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Posts posted by lattenkracher
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this aspect also worries me
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Question: Has anyone ever tried to permanently fill the bow and stern segments with styrofoam before skinning ? Are there any experiences or opinions?
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Hi Frank, Adminstrator of a web forum is time-consuming and holds stress moments, so I just say here: Thank you very much for your work!
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Hi, the zero point ist the end ot the stern, measure everthing from there
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Hello Craig,
maybe this Thread can answer your Questions:
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Very nice Build!
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Hi Bignose,
they should actually be identical.
Most people mount the plywood coaming so that the two bottom rings pinch the skin. So the discrepancy should probably be barely noticeable afterwards as long as you get the screws through all the rings cleanly.
The upper ring should always stand so much over the middle one that your spraydeck has a good grip all around.
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Hi Bignose
"This bracket is to be mounted on the top of the Frame locatet at 8`2". It´s purpose ist to support the underside of the Coming when you push donw on it."
This Explanaition and some additional Information is noted on the Vardo Plans, sheet 2.
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Hi, this is an 1:20 Model of an Vardo with extra inserts for Hatches.
You can see the final full scale Boat in this Post:
the seam line is done asymetrical on the edge of the Gunwale
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Hi Garrett,
what kind of Fabric is this ?
I glue Polyester Fabric with "Sabacontact 70t". I have heard glueing Nylon is not as easy.
I have glued a long cut. It is like new, but i have glued it from inside, where no Coating is on the surface of my fabric.
I think you have to make some tests.
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very Nice!
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very Nice Build!
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HI Sailormon,
here you can see my results by using an coated polyester and an synthetic resin varnish:
https://messing-about.com/forums/topic/11660-vardo-launch-in-bavaria/?tab=comments#comment-107993
+ durable glueing (stern / bow), or after scratches
+ hot shrinkable
+ not hygroscopic
* shiny finish, people do not realize it is an SoF
-relatively heavy, applyed many layers of resin
- i think it could be more durable (e.g. scratches)
so i decidet to try next time an uncoatet ballistic nylon and applying an urethan coating - we will see,
i am very interestd to hear (and see) about your experiences.
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Great job!
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Very Nice! Always liked the beauty of the pure frame!
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I found another photo from summer. I hope it can clarify how I solved the problem: Pad 1 is glued to the underside of the coaming, Pad 2 to the side of the beam. You can find the right position by rowing in the boat and looking where your knees touch the respective parts.
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HI HBREW,
i have had glued microfoam pieces (3/4" thickness) on the stringer and on the coaming where they have contact with the knees: That works pretty good for me and gives me a tight and comfortable sitting position.
P.S. I can take some Photos if you like to see
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for an longer tour, i have alwyas an "Manual Kayak Bilge Pump" with me ..
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Yes you are right, i have lashed them on top of bracket 8.2, (drilled a hole in the upper center of the bracket).
I didnt use the addition support brackets.
For the visual appearance, i think its very impotant to make those deck beams not to short. I saw some kayak where the deck beam ends bevor it leaves contact with the skin and then you get (IMHO) ugly bumps into the skin.
I think the bow of an laminatet beam/bracket can vary widely, so you have to decide from time to time if you want to go over or under that .
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Hi John,
i think a picture could help to understand your Problem.
Probably a wedge could be the solution ?
I have used some wedges to correct the position of the coming after covering.
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Hi
i have tried out different types auf senew, finaly this one was good:
https://www.lederwerkzeugladen-chiemgau.de/1001-00-Wachsgarn-Kunstsehne-braun-teilbar
I think i have used two or three reels.
The paint i have used was "Wilckens Boot & Yachlack" but it is no as durable as i hoped.
I think i try finding some Ureatan/Coelan Coating next time.
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Curlew launch, Ballarat Australia.
in Kudzu Craft Launches
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very nice build!