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Reacher

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Posts posted by Reacher

  1. 20 hours ago, Reacher said:

    A boat typically has a thru-bulkhead electric connection to allow plug in to a 110v line. The 110v then goes inside the boat to a battery charger which is connected to the battery.

    Hirilonde replied: "That would be extremely dangerous.   Only a proper shore power system should be hard wired in a boat for AC, including a reverse polarity switch."

     

    I don't think I described anything dangerous. Typically a boat will have an electrical connection to the outside. The shore power cord is plugged into the connection and that is how electricity is brought into the boat. 

     

    However, I did describe a system that is more complex than Acreew needs. I was thinking the topic was a CS17-3. Sorry. A USB port in a car is protected with a 5 amp fuse. This could be done in the boat with a simple fuse block or an in line fuse. I agree that easiest charging on land is to use a portable charger on an extension cord.

     

     

  2. A boat typically has a thru-bulkhead electric connection to allow plug in to a 110v line. The 110v then goes inside the boat to a battery charger which is connected to the battery. The battery is then connected to a fuse/switch panel, such as Blue Seas makes. For a CS17 this panel might have six fused switches for masthead light, nav lights, radio, charging outlets, cabin lights, gps. You then run wires from the panel to your outlets, etc. Whenever you want to use something you flip the appropriate switch.

     

    To keep it simple you might omit the thru-bulkhead and just lead an extension cord in to the cabin to plug in the battery charger.

  3. Paul, thanks for the good write up on the race and describing how it works. It was great to sail along side another Core Sound.

     

    I don't know how the committee arrived at the PHRF rating. I won't complain because it was fair to generous to me, but I think the CS 17 was rated a little high in comparison and deserved a better standing. I don't think Paul gained anything by being one of a few boats to go the other way around Green Island, but it was a good strategy. If there was a big wind shift it could have paid big dividends over the rest of the fleet.

     

    It was too bad that the wind settled in the second half of the race. After 8 miles of tacking and sailing close hauled I was looking for some good reaching to make up time. As it was, the racing ended for me at the windward mark because my position didn't change. I passed one boat, and one passed me, a North American 40.

     

    I was pleased about the pointing ability. Paul took the lead off the start and I could see he was making good progress upwind. I tried to match his technique. My tracker showed us tacking through about 95 degrees.

     

    And, even though the wind didn't allow us to demonstrate the reaching strength of Core Sound boats, I was happy that in light wind the boats still out performed their length and held off the longer keels.

     

    It was a blast, and, as the only centerboarders in the race, we felt that we represented our class well. A 15 mile race on the waters of Green Bay is a good test.

  4. Tfrei,

    What races are you in? Do you have a rating? What boats do you compete against?

     

    Re tacking on light air, all I can add is to keep your weight to leeward prior to the tack, then move across to the "new" leeward side as soon as you start the tack. Rock the boat over as you tack.

     

    Agree with Designer about starting the tack smoothly, but then push the tiller over all the way. Make sure to lift the tiller to clear the combing if necessary so the swing isn't blocked.

     

    I'm still not sure how much to heel the boat in light air to make it point. I've heeled enough to start bringing the centerboard out of the water. It feels right, but I'm not convinced it helps. I would like to hear comments from others.

     

    On August 11 I hope to race a bunch of keel boats. 

  5. My previous post was 85% tongue in cheek. It is a valuable thread and kudos to the organizers for hosting the event. I learned to sail on a 12' tech dinghy with one sail. It resisted capsizing unless you assisted it, but then it turtled. Righting the boat wasn't a problem.

     

    My interest in capsizing a CS 20 is to know how far it can go under real sailing conditions before it goes over. And I'd like to know how fast it will turtle and how it recovers from that.

     

    In the meantime I will look for ways to better secure all the junk aboard.

  6. This is the worst thread ever. Before, when I sailed my CS 20 I was only concerned about keeping the mainsheet at hand. I believed Designer's assurance that releasing the main would prevent a capsize. Why prepare for a capsize when it won't happen?

     

    Yesterday when I went sailing I was looking at all the loosely stored junk on board the would go overboard.

     

    I didn't capsize, but I was afraid that the topic was so much on my mind that it would be a self fulfilling event.

  7. Joe, the battens that came with my CS 20 sails were 5/8 inch. I believe that is a common size, also used on your boat. When I inquired about a new batten BandB said they have gone to 1 inch on CS20.3. the batten pockets are large enough for at least 1.25 inch battens. 

     

    I don't know enough about battens to advise you on size. Maybe a change to 1 inch would help. I am playing around with wood battens of different dimensions. Anyway, Sailrite has batten end caps of different shapes that might help your battens stay in place.

  8. 21 hours ago, Designer said:

     

    To make sure that I do not lose my leech battens I sew them in with a stitch across pocket opening at the leech. To remove the batten I snip the stitch and out they come. I use a sail makers needle with waxed sail makers thread.

     

    This would have saved my batten. It was a full length, 80" batten that was velcroed into the pocket. In the middle of a 25 mile long windy, wavy broad reach I noticed the batten protruding 6 inches from the leach. It seemed stable, but I lost it on the takedown.

     

    A hint I got re wood battens is to wrap them in filament strapping tape. Some extra strength and you can get the pieces out if they break.

  9. I need to replace a batten. The original was 5/8" untapered fiberglass. I can replace with same, but am curious is anyone has gone to tapered wood battens. The pocket will take a 7/8 batten, maybe 1".

  10. A good looking dodger and coaming. With respect to a tie down strap I suggest you use an adjustable nylon strap or cord directly from the aft bow to the cockpit coaming. The aft bow needs quite a bit of tension to keep the top of the dodger taut enough to shed water. Pulling down on the side curtain itself doesn't do the trick in my experience. 

  11. The more I sail my CS 20 the more I believe that reefing is the key to a good safe sail. I added a second downhaul for the main, and a couple of cheek blocks on the sprit. I moved the main halyard, downhauls and snotter to the starboard side of the cockpit. I might add a third downhaul to make a double reefed main easier. I have a single cheekbock on the mizzen sprit.

     

    I like a lively sail with the rail in the water at times, but I want a secure way to reef.

  12. I have a Suzuki 2hp purchased in 1985 for $290 new. Fantastically reliable motor. 2 stroke. I have it on my CS 20. No reverse, but it starts first pull so just get ready, shove off, pull and go.

  13. Thanks, Alan. And thanks for highlighting the donation link to Wayback Machine.

     

    A correction on Rogue Paddler. I referred to him as Ken W., he's actually Wes K. 

     

    Here is another historical question. A CS 20 owner was interested in cruising from Florida to Belize via Cuba a few years back. The forum has good discussion about preparing for a long sail. Does anyone know if the cruise happened?

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