Murray
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Posts posted by Murray
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On 11/27/2023 at 12:35 PM, Don Silsbe said:
Get this. The boat has a plastic hatch cover to the lazarette, made by Bowmar.
Since it is old, the gaskets needs replacing. There is a gasket both on the lid and the frame. I like that it has a double seal. I contacted Bowmar. Yes, they sell replacement gaskets. They “only” cost $10/foot, and there’s a $100 minimim, and there will be a $7.50 handling fee PLUS shipping! I need about 15 feet. I know that this material costs them $.25/foot to manufacture. (Probably less, the greedy so and so’s.) I will not be buying this gasket material from them, but going to Lowe’s to search for a substitute.
Actually, I don’t like the hatch. Since this boat has a non-pivoting tiller, access to the lazarette is somewhat restricted.
I’d like to eventually close this area up, and have a hatch on the vertical surface, like Todd Stein has. 
That will need to wait until next fall, when I strip off all this old paint. Comments?
Certainly the original design hatches are far more effective than this Bowman item. I suspect it was a post build mod - probably they either wanted to keep a watertight tank for bouyancy or were at the 'I can't be bothered' stage when applying decks. A question tho Don - how do you find the duckboards forward? Not seen this before...
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On 11/27/2023 at 7:34 AM, Designer said:
Don,
The missing hatch sides and back were in the original drawings. You definitely have a builder modification. The good news is that what is built looks like it is to plan and shouldn't require any alteration to bring it up to spec. I would add some sides and modify the back to clear all of those nuts. Then put a straight edge on the deck across the hatch to measure the gap above the coamings for the gasket and adjust if necessary.
I think that you would be better off with a mizzen staysail. It will give you the most bang for the buck. It is mostly in the cockpit and easier to take down if conditions suddenly get ugly.
Also keeps the balance of sail pressure over the centre of lateral resistance. A jib tends to make the helm go light to negative...
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And here we are, August '24, and I haven't done a single thing on the boat... sometimes you need a break just to smell the wind. I think mines about to come to an end...
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no picture Dave?
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Thanks for the kind comments guys, and Dave for the tip on clamps - sometimes you feel as though you are getting somewhere - then you get confused again. Ah well - always tomorrow...
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On 11/14/2023 at 5:29 PM, Kennneee said:
You boat looks beautiful Murray! Keep up the fine work.
cheers Ken
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Coamings cut roughly and steamed into place; 2 pieces of Jarrah cut into 3mm strips. I'll epoxy them together with filler from the sawdust; it's pretty fine so should work.
But the next real step is the rub rails at the bottom of the top strake. I've cut the strips out but still not sure how to hold them in place while the epoxy goes off. Brad pins will stop them sliding up or down, but will not hold them close the plank. While I ponder that I'll carry on with getting the deck trimmings ready to glue on. So rubrails, then decks, coamings, and gunwales, followed by deck trim. Then the wood is basically all in place.
Sanding and painting the interior, varnishing the timbers and - well - getting close!
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I've been meaning to show the stem since I fixed some time back. I cut a batten the width of the finished stem, drilled many small holes along the centreline, then wrapped it in plastic. Then I marked out the centre line of the stem of the boat, and the bits that would extend past the batten and sanded those back. Then after nailing with little pins, the batten bent to the shape of a straight stem. Backfilling with epoxy and fillings between the batten and the hull was relatively simple. Removing the batten and the stem looked like the photo below. A bit of cleaning up and now it looks like the second photo.
haven't been able to work on the boat for some weeks but now the sails are here, and the trailer ready to collect, I better get back to it...
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Carlins sorted, a little shaping left to do on the transom top to blend all the differing angles in, next on the list was Gunwales. I had thought I'd scarf two bits of Jarrah together, and have a single piece I'd bend to the inhales. Jarrah is so short grained though, it wasn't long until I heard the unmistakable sound of a single piece of wood becoming two bits of wood again. So I resorted to laminating strips together. Makes a glue-up and positioning of 12 pieces (???) against the boat a lot more complicated, and the 3mm bite the tablesaw blade takes meant I was not sure I'd have enough wood to get it done. I did, but that was all that was left over.
Oh - a man can clearly never have enough clamps... I've taken the gunwales off to sand clean, hope to complete that tomorrow, then the decks can go on.... Still a long list but we are getting there.
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On 8/25/2023 at 11:54 PM, gray duck said:
Carlins look great! I'm confused with your previous post with what appears to be a drain going from the mast (or mast step maybe) through the hull. ??? Never seen this before. My $0.02: When people say a mast step needs to be drained...
As Dave ( @Hirilonde ) says, the plans call for it to go through the hull, after thinking on it, I thought why not?
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Time to stop procrastinating.... Carlin in.
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But necessary. I found a piece of rubber tube in the garage, no idea where it came from but after wrapping cloth and resin around it, it makes a good fibreglass tube to drain the mast step outside the hull. It was a good little project that has allowed me to avoid doing the carlins. I can't quite see how to get these things set up - with 15 degrees of 'backrest' - when you pull them against the hull, they twist and rise up at the ends. what else can I do next to avoid this...
