Reacher
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Posts posted by Reacher
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Thanks for showing us your trip. It is inspiring to see the boats in action. Going sail camping on Rainy Lake in September is ambitious. And, it looks like you made some good tacks in the channel. Well done.
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Nothing has broken on my CS20 Mk 1. Things that I have stressed the most are the masts and the mizzenmast sprit and rigging.
The masts were stressed when sailing with full roach sails, unreefed, in 20 knot winds with four adults aboard to hold down the weather side. Lots of bend to the aluminum masts.
The mizzen when jibing. The mainsail jibes first and gently because it is shielded by the mizzen. In strong winds the mizzen will really pop across if not sheeted in, something I don’t always do. Again, no damage.
An example of operator error. I tie the centerboard up with a safety line when trailering. I forgot to do it on one occasion and ended up dragging the board a short way, putting a little extra rounded edge on the front corner of the board. The regular line that holds the board up did not hold. Maybe that is a weak link, but still my error.
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Regarding paint, I would skip the Rustoleum marine paint. I tried it. It is inexpensive, fairly tough, but inferior in finish. Consider Interlux Brightside one part polyurethane along with its primer. Sand the primer well and you will be rewarded.
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The masking tape method looks interesting and I might give it a try sometime.
I marked the waterline on a friend’s CS 17 using a laser level and it worked out well. The boat was blocked fore and aft so that the level registered to the design waterline marks on the bow and stern as taken from the plans. Then the boat was leveled side to side. The laser line was traced onto the boat. Then the laser level was raised 2.5 inches and the upper line was traced. The “as painted” line was wider at the transom and noticeably wider at the bow due to the slant of of the hull at those points. If you try this method it is important to trace the laser line onto the hull continuously or with a mark every two inches or less. Otherwise connecting the dots will not give a true curve. And I recommend a self leveling laser (Bosch has a good one for a reasonable price). The laser has a pendulum to compensate if it is set on an uneven surface.
As for waterlines in general. It is standard practice to mark the waterline and bootstripe higher than the actual waterline so the boat looks like it is floating high in the water. And, since the waterline stripe will naturally appear to rise toward the bow and stern (being farther from the eye) some builders actually paint the line closer to the water at the end points so it appears flat to the water. An example of this is building a strip canoe, in which the strips are bent downward slightly toward the ends so the canoe doesn’t look too “smiley” when viewed on the water.
That is my 2 cents. I did not put a waterline stripe on my boat. But every time I take the boat out of the industrial Menominee River I have to wash a waterline stripe off of the boat.
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1 hour ago, Thrillsbe said:
I was told that a tent in the middle of the boat would cause the boat to swing on the anchor badly. I abandoned my plans to do that, and was considering a tent aft of the0 mizzen.. I’m interested in how this works for you.
I haven't been in a windy anchorage with my Core Sound. A few times nudged up to shore, at docks, and in a quiet cove. If swinging was a problem I would try a stern anchor, take a line to shore, or raise enough of the mizzen to stabilize the boat. When observing keel boats at anchor I've seen some that fight it and some that lie head to wind.
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Anders, I have used a makeshift tent that works. I have a tarp that ties to the main mast and the mizzenmast mast. The edges of the tarp tie to eyelets along the rails. Then I open a golf umbrella under the center of the tarp to provide structure and headroom and to shed rain. The umbrella is 6ft in diameter. I also have a CS 20. There is ample room under the tarp for sleeping using a filler board between the centerboard trunk and the starboard seat.
Sometime I might try a second tarp between the transom and the mizzenmast, with another golf umbrella underneath.
I also thought about using the mizzenmast as a ridge pole for a large tent over the whole cockpit, but don’t like lowering the mizzenmast while the boat is in the water.
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According to the article the boat was upright when the CG arrived. It didn't capsize until hit with downwash from the helicopter.
Like everyone else, I send my condolences to the family.
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A long handled rivet tool similar to this worked for me when installing stainless steel rivets in the sail track.
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Regarding the knee separating from the transom. I had an old Thompson 15 lapstrake outboard with a 30 hp motor that had the same condition. That knee was only held by screws, no epoxy. I relocated the failing screw into good wood, used thickened epoxy in the joint, and everything was still holding together when I sold the boat 5 years later. My inclination would be do a similar fix on your boat. Run the saw blade through only where the joint has separated to clean up the surfaces. Then shim/epoxy, or just epoxy, and get a good screw in place. I would leave the rest of the knee untouched because it is holding.
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I’d say no reglassing is necessary. 12 oz cloth is plenty thick. I’d use 80 grit on a random orbit sander to grind down the high spots. Or the wood rasp if that works. Then fill the low spots with bondo. Then sand it smooth, prime and paint. Others might recommend an epoxy based filler for the low spots, but bondo will do just fine in this application. A couple/few hours of sanding will make a huge difference.
