Mark Rendelman hull 24

Congrats on your wedding ?? After 51 years myself all I can say is don’t! Go to sleep mad and happy wife happy life that’s all. And iam glad to see that the shake and bake worked mark

Well it’s done the bottom and lower sides are as far as iam going Togo. Also the roller tray awaits the trailer. The next step is let the paint cure for a couple more days before I put any pressure on the hull when I turn it over and continue the build. I just finished in time the weather finally turned and we have had some freezeing weather at night. mark

That’s good just don’t rush it you might have to do it for two days or so mark

Set up a tarp over the entire boat and put a small heater under it and heat it for a day

WOW! that’s a lot of information to digest but iam hungry for information (pardon the pun) on the trailer thing. I did buy a trailer secondhand made for a power boat, this trailer only has bunk rails my roller tray will be a nice addition to the ease getting the boat off/on the trailer. I haven’t spent much time looking at the trailer till now though I would build the boat first and worry about the trailer last. I probably will strip the trailer down and fit everything to my cs 20mk3 I will go out and look more closely at the trailer today and see if it is the right candidate for a make over. mark

Sounds like a plan mark

Steve this is something I need to work out, I to will probably be in fresh water most of the time their are so many nice lakes in this country and on my other trailer I put side rollers at the stern to guide her in the trailer and I don’t mind getting my feet wet.

After watching the post from Pete I went out on a parts run to get the stuff to make the roller tray here in Spokane they make EZ load boat trailers so I went by the service center to find out about rollers and to my surprise they had a barrel full of these rollers and at 2.50 each I could not pass them up they aren’t v’s so I’ll have to come up with a way to center the boat on the tray later when I go to mount it on my trailer. I think the bow hook will handle the front I just need to center the stern. The tray will be disassembled the edges will be rounded over and a bottom board will be added then all epoxied. mark

In the construction of my mk3 keel I used a keel strip of laminated mahogany 3/4 wide with a 3/4 oval brass cap purchased from on line metals not to bad of a price if you keep the length short I needed 18’ so I ordered 3lengths 6’ long.

Pete! Thanks for the response that link is just what I am looking for to construct my own tray it will be very useful. mark

Hello out their ! now that my keel is finished I want to build a roller tray and I know that someone has already built one I would like to know the post that it was on or contact the author mark

Guy, thank you I must constantly remind myself that it’s a boat not a fine piece of furniture or I’ll never be satisfied with the outcome. The mk3 kit is a great kit mark

Guy, this was a mod that Alan made to his mk3 so I just ordered the kit with this mod and I really like it because I will be using. A boomkin and this gives me a clean stearn

Hello Guy yes it is Alan Stewart has done his boat the same way

Now That I know how to add to thread all future posts will be here. Not much going on in the boat shop but I did manage to paint the bottom and install the keel strip.painting the side will be next, but before I do I must obtain a better paint respirator spraying the epoxy is as nasty as you can get. Also will be working on building a keel roller tray for the trailer.

J won’t make it this year due to COVID-19 I was going to go before this all hit hopefully next year I make it with my boat mark

Build of hull #24 i have been working on getting paint on the hull this past weeks filled the glass with high fill epoxy primer block sanded then gave two coats of top side primer block sanded again, by the way do not use 80 grit paper it’s too course and the marks will come thru the color coat. At least it did on my paint. Shot 3 coats of color on the bottom after this cures I do the same on the other half of the hull. mark

This repair was definitely ugly to say the least but fortunately it is I think in a low stress area and the repair should do nicely only time will tell.

Steve this is just one of the dumb things I did in the build, using vacuum bagging at this part of the hull was not an option. Due to to contour I saw no other way to fix it. I will post a picture of my earliest disasters when the boat was just being wired together I forgot how far the back of the boat overhung the cradle put my foot thru the hull and ripped the plywood about 2’ right along the chine and I did what you did But I sandwiched it between two boards screwed together laid cloth on the inside and with the hull glassed it will be stronger than the wood itself

Justin Long long time ago in a galaxy far far away I bought a starter kit from a company called CST and I think they are located in Tehachapi California but you can make up your own, to stick the bag down you can use the butyl tape used for bedding hardware the bag was just a piece of painters drop cloth the white looking stuff is bleeder cloth this allows even draw down of the bag you can use thin quilt batting and the hose is 1/4” vacuum hose you also need to put down peel ply you can use taffeta the stuff I had is Teflon coated and of course you need a vacuum pump the one I used came with the kit and it’s like a fish air pump in reverse But an air conditioning vacuum pump is best if you are going to bigger bags that might need two or more ports. I hope this is what you need mark

Build of hull #24 Todd i didn’t screw the blocks down I used clear packing tape along side the keel on the hull to give a nonporis surface then on top of that I put a piece of double backed carpet tape, then I put down the blocks so that they just buttered to the keel, the blocks are installed on both sides of the keel to keep it aligned and in place. As for the center board pocket this was one of the scariest parts I found the thru the hull tabs that aligned the center board trunk and used them as a guide to know where to make my cut, drawing a line along the tabs and adding 1/4” will give you the net distance of the inside panel after that I added about 3/4” to put me somewhat in the middle of the opening for me and I used a Japanese pull saw to cut the opening, afterwards I used a trim router I made a base out of a scrap ply it was as wide as the router base and about 10” long I glued a block to the base. After putting a small level on the base to find level I cut the block that tall, oo using a 3/8” bearing round over bit to make the radius TAKE NOTE this only works wit the long edges the ends were shaped by hand

Dave you probably can’t see them in the photos due to the shot bags but I did secure wooden blocks to the hull to keep the keel in proper alignment while glueing up. mark

Thank you all for the fine remarks and iam glad that it has inspired you to continue you projects mark

Building of hull #24 Well I have been busy in the shop the last few days it finally cooled down enough for me to work in my shop I glassed the bottom and started to do the fill coat and thought that I had better install the keel first , so I glued down the keel today and will wait for that to cure a day or two before putting on the filets. The keel will be topped of with 3/4x3/16 oval brass as a keel strip.

Thank you for the reply I don’t think the weight will be of concern since this a pleasure build. As far as the cost given the cost of materials And shipping the brass was a bargain mark