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This really feels wrong....
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16 hours ago, Steve W said:
....actually still quite a list....
I have a friend who jokingly says "80 percent done with 80 percent to go". I use it myself now. Even when you are done the tweaking never ends. Looks great though!
I’ll use that quote - very apt!
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The resin on the transom yielded to the gentle persuasion of 80 grit, but it was astonishingly hard. Still it sanded off and now with some stain in place it will probably look OK when varnished. I guess also with the white paint going over onto the edge of the planks, a rudder and other things going on to distract the eye from small blemishes, it will look fine.
Suddenly I am at the point where the list of tasks is becoming manageable; Carlin supports tomorrow, then carlins can go in, hatch covers, decks, then sanding for a few weeks... Then tipped over for final coats of hull paint, gunwales, rubbing strips, a rebuild of the rudder stock, oh then.... actually still quite a list...
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18 hours ago, Hirilonde said:
@Murray I am trying to remember what I meant by foot steps, and I can't. Are you referring to something to make stepping the main mast easier? I'm getting old.
...Nah - still just a boy!
I should have asked at the time I saw the post, but I think it was in reference to sitting on the sidedeck, and needing some foot strap arrangement to prevent falling over the side?
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On 7/17/2023 at 1:59 AM, Hirilonde said:
I bet it is to keep the step from moving while the opoxy cures, there is no way to clamp it.
You are so right; one look at my stem issues prove that point. You mentioned somewhere Dave, that you put footsteps in - where did you locate them?
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On 7/13/2023 at 6:16 AM, Don Silsbe said:
Graham once told me that adding screws to an epoxy joint actually weakened it. I wish I had quizzed him further on that.
That's interesting. In the plans he specifies screwing the mast steps as well as gluing. Maybe the screws add sheering strength. I wonder maybe differing coefficients of expansion between the screws and the epoxy could see a joint working over time?
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On 2/8/2022 at 7:01 AM, Designer said:
I remember my first employer telling me "the art of a craftsman is being able to disguise or work around your screw-ups.
I have been where you are more times than I want to remember.
I have not seen your problem but my instinct would be to trim some wood off one side and make it up on the other side with epoxy. A little adjustment with forward gunwales ends might be necessary. There may be some tweaking of paint edges.
While you may not be able to eliminate the visual effect completely, reducing it will make invisible to most folk.
Thanks for this comment Graham @Designer- that was the pathway to solve the problem.
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On 7/5/2023 at 11:42 PM, Don Silsbe said:
I think what Hirilonde is saying is that the epoxy bond will provide more than enough strength for the loads. I can see the benefit of them for precisely the step. But after the glue has cured, they serve no purpose, other than an entry point for water. Just be sure to include a drain hole, so water doesn’t accumulate in it.
Well - belt and braces. I don't know the loads on the mast steps, but I'd guess as shock loads - approx plenty. So making sure for sure, I'd start with hoping the epoxy bond is good. Then the four screws in the step are more good. Then the four screws under the bearing give even more mechanical security - so more good. If redundant, then it's just four screws.
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I had decided to use a resin bearing in the mast step to allow easy mast rotation. As I was about the pour the resin I pondered that since the mast step can be subjected to significant and sometimes shock loads, I might bury 4 screws into the keel plate under the bearing. With these, the four screws in the mast step itself, and then gluing, filleting and taping the maststep to the centre case at the side and the the keel plate underneath, well it hopefully will stand the loads...
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Checking the masts are plumb athwartship. I'd say that's as close as I am going to get.
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On 6/15/2023 at 1:39 PM, Kennneee said:
Murray- Lot’s of room for angst and creativity. She will be beautiful. I went round and round on what I wanted to do with my transom. Found a scrap piece of WRC and resawed it into 1/4” book matched panels and glued it on the existing transom. I like the result.
WRC - assume that is Red Cedar Ken? Certainly a great result. I'll have to look up book matched panels to see how this is done. Meantime I'm thinking of going cheap and painting the transom white, running just a vertical strip of maybe Jarrah as pretend runner support, maybe a cap on the transom in Jarrah as well so it hopefully ties together. There will still be paint/timber contrast. Sanding back the resin on the transom brings the fear of going through the outer skin of ply, and as noted, timber stains I've tried (so far) are not convincing.
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On 6/10/2023 at 9:09 PM, Hirilonde said:
Are you doiing the sheer strake bright?
The end does come, just not as quickly as we may like. Keep paying attention to the details.There is a lot of the Devil in the details... Sheer strake will be inky blue, with Jarrah gunwale and bump strip along the bottom of the sheer strake. Too much filler on that strake to go bright. Now my mate across the road says the deck should be bright (was planning to that) but it needs to be dark - like a Mahogany ply. I've already cut the deck panels out of current ply stocks, so it would be wasting ply, but I've tried staining the current ply a dark colour too and it's not a convincing result. Then there is the issue of the transom being a bit 'yellow' in colour but with three coat of resin on it - do I just ignore it or put another false transom over the top? Or paint it white? Or....
Core Sound 17 #159 Refurbishment
in B & B Yachts Forum
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Did you go ahead with the Tabernacle Dave?