suggests putting Vaseline in the threads. The lasarette is getting an 8" off to one side of the mast.
  6. Thanks Graham. If you remember, Randy & I capsized his Spindrift 12 at the mess-a-bout. We were comical in our efforts to get back in the boat. Learned a lot of lessons that day. ? I didn't realize Joe Anderson (above) is the same Joe at the mess-a-bout. I have reviewed his videos before. I will review them again before I go practice on mine the first time. Thank you for all of your suggestions above. I have them all written down in my notes. Jan
  7. Thank you Alan. I see the Becksons have an O-ring, the Seadog does not - it recommends Vaseline in the threads. Hence the price difference.
  8. Thank you for your input Hirilonde. A top hatch similar to this? https://www.wholesalemarine.com/tempress-slam-hatch-white/
  9. Before I install the longitudinal bulkheads, I need to decide if I want access to the Bays. Couple of questions for the "been there, done that" crowd: 1) What types of things do you find want to store away on the boat & keep dry or not lose when I flip the boat sailing? (Hats, flip-flops, rope, sunblock, lunch, life vests, cushion....?) 2) Which bays are worth planning access for? (I'm thinking the aft bays & the bow.....?) 3) What deck plates do you recommend? & what sizes? (I'm thinking...bigger is better for access...?) The forward bulkhead access can wait. It is in place and playing too important of a role right now to remove to make a hole. I can decide this one at the end of the build. The longitudinal bulkheads are still loose. Looks like it could handle a 9" (outer rim) diameter deck plate. I would order these now & cut the holes now while it's loose. See photo for reference. Any input?
  10. Thank you, I am really happy how my dovetail joint came out.
  11. Alan, the Spindrift plans don't mention installing the anti-crack block, but the CS video & CS17 plans above do. Does the Spindrift need the blocks or do a few wires installed aft of the glass tape suffice?
  12. Thanks Alan, the the process & graphics shown on the Core Sound 17 plan page is perfect! I can easily work this with my Spindrift dimensions.
  13. Is there a video showing the procedure for the front 8" of bow seam attachment? The "Core Sound 15 Hull Assembly Part 1" video just shows it after it's done. Do I do the finger scarf the same way as illustrated for scarfing the hull panels? (only doing them both at the same time to make sure they are exact mirror image) Do I let the finger scarf dry, sand it, and THEN apply the 8" fiberglass tape with in the same fashion you as you show for the bay area in 'Core Sound 15 Build Part 4' video? Thanks,
  14. Excellent warning about the risk of cracking the wood with screws if it's tapered in advance. I am overthinking it, and enjoying every minute of it. ? Thanks Alan.
  15. Thank you Alan, confidence is restored. I am tempted to taper the stringer before gluing it down. In fact, I thought maybe I should taper the outboard surface then glue it down. When the boat is folded, the stresses would be closer to zero, and my 1/4" round over is preserved till it disappears to the taper ...... am I overthinking this?
  16. My question is about the bevels & tapers on the side stringers (see attached plan page): 1) The top of the page calls for a 12" bevel at the forward end. But it looks to me like a taper..... 12" long, material taken from the outboard surface of the stringer. If that is correct, how much do I taper to? (i.e. dimension between the red arrows I marked on the page)? 2) The 10 deg graduated to 17 deg bevel going forward makes sense, so the stringer's top surface is horizontal when it butterflies. (material is taken from the outboard surface of the stringer). 3) The 36" taper at the forward end makes sense so the stringer can flex to fit the boat curve. This looks like the material is taken from the inboard surface of the stringer. If I am correct above, in what order should I do all this shaping? I did the 10 deg. Next I was going to do the graduation to 17 deg. Then the 12" taper (bevel). Then the 36" taper to zero at the front. Is this OK?
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