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If the rudder is fixed (doesn't swing up?) How do keep the end plate from becoming a weed catcher?
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Steve, good to do the transducer test.
Also, good to learn how to sew. When I built a 22' motorboat 20 years ago I was quoted $5,000 to do a full camper enclosure. That's when I bought a sewing machine. I got so much use sewing bimini tops, dodgers, cushions, rain tarps, boat covers, a screen room, bags of all sorts, and a genoa for a Tartan 34 using a high school gym floor to lay it out.
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Another option is to put mineral oil in the tube and just set, not glue, the transducer in the tube with the oil. You have to cap the tube to keep the oil from sloshing out. Water works, too, but it can freeze. I suggest that you place a baggie of water in the tube, set the transducer on the baggie (no air bubbles) and see if you get a good depth reading. If you do, then proceed with either mineral oil or gluing the transducer down. The water baggie test should show you if the fiberglass you layered in gives a clear shot.
I glued a transducer to the inside of the hull (solid fiberglass) of a Tartan sailboat after doing water baggie tests all over the place to find a good spot. Then I applied the epoxy per the instructions. While the epoxy was curing I got good depth readings, but once it was cured it didn't work. From then on I simply left the transducer (replacement) in a baggie of water and sailed the boat for 12 years without a problem other than to refill the baggie from time to time.
Anyway, my point is to test the fiberglass patch you put in before gluing in the transducer. And, maybe you don't have to glue it at all.
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Nick, congratulations on launching your beautiful boat! Please post more pictures as you finish the details. I like the design tweaks you did and look forward to hearing what you think of them after some sailing.
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Thanks for the response. The shape is eye catching, the lines look just right. I hope to make the messabout next year to see it in person.
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On 10/26/2019 at 5:03 PM, Tom Lathrop said:
Its a Walkabout and may be the only one built..
I'm interested in any more info on this boat. Size, manner of construction, sailing characteristics, etc. Thanks!
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What model is the gray boat pictured on the left side of the four boats? Sleek lines. All of the builders should be proud.
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I’m sorry if I missed a thread on this, but is there a Messabout scheduled for later this month?
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If you look at the photo in the thread CS 20 Mk1 you can see what the halyard on the outside of the block looks like. I think the outside lead gives the best angle to the head of the sail.
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All good thoughts and thanks for them.
I haven’t seen hysteria in the discussion. Just attempts to get information about the effectiveness of masthead floats. I haven’t capsized my 20 and I hope not to. I intend not to. But I want to be prepared for sailing on the Great Lakes.
My questions have been, Will a float work on a CS 20 Mk 1? How big?
Graham answered the first by saying he would definitely have one on a Mark 1 for sailing distances solo. Thanks. As for size, I guess that is still being kicked around.
I will admit that my preparation has consisted primarily of paying attention to conditions and sailing tactics. Keeping the mainsheet at hand, reefing, watching the gybes, managing weight placement, etc. I could do more with equipment hold downs, attaching righting lines, making sure the masts are sealed, and doing a test capsize. I’ve been negligent in all of that. I do have a boarding ladder.
The mast float is new to me after 45 years of sailing. Never used one. That’s why I appreciate this discussion.
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9 hours ago, Paul356 said:
It is a great picture. The symmetry of the sails, the masts, and the battens. And the sunset and the slipstream. Very nice. The float on the mizzenmast wasn’t earning its keep on that evening.
9 hours ago, Paul356 said: -
Thanks, Alan, for the well thought out analysis and illustrations.
Was the lead tip on the cb designed as a means of holding the cb down without needing to cleat it down? Or was it designed to provide righting moment and ballast? My CS20 Mk1 does not have the lead tip but I do use the breakaway cleat.
Could you do an analysis of the CS20 Mk1 with respect to inversion, assuming board down? It would be good to know what size mast float would be needed.
Thanks.
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I saw one of these on a 15’ Mutineer. Light weight and fairly low profile. 8 liters, about 16lbs of floatation. You could put one on each mast. It is made for a luff groove, but could be modified to fit over the slugs on a sail track.
I would like to hear from Alan or Designer how much floatation is needed for the various designs.
Sail Camping in Rainy Lake, MN
in B & B Yachts Forum
Posted
A few years ago I shared shop space with a fellow building aScamp from a kit. He started the boat at a Scamp Camp, which is common. After a couple of years he was trying to finish it. Paul is right in that it is a complicated build compared to a CS15. The builder told me there are a lot of half done Scamps out there that never progressed beyond the Scamp Camp stage.
I can’t comment on Scamp sailing characteristics. But I would strongly suggest that a potential builder should see one, talk to the builder, sail one, and look at the reality of using the boat. In my opinion the CS15 is a better first build and more likely to be completed and sailed.