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Everything posted by Reacher

  1. Thanks for the picture. There aren't enough pics of CS's under way.
  2. I used Prekote and Brightside over MAS epoxy and it worked fine. I waited about 3 weeks, so the cure had probably run its course.
  3. Thanks for the good pictures. I hadn't thought about using the pulleys.
  4. Yes, please post pictures of the reefing system. Are the new sprits to be wishbones, or a single curved piece?
  5. Beautiful. Thanks for posting, it's an inspiration to see what you've done and where you went.
  6. Graham, thanks for responding. There's a Mini Skeeter with an unstayed carbon mast. And 50 plus year old designs that might benefit from updated construction techniques. And speed records to conquer. New territory for the Designer.
  7. This winter I got a good taste of driving iceboats. DN, Nite, stern steerers. This made me wonder about how great it would be to build one from a BandB design. It's another sailing sport where building the craft would be the best way to own one.
  8. A good looking dodger and coaming. With respect to a tie down strap I suggest you use an adjustable nylon strap or cord directly from the aft bow to the cockpit coaming. The aft bow needs quite a bit of tension to keep the top of the dodger taut enough to shed water. Pulling down on the side curtain itself doesn't do the trick in my experience.
  9. Tried to edit previous post but I don't know the process. Anyway, I found a description of the breaker panel on Defender site that says the switches have LEDs. Good to know things have improved in a 2 years.
  10. My objection to a similar Seadog fuse panel was that the illumination lights were not LEDs. So the switch often used more power than the accessory it controlled and gave off too much night light. I ended up drilling out the bulbs with a 1/16 bit to kill the power draw.
  11. The more I sail my CS 20 the more I believe that reefing is the key to a good safe sail. I added a second downhaul for the main, and a couple of cheek blocks on the sprit. I moved the main halyard, downhauls and snotter to the starboard side of the cockpit. I might add a third downhaul to make a double reefed main easier. I have a single cheekbock on the mizzen sprit. I like a lively sail with the rail in the water at times, but I want a secure way to reef.
  12. I have a Suzuki 2hp purchased in 1985 for $290 new. Fantastically reliable motor. 2 stroke. I have it on my CS 20. No reverse, but it starts first pull so just get ready, shove off, pull and go.
  13. I have a CS 20 original version. Just over the border from St. Paul in Wisconsin. Same layout as CS 17 if you are inerested in the overall design and construction.
  14. Thanks, Alan. And thanks for highlighting the donation link to Wayback Machine. A correction on Rogue Paddler. I referred to him as Ken W., he's actually Wes K. Here is another historical question. A CS 20 owner was interested in cruising from Florida to Belize via Cuba a few years back. The forum has good discussion about preparing for a long sail. Does anyone know if the cruise happened?
  15. Last year I was able to access the rogue paddler site and it was valuable to completing my CS 20. But now it leads me to some kind of financial site. Has anyone saved the information and photos so that I can see it? I know the author, Ken W. Is no longer active on this forum. Thanks.
  16. Core Sound 20. Original version. No tabernacle so the masts ride on crutches. Based on earlier responses I bought some pipe insulation today for sprits. Tiller rudder is a tough fit in the cockpit and I don't want it bouncing around while trailering.
  17. Sorry about the disjointed typing. I did a system update on my phone and there are some bugs.
  18. In particular, how to you secure the sprits and tiller/rudder? I try tying the sprits with the sheets to hold them down, but not satisfied. Has anyone developed a clamping system? And I have been leaving the rudder in place, but it seems vulnerable to damage. I appreciate any suggestions.
  19. George, your "other project" is a really big motorboat, or routine maintenance below the waterline. Can't tell. Good luck with it, don't let it interfere with boatbuilding.
  20. i was watching this while waiting for Graham to tell us about his cruise. Reminds me of what a CS can do.
  21. Even the sprits are blue. Good look.
  22. I see where Paul356's through bolts make sense since the load is not really sideways to the sprit. My plans don't show that arrangement, I suppose because the rigging specs have been updated over the years.
  23. I think bolts are overkill. I didn't do it and haven't seen any strain on the fittings. I don't recall the plans calling for bolts. Bolts would be good if you had a fitting that was being pulled directly out of the sprit, not sideways like the cheekblocks.
  24. I made my sprits according to an early spec sheet so they were too short for the updated sail plan I installed. I ended up splicing in extra length plus a few more inches. I haven't noticed a problem with the extra length and it is easy to cut it down. If I were using new sails I think I would try out the longer sprit and then trim it when you determine the exact length you want.
  25. Thanks for posting pictures and videos of the event. It's great to see extended clips of the boats sailing from the vantage point of another boat.
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