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Everything posted by Reacher

  1. Rob and others, Thanks for your comments. it looks like the BR 20 takes quite a bit of water as ballast. That explains a lot about the boats stability.
  2. Graham, Rob, or anyone with knowledge of the subject, Do you consider the single mast main/jib rig to be equal or better than a cat ketch rig in the conditions Rob encountered. Or vice versa. Or does the Bayraider 20 simply have some advantages at times?
  3. It looks like a good design. I hope you don't mind if I copy it. The tricky detail is to get a seal around the mast for rain. The halyards and other lines being in the way. That's why I thought about using the mizzen as a ridge pole and covering the entire cockpit as necessary. Your design is better to set up.
  4. Jim, what supports the aft edge of the sunshade? I only see the three side to side poles and I assume it is tied to the mast at the forward edge. Thanks.
  5. Thanks for the post, the pictures and the details. I look forward to seeing the project develop.
  6. Acreew, I used thickened epoxy to fair the circumference of the joint between sections. It created a "shoulder" for the wider section to butt up against. After one season no problems. However, the gap under the mast track, which can be filled with a wedge, extends beyond the area I filled with epoxy. When bedding the track in 5200 I just used extra caulk to fill the remaining gap. When installing rivets I skipped a few holes until the caulk hardened then went back and added them. No fiberglass wedge. I hope this helps.
  7. Thanks Joe and Alex for the updates. It would be good if anyone knows of other posts or websites recapping the race. And congratulations to the sailors!
  8. I zip tied the track to the mast, made adjustments until it was straight, then used a sharpie to mark the holes. Fastened the track with stainless steel rivets. A good source is boltdepot.com. They are reasonable, fast, and you can buy any amount. I dipped the rivets in 3m 5200 to try to keep a barrier between the stainless and the aluminum. I also laid the track down on a bead of 5200. Pay attention to deburring the track, rounding the corners on the ends, and getting excess caulk off. I primed the masts with a bright yellow spray, name of zirconium oxide (?). It is common at hardware stores. Then painted with enamel. I didn't paint the section that went down the support tube. The paint is not the best and there are some wear marks. I attached the hardware with stainless steel bolts, using a long stick with a gob of caulk to hold the nut. Then the edge of the stick against the nut to hold it while tightening. There is a description by roguepaddler somewhere on this site. In some cases I used rivets. Remember to put a cap on the top of each mast. Water could get in during a capsize.
  9. To Graham or anyone else familiar with the ICW along the planned route: what percent of sailing v motoring was expected? Friends who have done the Great Loop through the area in larger sailboats describe it as a motor route. I'd like to know if a small sailboat makes it into a sailing route. Thanks.
  10. Staying at the tiller in a small boat hour after hour, day after day, motoring slowly along is a laborious task. Not fun. Add a deadline to that and it is a drudge. In boating, it is much better to have a destination than a deadline.
  11. Thanks for the discussion. The pictures really help. I'm just doing some winter dreaming right now. I think my first tent will be based on Mattp's tarp plus some mosquito netting. For 12 years I sailed a Tartan 34 on the Great Lakes. Good boat and nice cabin, but I always slept in the cockpit at anchor anyway. Ten years ago I had the Tartan at Rock Island State Park on Lake Michigan. There was an open ketch about 20' long tied up at the small breakwater. At dusk the couple that owned it returned from a day ashore and set sail into the sunset moving smoothly and easily in the light evening breeze. A few days later I saw them boat camping, nudged up to a beach. It was a fiberglass boat, probaby a Sea Pearl. I loved the size and the open cockpit.
  12. My CS20 hit the water for trials last summer. Now I'm thinking about cruising. Alternative 1 is a low sleeping compartment boom tent between the masts, with a higher sun/rain shade over the back of the cockpit. Alternative 2 is to use the mizzen mast as a ridge pole for the entire cockpit to create a luxurious space. I'm interested in any comments regarding the practicality of mizzen mast as ridgepole idea. I haven't tried to unstep the mizzen while on the water.
  13. Could you please elaborate on what sailing and handling characteristics led you to increase the centerboard? How would this apply to other cs boats? Thanks.
  14. Is the CS20 staysail the same size as the CS17? If not, does anyone have dimensions for CS20 staysail? Thanks for the help.
  15. I've noticed in videos of a Core Sound 20 and EC22 that the main sheet appears to be doubled. It looks like there is a double block on the clew with two sets of lines. I'm thinking that there is a third sheet block on the thwart with the extra turn of line running from the clew to the block then back up to the clew. Is this correct? Is it for more sheeting purchase or sheeting angle, too? Thanks for any info and explanation.
  16. I don't know if I can post pics from my phone. I have some taken by someone on a different that was interested by the CS 20 rig. I would like to sail with other CS boats to help gauge performance and learn about sail handling and trim. Is there a list of CS owners in upper midwest, specifically Minneapolis area?
  17. If this thread refers to Core Sound 20 #80, the boat has been completed and launched in 2016. It passes every boat it encounters. Thanks to Brad, Jackie and Mike Monies, Graham Byrnes, Rick Pratt and the crew at Farley Boat Works. Special thanks to Clay Terrell (Core Sound 17) for all the tips and guidance. 2 masts and so fast.
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